Mariner 2M 6A1 Service/owners manual.

[mulla]

First off, I know that there are old threads for this topic but all the links, etc are dead and I don't want to bump.

I'm looking for a service/owners manual for my Mariner 2M 6a1, serial indicates that it's made in 1989.
I have found exploded view diagrams, but some of the older threads have links to service manuals that I can't find.
I also appreciate any other related info on this engine. I've been thinking of emailing the company but I honestly don't know where to send it, Yamaha or mercury?

 

[VicS]

You should be able to find the Operation and Maintenance manual in the Brunswick Marine Download center

http://download.brunswick-marine.com/download/preparesearch;jsessionid=ds906qmljl4re?lang=EN&mod=4

It is not always easy to find the right one and best not to limit the search to a particular year but rather browse the list until you find the right one. It should be there somewhere

You should also be able to find a non OEM service manual ( Seloc) which covers you engine on the Boatinfo website

Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years!

The best place for exploded diagrams and parts lists is the Boats.net website (Look at the Mercury list)

Boats.net: Outboard Motors, OEM Marine Parts, Boats for Sale

 

[mulla]

You should be able to find the Operation and Maintenance manual in the Brunswick Marine Download center

http://download.brunswick-marine.com/download/preparesearch;jsessionid=ds906qmljl4re?lang=EN&mod=4

It is not always easy to find the right one and best not to limit the search to a particular year but rather browse the list until you find the right one. It should be there somewhere

Been looking at that page but haven't found one that fits the engine, some older threads referenced a file on that page that was named Mariner 2-4-5 but it's no longer there

You should also be able to find a non OEM service manual ( Seloc) which covers you engine on the Boatinfo website

Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years!

There is one manual that covers a 2.2 hp partly but that's as close as i get.

 

[VicS]

Oh rats . They seem to have edited the list of manuals that are available. The manual for the 2.5 no help ?

This service manual covers the 2 hp Yamaha any good ? http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/yamaha/manuals/1984-1996yamaha.html#/0

 

[mulla]

Oh rats . They seem to have edited the list of manuals that are available. The manual for the 2.5 no help ?

This service manual covers the 2 hp Yamaha any good ? http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/yamaha/manuals/1984-1996yamaha.html#/0

The 2.5 is somewhat close but still a bit off. I have another Yamaha manual that's pretty close to https://www.boatdesign.net/attachments/lit-18626-04-51_516-pdf.98045/

Thanks for your help in searching, I've been working on changing the impeller but so far I've managed fine with only the exploded diagram.
Now I'm looking for a good place to order some parts from. I've found the impeller for a reasonable price but the prop shaft oil seal is another story, so far I've found it in one store in the USA.

Is there any good parts suppliers in Europe you can recommend?

 

[VicS]

.
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Is there any good parts suppliers in Europe you can recommend?

You don't say what part of Europe you are in but I buy parts when needed from Oakley Marine :: OutBoards-Direct :: who claim to be able to supply parts worldwide

They are agents for both Mariner and Yamaha, so should be able to help.

Have the full details , including the serial number, handy if you contact them

 

[mulla]

You don't say what part of Europe you are in but I buy parts when needed from Oakley Marine :: OutBoards-Direct :: who claim to be able to supply parts worldwide

They are agents for both Mariner and Yamaha, so should be able to help.

Have the full details , including the serial number, handy if you contact them

I'm in Sweden but the few companies that operate from here have really limited parts catalogs so I'm basically looking for suppliers in Europe

 

[mulla]

While having the gear housing off to change impeller I figured I should flush out the rest of the cooling ducts, so I pumped water through the water pipe that goes up the inside off column.
After pumping for 2-3 seconds water started pouring down the column, shouldn't the water exit from the exhaust hole further up on the column?
If this is normal wouldn't that mean that the column would fill up with used cooling water after running the engine for some time?

Edit: figured out that the cooling water flushes out in the bottom of the column where the gear housing meets the column.

 

[VicS]

While having the gear housing off to change impeller I figured I should flush out the rest of the cooling ducts, so I pumped water through the water pipe that goes up the inside off column.
After pumping for 2-3 seconds water started pouring down the column, shouldn't the water exit from the exhaust hole further up on the column?
If this is normal wouldn't that mean that the column would fill up with used cooling water after running the engine for some time?

Edit: figured out that the cooling water flushes out in the bottom of the column where the gear housing meets the column.

Almost all of the water leaves with the exhaust, under water where you dont see it
If that motor has a"tell tale" you should get a stream of water from there. This normally tells you that the pump is pumping but I am not sure if that motor has one .... Need to read the owners manual

When running you should also see a few droplets or a mist blown out of the exhaust back pressure relief hole on the back of the exhaust housing ( column)

 

[alahol2]

This document has a photo of the water channels at the top of the leg. If the bolts come out it's relatively easy to drop the leg. Bit of a fiddle to get it back together again.
Mariner 2M impeller replacement

 

[mulla]

Almost all of the water leaves with the exhaust, under water where you dont see it
If that motor has a"tell tale" you should get a stream of water from there. This normally tells you that the pump is pumping but I am not sure if that motor has one .... Need to read the owners manual

When running you should also see a few droplets or a mist blown out of the exhaust back pressure relief hole on the back of the exhaust housing ( column)

Thanks for clarifying this, it's my first outboard engine and I thought that the water stream that you see on bigger engines was the only cooling water outlet.

