Lube'ing the lift keel worm drive

ChiPete

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Hi all,

Hope someone may be able to help. I need to lubricate the worm drive on the lift keel on my Benny Oceanis 323. It's making all sorts of noises and is feeling quite 'tight' especially when lifting it up.

Today I got the table out of the way and undid the two screws holding the top of the drive to the keel well. I expected to be able to run the drive off the end of its thread with the keel lowered and then take it out, grease it and re-insert it to the keel thread.

The worm drive won't come out of the thread however, and I'm stuck for ideas as to how to lube it in situ. Has anyone with the same setup managed to lubricate this mechanism and if so, how please?!

Thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers,
Pete
 
Do ensure the 'stiffness' is caused by the mechanism; I've known lift keels jammed by small stones or dried mud in the slot / casing, too much paint will do it too, as will rust flakes - the problem with lift keels, and I've had one for over 3 decades, is that the actual plate often goes unmaintained.

I keep my 22' boat on high trestles to allow lowering the keel each winter, but with larger boats this becomes a bit of a project.

If it is the worm drive I'd strongly recommend silicone grease, not the traditional axle stuff; in case you're not aware, this must be kept away from your eyes.
 
Does yours have the male thread part on top and the female part below i.e. attached to the keel, or the other way up?
On my First 29, the female part is on top so I can simply pour oil into the top tube where you plug the winch handle in. That does it well. Early 29s had the male screw at the top but it was redesigned later.
Another recent correspondence on here seemed to indicate that on the 323 they have gone back to male thread at the top. Seems a bad move.
You can't separate the two parts, the male stud has a stopper screw and washer in the end. You have to unscrew the bronze nut from the tube to separate them.
 
If you are afloat you will need to find a way of holding the keel in a lifted position, perhaps a strap or a good rope under the boat to hold the keel up, not easy but doable. Ashore dead easy.

Then you can wind the thread up into the boat and lube it. However it may be that the brass nut has worn, this is sacraficialland may need changing. Its quite well described for a benny 21 which will be similar on http://first210.org/technotes/keelliftdesign.html .
 
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What I was trying to describe for the First 29 is exactly as per that First 21 drawing.
However you can't get at the threaded part by winding it up with the keel up, all you can get at that way is the tube. If it is like this you don't need to get at the male thread to grease it, you just pour thick oil down the tube from the top (veg oil if you are concerned about pollution).
 
What I was trying to describe for the First 29 is exactly as per that First 21 drawing.
However you can't get at the threaded part by winding it up with the keel up, all you can get at that way is the tube. If it is like this you don't need to get at the male thread to grease it, you just pour thick oil down the tube from the top (veg oil if you are concerned about pollution).

On my 21.7 and my 25.7 you could not pour oil down the centre it was blocked. And Yes you can get at the thread if the the keel is held in the raised position and you wind it as if lowering and the tube will be wound up into the cabin exposing the thread. I have done it on several occasions.

Beneteau do however fit a stupid stainless steel strap to prevent the tube coming up into the cabin, just take it off and throw it awaay because its going to get ripped off the first time you have a good grounding.
 
Lift the keel, leaving 3 or 4 turns free movement at the top.
Dry out somewhere.
Wind the keel all the way down. The keel will not move, but the threaded rod will move.
This will expose the thread right through your dining table.
Apply a thin layer of waterproof grease to thread.
Separate the 2 nylon bearings at the top, and put a layer of grease in there too.
Wind the keel back down.
Put bung back in table, pour red wine and wait for next tide.
 
Thanks to you all for your replies.

FullCircle, that looks like a winner. I'll do that after she comes out next week whilst she's on the cradle and frame on the hard. Great tip re the top bearings as well.

Thanks again all, I'll let you know how I get on and if there's any further lessons learnt.

All the best,
Pete
 
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