Ah you should use the blue 14 day masking. If you use cheapo normal stuff you should remove it after 24 hours and definately don,t let it get wet......however that does not help with your problem, be patient and peel bits as it comes, remove the residue glue with a cloth soaked in loads of white spirit, and I mean loads and loads the wetter the better. Next year use the right stuff.
I had the same problem when I painted my decks with "interdeck" 3 years ago. I tried everything to get the tape off. It had got wet and then baked in the sun. It has taken 3 years to get it off. After a long wet spell, then freezing for some nights, I then found it came off easily with a power spray. There is no easy answer and the makers of the tape Hienkel (I think spelt right) who are based at Winsford, Cheshire, did not have any clue as to how it could be removed. Paul
Had the same prob a couple of days ago when I masked off to seal the deck joint - was getting dark by the time I'd finished and the dew on the boat wet the tape with the result that the paper came off leaving the adhesive behind. I got it all off just by rubbing it hard with the bare hand. The adhesive rolled up on itself leaving not a trace
A Petrol soaked rag works a treat.
With todays safety nazis abounding I can only say its best done with a fag in your mouth, a coke brazier nearby and using a candle to inspect your work with................
There seems to be 2 types of resins commonly used for adhesive tape. Synthetic rubber (SR) and acylic (A). All contain various modifiers.
Tapes with SR adhesive are best removed with kerosene. If neccessary place a kero soaked cloth over the tape and leave for an hour to soften. Also something that is rigid enough to scrape the kerosene-wetted tape and slide over the work without marking it works wonders when used wetted with kerosene.
Tapes with A adhesive are really difficult to remove once they have "set". Acetone helps but it is expensive and dries off too fast. Acetone can attack some plastics so always test in an inconspicious spot first. A 1:1 mixture of methylated spirit and acetone is less effective but doesn't dry as fast. Again, something that is rigid enough to scrape the acetone-wetted tape and slide over the work without marking it followed immediately by wiping with a clean acetone dampened rag works wonders.
Petrol on a rag. Wet the area first, then after a minute or so, scrub with one of those plastic scouring pads - rough one side and sponge the other. All off with ease. There is also a product that i sell and if you wish details , pm me. Petrol should do it though.
Surprised it hasn't come up yet - but it's worth buying a red tin of Evo Stick Remover, which I find will dissolve residual tape glue, labels etc - including masking tape - where surgical, white and meths sprits don't even begin to work.
Rather than white spirit which is slightly oily I would use a diluted acetone such nail polish remover. I have found this very good for removing the sticky remnants of masking tape.
Regards.
Well, at the end of the day, the answer is simple.
FINGERS
yes, just pull it off with your fingers. The 'secret' here is not to leave it on a minute longer than you need to.
Certainly some brands can be left longer than others, but sooner or later it becomes stuck forever. So just whip it off as soon as your paint is touch dry. If you are doing another coat a week later, just re-do the tape.
Yes, I've tried using a hair dryer to warm up the glue and it's remarkably effective - the masking tape peels off like it's supposed to, leaving nothing behind.