This document has a photo of the water channels at the top of the leg. If the bolts come out it's relatively easy to drop the leg. Bit of a fiddle to get it back together again.
Mariner 2M impeller replacement

First off big thanks for making the pdf tutorial

If you don't mind I have some questions:
Do you still have the "Mariner 2-4-5" manual that was mentioned in one of the older threads?
How much throttle/choke do you have when starting the engine?
When I close the choke the engine tends to rev up a bit, is this normal?
When the engine was cold and not started, gas would flow out of a little hole above the carburetor bowl when i opened the fuel shutoff below the tank. Is this normal?
The little "needle" on the carb that gets lifted up and down buy the throttle lever does not go all the way in when lowering the throttle lever to a minimum, is this a sign that i should clean the carb?

 

[VicS]

Thanks for clarifying this, it's my first outboard engine and I thought that the water stream that you see on bigger engines was the only cooling water outlet.


First off big thanks for making the pdf tutorial

If you don't mind I have some questions:
Do you still have the "Mariner 2-4-5" manual that was mentioned in one of the older threads?
How much throttle/choke do you have when starting the engine?
When I close the choke the engine tends to rev up a bit, is this normal?
When the engine was cold and not started, gas would flow out of a little hole above the carburetor bowl when i opened the fuel shutoff below the tank. Is this normal?
The little "needle" on the carb that gets lifted up and down buy the throttle lever does not go all the way in when lowering the throttle lever to a minimum, is this a sign that i should clean the carb?

Outboards usually need full choke and partly open throttle to start from cold............. but it is a question of experimenting to find the best settings

If the choke is closed when the engine is warmed up a bit Id expect it to die. Speeding up suggest that it is running weak and may need a carb clean

Fuel flowing out of the vent indicates that it is flooding due to the float needle valve not closing properly. Maybe just a speck of dirt, or the float is sticking, or someone has messed with the float height or the needle valve is worn. but you'd expect this to make it run rich

The throttle valve does not close all the way, or the engine would stop . The idle speed adjustment should control this

You might find the exploded parts diagrams at Mercury 2HP Outboard Parts for Serial No. 6A1-000101 & Up | Boats.net useful

 

[QBhoy]

Hi
It’s a Yamaha engine that. Same as the old 2hp Yamaha.
there isn’t a tell tale on it.

hope that helps.

 

[alahol2]

If you don't mind I have some questions:
Do you still have the "Mariner 2-4-5" manual that was mentioned in one of the older threads?
How much throttle/choke do you have when starting the engine?
When I close the choke the engine tends to rev up a bit, is this normal?
When the engine was cold and not started, gas would flow out of a little hole above the carburetor bowl when i opened the fuel shutoff below the tank. Is this normal?
The little "needle" on the carb that gets lifted up and down buy the throttle lever does not go all the way in when lowering the throttle lever to a minimum, is this a sign that i should clean the carb?

The only manual I've got is the owner's/operator's manual. It doesn't really tell you much and it's unobtainable, on the boat, at the moment.

Starting can be a slightly hit and miss affair. Assuming the engine hasn't been run that day, I start off with the choke turned on fully and the throttle at the 'start' mark on the casing (about 40mm from bottom, just less than half full travel).
If that doesn't start then I will gradually reduce the amount of choke until it does.
As soon as it fires I will reduce choke gradually until it will run without. By gradually I mean only about 10 secs or less.
When the choke is turned off, the engine may rev up or down, I suspect it depends on the initial throttle setting which is not very precise.
If the engine has been run that day, no choke is required and it usually starts easily.
When stopping I always turn off the fuel and let the engine run to a stop (unless I'm going to use it again within the next hour).

I do, quite often, find some fuel below the casing at the top of the leg. It must be 'overflow' from the carburettor, I ignore it.

We use our engine irregularly and infrequently so starting always seems a bit of a black art that I have not yet mastered. Luckily I usually manage to get it started without too much trouble.

PS agree there's no telltale.

 

[mulla]

Outboards usually need full choke and partly open throttle to start from cold............. but it is a question of experimenting to find the best settings

If the choke is closed when the engine is warmed up a bit Id expect it to die. Speeding up suggest that it is running weak and may need a carb clean

Fuel flowing out of the vent indicates that it is flooding due to the float needle valve not closing properly. Maybe just a speck of dirt, or the float is sticking, or someone has messed with the float height or the needle valve is worn. but you'd expect this to make it run rich

The throttle valve does not close all the way, or the engine would stop . The idle speed adjustment should control this

You might find the exploded parts diagrams at Mercury 2HP Outboard Parts for Serial No. 6A1-000101 & Up | Boats.net useful

Sounds like a carb clean and adjustment is what i need to do
What I called "needle" in the post above post is actually called throttle plunger and when looking at the carb it really feels like it should follow the accelerator arm the whole way down.
When the engine is running i can nudge it with my finger and move it all the way down without the engine dying.

