Marinising Ford Endura 1800 (XLD418)

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Hi all,

I have an 1800 endura diesel engine and Marinising kit at home ready to be built. I was wondering if anyone had a guide or photos etc to assist me with the building of the engine. I have had a search but cant find anything

Thanks in advance

Adam
 
Have you tried Lancing Marine? They sell or used to, the marinising parts so might have a guide.
 
Lancing is where the kit came from but have asked several times for some fitting information and so far nothing, other than that they have been excellent help. I can do the majority of it, just wanted to ensure all the hoses and small pipework will be plumbed correctly
 
Hi Adam. I have sent this to you by PM but I thought it worthwhile putting on the forum as there are a number of others who have modified this engine and it may well be that other have better ways of completing this task

Preparation
Starting at the front end of the engine, you would be safer to check the condition of the two drive belts but better still replace them

See if your can get a copy of the Haynes manual for these engines, this is an ebay listing which is current.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-wo...0c67bc3&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=201450175458

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-Fo...175458?hash=item2ee75dbbe2:g:OHgAAOSwYHxWITk4

I checked my timing belt and it looked ok, belt broke after about 10 hours, damaged valves and seats (repair cost £300)

You will need a camshaft timing tool kit to lock the camshaft and the crankshaft. I got mine from ebay but you need to make sure you get the correct one. They go from silly prices down to about £20 but you can actually make the tools out of 6 mm plate and various bolts.

Check the water pump for wear by removing alternator belt and feeling for noise wear etc.

Remove the two forward engine mounts but hold onto the bolts as you need to check if they are imperial (UNC or metric). My engine was a mixture of UNF, UNC and Metric. I am sure these bolts will not be long enough as the aluminium casting is much thicker than the pressed steel car mounts.

If you need bolts and cant get any locally you could try these guys, I used these guys when I was doing a 100% rebuild as I had a hell of a job getting the “Torque to Yield “ bolts for the big ends and crankshaft.

http://www.burtonpower.com

You next need to decide how you are going to change the oil. In my boat the sump plug is very close the hull and it is not possible to catch the oil so I use one of these vacuum pump out things but a fitting onto the sump to a proper pump would be better,

Next, check the flywheel area for signs of oil leaks from the rear crankshaft seal, if it looks wet then I would remove the flywheel and draw the oil seal and replace. Memory a bit hazy here but I seem to recall, I marked the flywheel to the crankshaft to make sure it went back onto the same point on the crankshaft flange in order to keep the balance of the engine.

Remove the existing clutch assembly and dispose of.

The bolts on the flywheel should be replaced as they are “one trip ponies” I am sure they are UNF and you can get them from (or you could do a few years ago)

https://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/search.php?keywords=Foray Motor Company

These bolts like many other are torque to yield or angle bolts in that you first tighten to a small torque as normal, then turn though a specific angle, let them rest and then through a further angle.

Generally check the engine for signs of oil leaks from the OHC cover box etc

If you need gaskets for the engine you can get a set made up by Gaskets Direct http://direct-gaskets.co.uk/

You need to sort out the vacuum pump which is driven by the last cam on the camshaft. This pump serves no purpose in a marine engine so it can be removed but you need to buy/make a planking plate. The other item you have to modify is the vacuum pump operating rod as it is too long to leave in place but (I am sure) there is an oil lube hole so I cut the rod down to size so that it could fill the hole but not impinge on the camshaft or the blanking plate. I also fitted a drain pipe to allow oil from the end of the end of the engine.

In the same area as the vacuum pump sits the thermostat housing. There is a bleed off pipe here which will need to be connected to the Exhaust manifold so make sue that is ok and has not been damaged.

Remove the existing bellhousing

Remove the existing exhaust manifold and sort out what you need in the way of an inlet manifold. (On the 1.6, the existing manifold can be reused) It maybe that you can use the existing manifold or modify it so that it does not foul the Bowman water cooled manifold.

So that is the engine preparation completed.

Fitting marinizing components,

Fit L and R front legs using longer bolts (may be UNC)

Fit damper plate to the flywheel in place of the original clutch. If you are going to use a Hurth / ZF / Mechanical gearbox, I would also fit a flywheel mass to reduce torsional vibration and also give a nice slow tickover speed. In my case, the brand new Hurth gearbox made a dreadful clattering noise due to torsional vibration but that was cured by fitting the flywheel mass but you will need longer bolts. By the way, the correct order is flywheel, damper plate, mass. This is to ensure the damper plate is tight against the flywheel.

Use torque setting for bolts as per manual and I would use star or spring washers and a wee dab of loctite.

Fit the rear bellhousing and fit the four antivibration mounts which will help to stabilise the engine while you are working on the rest. Leave the bolts out for the starter motor at the moment.

With the inlet manifold sorted out and fitted, bolt on the Bowman water cooled exhaust manifold and the exhaust water injection bend.

The next task is to plumb the fresh water cooling circuit and this will depend on the extent of the kit you have. In my case, I made the pipes up from 25 mm copper pipe with soldered elbows and 25 mm rubber hose You could use Yorkshire compression elbows if you don’t fancy soldering but they are a bit clumsy. Essentially you are making a circuit to take water from the outlet of the water pump, round the front of the engine to the front lower connection of the Bowman heat exchanger / manifold.

You then have to fabricate a return pipe to the engine from the outlet pipe at the rear of the manifold again in 25 mm copper or as I did use a long flexible bellows hose. The return water is fed back into the engine via the thermostat housing. There is also a bleed line requires to be fitted from the small spigot to a small connection on the front of the manifold. This pipe is to reduce air locks and ease filling with coolant.

The next task is to fit the seawater pump to the front of the engine (I hated this idea so I fitted an extra pulley and drove a pump via a belt)

The last part of the water system is to take run a rubber pipe from the outlet of the seawater pump to the heat exchanger matrix and from the matrix to the water injection elbow.

With the water system completed, you need to go round the engine and seal off any other water cooling spigots such as heater connections. If you have room may be an idea to fit small inline valves so you could tap in to a calorifier at some time in the future with draining you engine.

You can now fit the starter motor , alternator and gearbox and just add water 

If you are looking for odds and end, you could try these guys

http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/E...ssets/common/downloads/Contents Page.indd.pdf

Here is the engine in my boat running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQa2NgkK4-E
 
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