Masonary paint as deck paint

gary3029

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I know this has been covered many times, but have not found answer to this point. I decided to go this route to paint my decks. Went to B&Q and was faced with a problem, they do smooth and textured paint. Does the smooth have just enough roughness to give some grip when walking on the deck? Will the textured stuff be too much, or is this the stuff I need...I don't want the decks to look like artex, but I do want some grip!!
 
You get one or two more hits on the forums search looking for "masonry paint".

Deck paint seems to contain small pieces of something very sharp rather than larger grains of sand, in a normal sort of yacht paint.

I wouldnt be so sure of using a concrete based paint on a deck. Why not go for something like garage floor paint with added non-slip powder. Apart from being a bit green or grey or red .....
 
I have had very good results using single pack polyurathane with silver sand (from garden centre for pence) sprincled into it with a flower shaker. D second coat with well thined paint. One 750ml tin did decks on a 35fter so about 1/4 price of deck paint.
 
Why not buy the smooth paint and add silver sand to obtain the roughness you require. I use silver sand in varnish and it produces an excellent grip
 
I believe that the grit in deck paint is bauxite grit. It has the advantage that it doesn't break up like sand does and it is available on its own. I have used it as deck paint mixed with both yacht enamel and household gloss (the latter in a dinghy) with success.
 
Ive tried conventional boat deck paint (very expensive & only lasted a couple of years), then B&Q textured masonary paint - just as effective and alot lot cheaper.

The last time I painted the decks was 4 years ago and that time I used Wickes cream textured masonary paint, this stuff has lasted the best, cleans up well with a good scrub and easy to apply with a good non slip finish. Reccomend applying with a stiff 1 or 2 " brush in random fashion to obtain a neat finish.

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Good luck.
 
I've been using textured masonary paint, the one with the lighthouse on the tub, for 12 yrs. Works a treat not too rough on bare feet yet plenty of grip. Mask off the area to paint, stipple on a couple of coats then when the masking is removed it looks like a moulded-in non slip area of the deck
 
Why use a masony paint on anyother that has "grit":
- use sugar ... sprinkle on and then wash off with warm water when the paint has dried ... it dissolves and leaves only a non-lip paint effect rather than embedding a course material that eventually comes off and can scratch adjacent areas.

Works a treat ;-))
 
Textured masonry paint has a finer texture than conventional non slip deck paint or sand. I have found it totally effective as a non slip - much nicer for swmbo to sunbathe on, a fraction of the cost of conventional non slip paints, goes on much easier, gives a better finish,and lasts longer.

Smooth masonry paint is -er - smooth, and you will fall off your boat about as quick as you would if you used ordinary gloss.
 
I have used masonry or paving paint as it is known here for years on my fishing vessel.
Topsides, capping, deck etc. The oil based version is better than the water based. I notice that the rescue vessels here use the same paint
 
Appologies if I'm bring old topics back up to the top, how would you prinme the decks.

My decks have been stripped back to the GelCoat so need priming. Having done so searches I was looking at Jotun range of expoy primers and topcoats due to the protection they offer and clear up some of the imperfections.

I now may (for the top coat) use smooth maisonay paint but then mask off areas and use a different shade of textured maisonary paint to simulate non-slip decks (eg treadmaster).

What would be the best primer to use, would it be beneficial to use an Expoy based primer then weathershield on top and will the weatershield take ?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Stu
 
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