There is an ad for one on the Boats and Outboards site. Don't know how old it is. We have one on our 2002 and every engineer who has had anything to do with our engine has been very dismissive of the system, describing it as a cobbled up solution and suggesting that we would be better off with a proper Volvo system. Not very confidence building! The cost to convert that way is prohibitive, so I would be interested if your query produces some contacts either for full systems or spares.
ASAP Supplies used to do them about three years ago, but they are no longer on their product list. However, they might be able to point you in the right direction. A Google search brought nothing, so it all sounds a bit ominous.
The pump is made by Johnson (no relative as far as I know) and are available from ASAP. They cost circa £90.
I have fitted a new one, and all is well (touch wood) but would not want to fit one at sea.
The original pump was many years old and was still working well. The connecors were jammed up against the heat exchanger, and I guess vibration had gradually shattered them.
But am at a loss why the system b*****s the engine when the pump is not working.
I don't have one fitted. I just wanted to try one. I boil kettles for hot water while chucking hot water out of the back of my exhaust. Seems a bit crazy. I suppose the simpler (more secure) way to recover the heat would be to get some form of heat exchanger and run the exhaust injection water through that before it goes into the exhaust. Then the little Yanmar will be conventionally cooled. It just mightn't recover enough heat, though, to be worthwhile. Note to self, when I eventually re-engine, I must get an indirect cooled engine.
My uncle had one of these fitted to his boat (Gibsea Master 96) for years and was in contact with the manufacturers ~I'll ask him for details.
However, it was always a pain in the butt because it would never cool the engine if you pressed it ~ gentle running - no probs, ask it for a bit extra - overheat!
I solved the overheat problem by fitting a new Yanmar 3YM20 ~ great bit of kit, doesn't overheat when pressed and fills the hot water tank in minutes rather than hours.
The main thing I found out was, that with the Martech, you had to be "absolutely" sure that there was no air in the system. There is a "return" pipe on the header tank that puts water back into the top of the tank (1/4 bore pipe), this pipe needs to be flowing at full bore ~ not a dribble.
I could go on but that system was a real pain the the proverbial ~ OK at standard revs but at anything like pressure - forget it.
Thanks. I think there's a consensus here! I'll stick with the kettles until it becomes time to re-engine. Let's hope that's not for a while yet, because I've just done the top end overhaul!