Masting "A" frame for Jeanneau SUN 2000

[waterline]

Can anyone please help with my request to copy a masting kit for a small 20' trailer sailer.
I occasionally need to drop the mast on my Jeanneau SUN 2000, and really need a simple masting assembly to help with the job. Jeanneau do actually produce a kit that seems to consist of 3 metal rods, but are asking over £300 which is a bit steep to say the least!

I would ideally like to copy someones assembly (for a consideration you understand), or start from scratch and devise my own, either from metal rods or even timber.

Can anyone help with request, and would it be easy to work out the optimum length of the supports in a home made "A" frame?

Regards

Martin Cotton



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[AndCur]

Re: Masting \"A\" frame for Jeanneau SUN 2000

Two poeple can easily lower my achilles mast with out any problems. We simply use a large pole with a y shaped section at the top to support the mast when its on its way down we also rig a rope to a pulley system to the jib halyard to give more control to mast on the way down. This system is used in our club for most of the boats with out many problems.

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[mickshep]

Re: Masting \"A\" frame for Jeanneau SUN 2000

Hi Martin, My 32' sloop has a tabernacle mounted mast, raising and lowering is a one man job. Is your mast stepped in a tabernacle? I have 2 lengths of pipe which bolt onto the forward chain plates, they angle in and bolt together forming an "A" frame at the forestay which has a purpose made plate allowing the "A" to be attached along with the main sheet without disconnecting any of the rigging. Once this is set up the fore-stay can be slackened and shrouds removed allowing the mast to be lowered without any drama. Mike.

<hr width=100% size=1>"Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me."

 

[bob26]

Re: Masting \"A\" frame for Jeanneau SUN 2000

To drop the 32' mast on my 24 foot boat I simply took two 2.7 m lengths of carcassing timber (its about 3"x1.5" prepared nicely and remarkably cheap from Wickes) and drilled a 8mm hole in each end. I threaded a piece of 6mm rope through each hole and tied each t o the u-bolt for the forward lower shrouds each side with the end of the timber resting on the u-bolt. The other ends I brought together at the bows to create a v-shaped frame. I took two pieces of galvanised steel strapping - the kind used to hold roofs on - about a foot long. I bolted half of each length to the ends of the timbers and bent the bit that stuck out beyond the end of the timber by half the angle of the wooden vee so they were parallel and sticking out the front of the boat. I bolted these together with some sleeving on the bolts to give something to attach the main sheet to. This a-frame took about 10 minutes to make and worked perfectly for a mast that is so heavy I can't lift it alone.

PM me and I'll send you my address for the £300 - or a diagram gratis which will make all this seem rather simpler than it sounds.

I currently use the timbers (bolted together) to make a strong back for the winter cover.

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[William_H]

Material for the A frame can be anything you can find within reason. The load is compressive and not very much I would suggest aluminium tubing. Folks around here use 2 spinnacher poles the fitings go onto the forestay and onto purose fitted rings on the deck level with the mast step or thereabouts.. I would suggest the use of a highfield lever for the forestay and inner forestay to save unscrewing and tightening forestays.
A highfield lever is a set of plates hinged in the middle with a lever so that it can be folded and locked to operating length or unfolded to double the length giving an additional 6 inches of forestay. It's all a bit hadr to explain in words but is simple in reality and can replace a turnscrew (bottle screw)
Here in Fremantle we have to lower masts on quite large boats to access the ocean while motoring under 3 bridges in what is a busy channell. The essential thing is to drop the mast into a crutch as quickly as possible and to support the mast sideways while in transit from the crutch to the upright stays tight position. With a masthead rig if cap shrowds are immediately outboard of the mast step then people use a solid steel extension of the chainplate from the deck up to a point in line with the mast hinge axis. This means the cap shrowds stay tight as the mast is lowered. On my boat we use muscle [power to hold the mast from sideways swing and drop it raise it quickly but that is only a 9 mettre mast Best wishes will

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