Marine Elecitircal Question - How should I connect my starter battery negative so as not to avoid the shunt

So his my updated drawing. I have ordered my bits for phase 1, being the high current connections excluding the windlass. I need to examine the existing installation before I tackle that.

Thank you all, in particular Paul. :)

PatienceWiring.jpg
 
So his my updated drawing. I have ordered my bits for phase 1, being the high current connections excluding the windlass. I need to examine the existing installation before I tackle that.

Thank you all, in particular Paul. :)

View attachment 124416

The positive busbars are looking a bit "clunky". Would be better off with just one.

If you put the windlass "fuse" before the isolator, it also protects the isolator. Rather than a fuse, a thermal breaker would be better, as you can reset it if the windlass gets overloaded (snagged anchor etc). If the fuse is in an awkward to get at location, fit the thermal breaker in a convdenient place, correctly sized, and fit a larger fuse close to the battery.
 
The positive busbars are looking a bit "clunky". Would be better off with just one.

Yeah, i know, that's how I had it but those 8 post 10mm are expensive, this way I save £250, which is a lot of beer tokens.

If you put the windlass "fuse" before the isolator, it also protects the isolator. Rather than a fuse, a thermal breaker would be better, as you can reset it if the windlass gets overloaded (snagged anchor etc). If the fuse is in an awkward to get at location, fit the thermal breaker in a convenient place, correctly sized, and fit a larger fuse close to the battery.

I have mapped it out how it is currently. I believe the fuse is a thermal thingy but the markings have worn off. I plan to evaluate and correct that in phase 2.

Thanks Paul :)
 
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