KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
Is there really any benefit in paying almost twice the price for 'seacock grease' or 'winch grease', or would I be just as well with common or garden grease (e.g. Castrol LM or whatever) from Halfrauds?
Marine or Automotive Grease?
- Thread starter KenMcCulloch
- Start date
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Have a close look at the Castrol site for their datasheets on marine oils and greases.
The tech specifications are way beyond motoring ones.
sea greases
Declaration of interest: ex BP. Some brand loyalty still left !
The tech specifications are way beyond motoring ones.
sea greases
Declaration of interest: ex BP. Some brand loyalty still left !
Niander
Well-Known Member
Id say lots of things are ott and quite often a way of fleecing pll
Oldhand
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Declaration of interest: ex BP. Some brand loyalty still left !
[/ QUOTE ]
Well then, why didn't BP ever package BP OG (open gear) grease in small contianers to be sold at swindelries? One of the best waterproof and high temperature greases availble if it is still made.
Declaration of interest: ex BP. Some brand loyalty still left !
[/ QUOTE ]
Well then, why didn't BP ever package BP OG (open gear) grease in small contianers to be sold at swindelries? One of the best waterproof and high temperature greases availble if it is still made.
Gunfleet
Well-Known Member
Bearing in mind how long it lasts, I think using Blake's Seacock Grease on Blake's Seacocks is worth it. I'll only buy a couple of tubes in my life. Ditto with winch grease. Everywhere else I use car grease.
DavidGrieves
Well-Known Member
Hi
Somebody might correct me but I think that some grease might be graphite (or simmilar) based which may cause a galvanic reaction, could corode valuble metal parts?
Somebody might correct me but I think that some grease might be graphite (or simmilar) based which may cause a galvanic reaction, could corode valuble metal parts?
Spyro
Well-Known Member
Seacock grease does need to be a particular type not necessarily blakes but it does have to be a thick stringy viscosity. I have some that does the job very well it's green but I don't know from which manufacturer it came.
Billjratt
Well-Known Member
I came home with a shelf-full of greases from the days when windows consisted of holes in cards (real computers for those who missed the 60's) I'm currently using esso terecot track and roller grease( I think ) in the rudder and propshaft seals because its the thickest, blackest (apart from molycote), stickiest grease I can find. When that tin's finished I'll go for the next thickest etc. Anyone tried tallow?
LittleShip
Well-Known Member
As previously stated, there is a world of difference between marine and automotive greases.
I now use this product wherever I can, stern gland, seacocks and the electrical spray protection one too.
www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm
I have no complaints and recommend it to everybody.
No interest other than a customer.
Tom
I now use this product wherever I can, stern gland, seacocks and the electrical spray protection one too.
www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm
I have no complaints and recommend it to everybody.
No interest other than a customer.
Tom
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
If you want a bit of fun, it's worth having a look at this site, which talks about grease selection for industrial plant. Although it's technical, some points shine through . . .
First, yacht applications are very undemanding compared to other fields. We're talking low loads, low speeds (if any!) and low temperatures.
But, for yachts, some additives are important; corrosion inhibitors, rust inhibitors and 'demulsibility', a quality related to water rejection.
To answer your question, most of these additives can be found in vehicle applications - greases for trailers etc.
Just look for the magic words on the tin 'water resistant', and ignore brand names.
First, yacht applications are very undemanding compared to other fields. We're talking low loads, low speeds (if any!) and low temperatures.
But, for yachts, some additives are important; corrosion inhibitors, rust inhibitors and 'demulsibility', a quality related to water rejection.
To answer your question, most of these additives can be found in vehicle applications - greases for trailers etc.
Just look for the magic words on the tin 'water resistant', and ignore brand names.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Greases may be mineral or synthetic oil based, compounded with soaps that turn them into greases.
Calcium-based soaps are the most waterproof and will act very well in underwater applications such as seacocks. They are specified for high load, low speed duties. I have a very old tin of Castrol calcium based waterpump grease, probably not made any longer, that I use for seacocks.
Lithium soaps are used for the majority of purposes in the automotive world, such as wheel bearings. They resist water quite well and I have used greases of this type for my stern gland for many years.
Synthetic greases are usually compounded with lithium soaps. They are excellent for water resistance below the surface but cost more than hydrocarbons. Winch grease is a silicone version of these. Some also contain PTFE.
Any of these may have additives, particularly molybdenum disulphide, that improve load carrying ability (extreme pressure, or EP.) These are used mainly for steel on steel applications, so probably a waste of money for marine use, although they are sold in chandlers as 'high performance' grease.
Calcium-based soaps are the most waterproof and will act very well in underwater applications such as seacocks. They are specified for high load, low speed duties. I have a very old tin of Castrol calcium based waterpump grease, probably not made any longer, that I use for seacocks.
Lithium soaps are used for the majority of purposes in the automotive world, such as wheel bearings. They resist water quite well and I have used greases of this type for my stern gland for many years.
Synthetic greases are usually compounded with lithium soaps. They are excellent for water resistance below the surface but cost more than hydrocarbons. Winch grease is a silicone version of these. Some also contain PTFE.
Any of these may have additives, particularly molybdenum disulphide, that improve load carrying ability (extreme pressure, or EP.) These are used mainly for steel on steel applications, so probably a waste of money for marine use, although they are sold in chandlers as 'high performance' grease.
earlybird
Well-Known Member
I seem to remember once reading that lithium based greases can react and harden in contact with seawater, so the Castrol LM that you mention may be best avoided for marine applications. Duckhams Keenol, a white grease, would probably be ok if you can get it, but a tub of Blakes grease will last a lifetime. Don't put a thick grease in your winches, otherwise the pawls will gum up if it gets on them. Again, the minimal usage makes a tube of branded winch grease quite cheap in the long run, especially if you avoid Lewmar.
Addendum:- I've just looked at an old tub of Keenol in my garage, it says it is lithium based, so probably no better or worse than castrol LM.
Addendum:- I've just looked at an old tub of Keenol in my garage, it says it is lithium based, so probably no better or worse than castrol LM.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
<< Don't put a thick grease in your winches, otherwise the pawls will gum up if it gets on them. >>
If you look at the Lewmar site under maintenance, you will see that pawls should be lubricated with oil, bearings with grease.
If you look at the Lewmar site under maintenance, you will see that pawls should be lubricated with oil, bearings with grease.
earlybird
Well-Known Member
True, that's why I added the words "if it gets on them". Anyway, who reads the instructions!! They also say to service 2 or 3 times per season, hands up who does that. I mentioned the point to perhaps deter someone spreading thick automotive type grease over their winch internals. Maybe this was unneccessary, but the effect of a slipping winch in a good breeze can be quite nasty.