MC4 Connectors do they come apart??? Few Update Pictures

thesaintlyone

Well-Known Member
Joined
12 Sep 2015
Messages
902
Visit site
So I have fixed the 100w Solar Panel to the top of the hatch garage

Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr

And Fitted Bus Bars and Switch Panel

[url=https://flic.kr/p/RoBw1G]Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr[/URL]

And The Solar Controller

[url=https://flic.kr/p/StNgAg]Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr[/URL]


The Solar Panel has Mc4 Connectors as does the 2 5m extension Cables that I'm waiting to arrive. As I would rather just create a hole big enough for the 4mm wire to pass through the cabin top and thread down to the controller can I take the Mc4 connectors apart and reattach after everything is theaded into the appropriate place

Regards
 
If the connections are inside, you don't need MC4 connectors. So, if yours are sealed ones, *snip them off and use something like Wago connectors. Or, you caan buy replacement MC4 connectors.

*Make sure that snipping them off does not void the warranty on the panel.
 
All the MC4 connectors I have used came apart to enable you to crimp or solder the metal bit to the wire.

Do the shell parts slide forward off the pin, or back up the cable, though? If they have to be threaded onto the cable, they still won't be able to come through the OP's cable-sized hole unless he's equipped to remove and re-fit the pin.

Pete
 
I have similar panels. I stripped off the panel connector cover and fitted a dual core wire and then resealed the box. I then fed this inside using a 90deg deck gland and terminated using bullet connectors so I could remove/replace at a later date.
 
If they are like mine then they don't come apart (intentionally) and are apparently moulded on. I managed to extract the pins from mine, for the same reason as yourself, essentially by brute force and ingenuity. I did split one of them slightly but it still works fine.
I think if I had to do the same again I would just cut off the plugs and just use crimped bullet connectors inside the boat.
 
What you have could be any of the standard plug constructions:
Moulded... not going to come off.
One time assembly... pins are retained by a spring tang and can be extracted with specialist tool.
Rewireable... pins are held by screws or 2 part shells.

Since MC4 are the norm for solar then it makes sense to use the for all connections. If you want to pass through a bulkhead you have 3 options:
Through bulkhead connector/ panel mount connector.
Small hole and grommet, re wire plugs or snip and re do with new.
Bulkhead cable transit, large hole but has seals that fit to the cables.
 
There is another option. If the 5m cables are long enough to reach from the panel to the controller, remove the cover from the panel, take the short cables off and use fit the 5m cables straight to the panel. Snip the MC4 connectors off and wire straight to the controller.

Could have also used 2 core cable and fitted straight to the panel, as post #6, but got a long enough cable to reach the controller without a join. When i did my two new panels i made a two core cable up and wired the two panels in series, so only one hole in the boat instead of four.
 
So I have fixed the 100w Solar Panel to the top of the hatch garage

Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr

And Fitted Bus Bars and Switch Panel

[url=https://flic.kr/p/RoBw1G]Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr[/URL]

And The Solar Controller

[url=https://flic.kr/p/StNgAg]Ohana by Duncan Penfold Photography, on Flickr[/URL]


The Solar Panel has Mc4 Connectors as does the 2 5m extension Cables that I'm waiting to arrive. As I would rather just create a hole big enough for the 4mm wire to pass through the cabin top and thread down to the controller can I take the Mc4 connectors apart and reattach after everything is theaded into the appropriate place

Regards

Don't recommend Chocolate blocks. Better off with heat sealed crimps . For a deck connection we use a water proof Bulgin deck socket & plug with a gland. It lives just under the canopy and has done so for 5 years. No issues. The amperage from panels like these does not really justify heavy wiring. It's just inflexible and tricky to make connections. The upward facing bolts look lethal. Why not go for socket button headed bolts thread downwards. Nice smooth exterior?
 
Last edited:
They are a good reminder not to step on the solar panel! ;)

I would suggest get some 6mm ss rod bend it up to make crash bars like 40 cms high on each side. thread the ends of the rod with a die nut (difficult but doable) then fit a nut to go on top of the panel and another nut on the bottom duplicated each side to mount the panel. I have had small panels in the past mounted on the front hatch and they died from blunt force trauma. good luck olewill
 
Still waiting for the 5m cables to arrive. Were supposed to be here on Thursday. But like the idea of removing the short cables. The bolts are meant to be trimmed down but didnt have my angle grinder on me at the time and wanted an easy way to remove if needed. Having not seen the extension cables yet do they connect to the controller direct. Installed a smaller panel on the old boat but that didnt have mc4 connectors.
 
Still waiting for the 5m cables to arrive. Were supposed to be here on Thursday. But like the idea of removing the short cables. The bolts are meant to be trimmed down but didnt have my angle grinder on me at the time and wanted an easy way to remove if needed. Having not seen the extension cables yet do they connect to the controller direct. Installed a smaller panel on the old boat but that didnt have mc4 connectors.

The cables will simply be a cable with an MC4 connector at one end.

As for those wing nuts, i'd suggest a rethink. Even with the bolts cut off flush they still represent a trip hazard. I can't think why you need a quick release system on that panel, but it would have been just as quick with self tappers. At this point, your best bet is the button head bolts suggested in post #10.
 
How do they come apart. They look like they have a grip to twist but beyond that couldnt tell.

Search for "MC4 spanner" :)

spanner-tech.jpg
 
I think there is a difference between "come apart" as in disconnect, and "come apart" as in reuse the parts in another situation. The ones I have are easily disconnected, preferably using the blue plastic spanners, but cannot be stripped to be used elsewhere because the wire is crimped.
 
Top