WoodyP
Well-Known Member
Not at all. Credit where it's due.
So his my updated drawing. I have ordered my bits for phase 1, being the high current connections excluding the windlass. I need to examine the existing installation before I tackle that.
Thank you all, in particular Paul.
View attachment 124416
The positive busbars are looking a bit "clunky". Would be better off with just one.
If you put the windlass "fuse" before the isolator, it also protects the isolator. Rather than a fuse, a thermal breaker would be better, as you can reset it if the windlass gets overloaded (snagged anchor etc). If the fuse is in an awkward to get at location, fit the thermal breaker in a convenient place, correctly sized, and fit a larger fuse close to the battery.
Yeah, i know, that's how I had it but those 8 post 10mm are expensive, this way I save £250, which is a lot of beer tokens.
I don't understand why the thin blue connections go from the shunt to battery #3 and #4 positive?