Hi
It’s a Yamaha engine that. Same as the old 2hp Yamaha.
there isn’t a tell tale on it.

hope that helps.

Yep the yamaha manual is very close to this one.

The only manual I've got is the owner's/operator's manual. It doesn't really tell you much and it's unobtainable, on the boat, at the moment.

Starting can be a slightly hit and miss affair. Assuming the engine hasn't been run that day, I start off with the choke turned on fully and the throttle at the 'start' mark on the casing (about 40mm from bottom, just less than half full travel).
If that doesn't start then I will gradually reduce the amount of choke until it does.
As soon as it fires I will reduce choke gradually until it will run without. By gradually I mean only about 10 secs or less.
When the choke is turned off, the engine may rev up or down, I suspect it depends on the initial throttle setting which is not very precise.
If the engine has been run that day, no choke is required and it usually starts easily.
When stopping I always turn off the fuel and let the engine run to a stop (unless I'm going to use it again within the next hour).

I do, quite often, find some fuel below the casing at the top of the leg. It must be 'overflow' from the carburettor, I ignore it.

We use our engine irregularly and infrequently so starting always seems a bit of a black art that I have not yet mastered. Luckily I usually manage to get it started without too much trouble.

PS agree there's no telltale.

I see, if you get it or find a pdf copy feel free to shoot me a pm.
Do you know what spark plug is intended for this engine? In one of the older threads, NGK B5HS was mentioned but mine came with a BRISK NR14C which I suspect isn't the correct one since it was quite dark/sooty.
Lastly what fuel mix do you run? I've tested it with 50:1 and it seemed fine, I just want to double-check.

 

[VicS]

Sounds like a carb clean and adjustment is what i need to do
What I called "needle" in the post above post is actually called throttle plunger and when looking at the carb it really feels like it should follow the accelerator arm the whole way down.
When the engine is running i can nudge it with my finger and move it all the way down without the engine dying.........................

Do you know what spark plug is intended for this engine? In one of the older threads, NGK B5HS was mentioned but mine came with a BRISK NR14C which I suspect isn't the correct one since it was quite dark/sooty.
Lastly what fuel mix do you run? I've tested it with 50:1 and it seemed fine, I just want to double-check.

The Spring should push the throttle valve down ... The reason for it not going down without a nudge needs investigating

The Brisk NR14C is equivalnt to NGK BR7HS or BR8HS.
The correct plug is either B6HS or B5HS depending on the age. SN# M-011601 and above = B5HS
I dont know the correct gap.

5 is the hottest of those mentioned, 8 is the coolest. R in the number denotes a resistor for radio interference suppression. Your Brisk plug is too cool, which probably explains the fouling.

50:1 fuel mix ( using a TC-W3 certified oil) is always a safe mix for all two stroke outboards since the mid 1960s. Best choice even if 100: 1 is specified

 

[alahol2]

Vics' got it.
B5HS at 20 thou (0.5mm).
Engine is specified at 100:1 but I run it at 50:1 or thereabouts.

 

[alahol2]

This is the Yamaha manual, virtually the same as the one that I've got...
Yamaha/Mariner 2 Owners manual

 

[mulla]

The Spring should push the throttle valve down ... The reason for it not going down without a nudge needs investigating

The Brisk NR14C is equivalnt to NGK BR7HS or BR8HS.
The correct plug is either B6HS or B5HS depending on the age. SN# M-011601 and above = B5HS
I dont know the correct gap.

5 is the hottest of those mentioned, 8 is the coolest. R in the number denotes a resistor for radio interference suppression. Your Brisk plug is too cool, which probably explains the fouling.

50:1 fuel mix ( using a TC-W3 certified oil) is always a safe mix for all two stroke outboards since the mid 1960s. Best choice even if 100: 1 is specified

Vics' got it.
B5HS at 20 thou (0.5mm).
Engine is specified at 100:1 but I run it at 50:1 or thereabouts.

Thx guys, not often you encounter such helpful people on the internet
I think I will get the impeller and the correct plug and do a test run to see how the engine behaves before I get too involved with the carburetor.

 

[mulla]

How big tolerances are acceptable regarding impellers? The original one I pulled from the mariner has an inner diameter of 10.85mm and the shaft has a diameter of ~10.95mm so the impeller has a snug fit around the shaft.
When looking at impellers on different websites quite many claim that it's equal to the 80395M which is the original part number but they list an inner diameter of 11.5mm, is such a big difference acceptable?