Mast truss extraction from solid Polyester Resin

MagicalArmchair

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Background: (see below for a more concise question)

A few months back, after the recommendations from a number of current (http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?405882-Albin-Ballad-rig-tension, thank you michael_w!) and previous Ballad owners who had experienced full truss failure on their Ballads at sea, I inspected my mild steel mast truss with a Endoscope - what I found was shocking to say the least (http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?424045-Mast-Truss), it had nearly rusted through! The risks of this are twofold, one is that the truss can collapse leading to the foot thrashing around the main saloon and potentially unseating the main bulkhead that is immediately forward of the truss, the second is the truss, which is encapsulated in resin, rusting further, expanding, and splitting the front side of the keel open, leading to water ingress, which will lead to more rust and complete failure.

So, it had to come out, I had spoken to a Swedish owner who had replaced his truss with a 316 5mm SS version not encapsulated and he reported that had been an enduring solution, I had separately been speaking to an American owner who had produced plans for an uprated truss. The mast came down last week, I drilled out the SS machine screws Saturday holding the mast foot to the truss, and got to work extracting the mast truss. The truss itself is encapsulated in Polyester resin, after four hours of pounding with a cold chisel and a club hammer to try and break it up I finished the day here:

The mast truss literally fell apart in my hand, vindicating this rather brutal surgery (bear in mind this had to support 3 tonnes of compressive rig load!):
xKGv5y7l.jpg


I had still removed no more that 40% of the polyester resin after four hours of pounding :(:
RhGOs3Dl.jpg


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Question:

So, the question for the great beardy, boaty jedi of the forum:

My technique has followed that of previous Ballad owners of chipping out the polyester resin with a cold chisel, sharpened often and a sledge hammer. For one this technique feels a bit brutal, and I am worried of pushing her over the edge and splitting the front of the keel, and for two, its not desperately effective. Four hours of chipping has removed the easiest bit, I reckon another nine of hours will either break my right arm, my will or finish the extraction. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing solid Polyester resin? I tried my Fein multi-tool to cut relief cuts into the polyester with a combination blade (made for steel/wood, that had cut the GRP of the sole like a hot knife through butter) to make chipping easier, but the resin blunted the blade almost immediately.

To give an idea of how much deeper I need to chip see the following from the American owner who had extract his truss:

The full extracted Truss of the other owner.
14935285518_cf984b8794_o.jpg


The hole I am looking to achieve on the other owners Ballad :
15253416912_3b9c2602d0_o.jpg


So as you can see, I have quite a way to go! :rolleyes:

My ideas are as follows:
1 - use a drill to bore holes into the resin using cobalt drill bits to make chipping easier. Think swiss cheese.
2 - use a diamond cutting disc on the Fein to cut relief channels in the resin.
3 - use a diamond cutting disc on a grinder to cut relief channels in the resin.

I am in the water, so I need to be rather careful - that being said the hull thickness at this point is 1 inch, so I'd have to make quite an error to hole her!
 
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The best way is to use a hot air gun and a vacuum cleaner.Heat up the resin in small areas and immediately remove the softened bit with a chisel.Vacuum the debris and start again.It may sound a bit slow but you'll be amazed at the progress you'll make .As for a new mast heel I would never go to metal again.A block of hardwood set in epoxy putty and fully glassed over with epoxy and resin will take the loads easily and never give trouble .
Being in the water may be a problem but maybe you can get hold of a 2000W gen.
 
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An SDS drill would at least automate the chiselling and save your arms, though I would be concerned at the brutality of that method versus some form of targetted cutting.

I quite like the sound of your swiss cheese idea as long as you can ensure you don't drill into the hull by mistake!

Pete
 
No experience with polyester resin but plenty cutting out concrete and stuff.
Your Swiss Cheese idea or somehow getting some slices into the material would certainly help as as the material may fracture towards the voids created.

However if the material will soften with heat then that may be an even less painless way to go!! I guess that it won’t combust at a critical temperature.
Good luck! it looks like a real challenge but glad you spotted the problem.
 
Thanks for the responses all. I had a reply from EC Fibreglass where I posed them a similar question to above - I added a question about heating too, they responded:

"Hi Mark, Avoid heating it as this will just burn and create dangerous toxic fumes, drilling could help although if there is metal shot in the mix it could be difficult to drill, be careful if trying to drill into this as the drill bit can snag and could cause injury to your wrist. Kind rgds Martin"

Ho hum, there goes another good idea :(. Still, mechanical cutting and drilling sounds like a good idea. I wonder if there is metal shot in there too as I've had some sparks flying as I've been driving the cold chisel into the resin.
 
Thanks for the responses all. I had a reply from EC Fibreglass where I posed them a similar question to above - I added a question about heating too, they responded:

"Hi Mark, Avoid heating it as this will just burn and create dangerous toxic fumes, drilling could help although if there is metal shot in the mix it could be difficult to drill, be careful if trying to drill into this as the drill bit can snag and could cause injury to your wrist. Kind rgds Martin"

Ho hum, there goes another good idea :(. Still, mechanical cutting and drilling sounds like a good idea. I wonder if there is metal shot in there too as I've had some sparks flying as I've been driving the cold chisel into the resin.
I'm sorry but that's not the case.Heating with an electronically controlled air gun will just soften the outer layer of resin and won't burn or create fumes.I've done it countless times.If you're burning the resin you're using too much heat.All you need to do is to back off the gun or regulate the heat to a lower setting.
 
Polyester dust is grim stuff, less grim that smashing away with that club hammer mind you - if I never see that cold chisel and hammer again it'll be too soon.

I'll give the heating method a go 30boat, and michael_w what cutting disc would you recommend? A standard disc or a diamond one? My Dremel has a cutting disc on it too actually, and that would be easier to get into the confined space under and toward the bow end of the truss.
 
I do have my cracking Fein multitool with a diamond cutting disc, which works a bit like a mortar saw - and is easier to plunge and control than my grinder (I thought I had a diamond disc for my grinder too but can't flipping find it in the "man cave").
503744_inset1_xl.jpg

I was thinking about using the Dribble (Dremel) too to get at the parts that are hard to access under the front of the truss (http://www.axminster.co.uk/dremel-35mm-fibreglass-reinforced-cut-off-wheels-pack-5). These discs cut through the bronze skin fitting I removed earlier this month with ease, so hopefully they will not struggle too much with the resin.

That said, I'm only going to use any heavy tools close to the truss and well away from the hull, I don't want to injure my beloved Ballad. :D

And thanks for the confirmation heat works on Polyester resin - its odd for EC fibreglass to get something like this so wrong :confused:, I will of course wear lots of PPE (and have said bucket of water and fire extinguishers handy) .

Thanks for all the responses, great to get advice from the community.
 
Heating GRP in a confined space of a hull is possibly not advisable.
I can understand why ECF spoke against it.
They are a trade place, they will be thinking in HASAWA terms.
OK if you are very careful, but it's easy to create some unpleasant fumes if any of the waste should get on the heat gun nozzle for example.

A sharp carbide drill with a depth stop might be a useful addition to the armoury?
Or even a carbide mill bit in the Dremel, perhaps using something like the grout removal guide to control the depth of cut?

It sounds a hideous job TBH.
 
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