Making a rigging schedule - some advice on replacement intervals

Rosie1963

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Ipswich
ramblinginrosie.blogspot.co.uk
I know some on here are supremely organised and reduce the costs of replacing rigging in one go by replacing on a rolling programme.

Now I have never been this organised but have decided that the pain of paying the thousands (yup- i've had a quote) in one fell swoop is outweighed by at least attempting to make my own programme. The boat is a 1960's cruiser with a LOT (some could argue over-engineered) amounts of rigging. This is not a high performance yacht with a highly tensioned rig. Her last survey was in 2014 and all the stainless rigging was electronically tested and passed without any flaws. The surveyor seemed happy with that. But it is now getting on a bit with much of the stainless being of 2001 vintage (apart from the lower forwards). I was thinking of doing it in pairs every year, starting this year with the forestays (most wear). What do others think? Too infrequent?

Cap shrouds x2
Intermediate shrouds x2
Lower fwd shrouds x2 (replaced 2017)
Masthead forestay (in foil)
Inner forestay (hanked)
Backstays x2
Running backstays x2
 
You are overthinking the "problem". First there is no absolute life of SS rigging, although the most quoted figure is 10 years - with no empirical evidence to support it. Even on this basis your rigging is "young". General rules of thumb are that the harder you stress the rig, for example lots of sailing in strong wind conditions the more likely it is to fail. However "failure" is usually unpredictable and occurs at vulnerable points such as fittings and where wire enters swages etc. rather than the wire itself breaking.

Therefore there is no logic to having a pre planned schedule of replacement. It is sensible to carry out regular checks to identify potential failures such as corrosion, broken strands or cracks in fittings followed by replacement of offending items. If you are really risk adverse you might replace the whole rig at a period you feel comfortable rig accepting the fact that you are throwing away wire and fittings that have many years' life in them. There is no reason why any particular wire should have a predictable life than is any different from another so no logic in replacing one before or after another.

BTW tension has little effect on life of wire other than undertensioned is likely to fail more than properly tensioned. Have a look at the Selden guide to setting up your rig and follow the guidance.
 
On the '10 year' point - I appreciate it is not an empirical 'bon mot' - every year my mast is lowered and used as a ridge pole for the all-over cover. So the standing rigging only 'does the job' for six months. Would it be logical to last longer than left up. During the wind I have noted the vibration, even shaking, as the wind rushing through a modern boatyard which I have instinctively disliked in respect to the wear on rigging. Or indeed, is it the opposite? Taking it down and putting it up year after year brings the higher likelihood of damage.

Incidentally I have staggered replacement - forestay on purchase of roller reefer, back stays, then uppers, then lowers. The Surveyor was happy. And ditto OP, she is over-engineered and hardly high tensioned.
 
Well thanks for that. Maybe I am overthinking it but I’m also trying to avoid a massive lump sum bill in the future. Maybe an idea is to replace just one of each on a long term rota so at least over time I’ll have a spare ready to go to replace any dodgy looking wire(s).
 
Well thanks for that. Maybe I am overthinking it but I’m also trying to avoid a massive lump sum bill in the future. Maybe an idea is to replace just one of each on a long term rota so at least over time I’ll have a spare ready to go to replace any dodgy looking wire(s).

Doing it that way may avoid a bug bill in one go but inevitably means you are replacing items with plenty of life left in them so in the long run (assuming you are keeping the boat) it will cost you more with no increase in "safety".

It is a fact of life with rigging that you cannot predict failure other than by regular inspection to identify potential weakness. So replacement will almost certainly be just a result of judgement that it is getting old, or demanded by insurance, or perhaps as part of preparation for some adventurous voyaging.

Suggest to deal with the big bill you pay into a sinking fund (a ring fenced savings account) the amount you would budget to replace one pair a year so you will build up a fund to replace everything in one go. Or just accept that if you are a long term boat owner you will periodically get big bills - new sails, new rigging, update electronics, new engine etc etc. The great thing is that most of these replacements are discretionary - that is you can plan them so they don't come as shock.

That is how I have managed my 1960s boat over the 37 years I have owned it. Two engine changes, two major refits, new sails, complete rewire etc.
 
Tillergirl's case is like some friends who kept a C&C 30 on the Great Lakes. Due to the winter ice, the boats where ashore for the winter, with the rig down and stored. Talking about insurance and rigging life, they payed no attention to the 10 yr idea, as it was not stressed for half the year.
 
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