LPG high pressure or low pressure? Confused!

arthor

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Hello all,

as the new engine is about to go in my Fjord 27 Selcruiser, I am getting giddy and trying to get the boat through it's BSS inspection. I am redoing the gas system to make it simpler to get at.
My confusion comes from looking at the BSS PDF section 7. It refers to high and low pressure systems. I have no idea which is which or if mine is one or the other. Does it depend upon the gas used? The number of appliances?
I have a two ring hob and will be replacing the instant hot water thingey. Will that mean it is high pressure? If it is just the water heater that will make it so then I am tempted to leave it off altogether as I am thinking of a calorifier in the near future.
The reason that high or low pressure is an issue is because I installed my hob (brand new about 2 years ago) using one of those premade orange flexiible pipes. It's about 500mm in length. Is this acceptable in with either high or low pressure or indeed both. I'd rather not change it to copper 8mm unless I have to.
There must be some acceptance of flexis as I don't understand how you can have a rigid system in the case of a gimballed cooker for example.

Any guidance would be most welcome.

many thanks in advance

arthor
 

aquapower

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Hello all,

as the new engine is about to go in my Fjord 27 Selcruiser, I am getting giddy and trying to get the boat through it's BSS inspection. I am redoing the gas system to make it simpler to get at.
My confusion comes from looking at the BSS PDF section 7. It refers to high and low pressure systems. I have no idea which is which or if mine is one or the other. Does it depend upon the gas used? The number of appliances?
I have a two ring hob and will be replacing the instant hot water thingey. Will that mean it is high pressure? If it is just the water heater that will make it so then I am tempted to leave it off altogether as I am thinking of a calorifier in the near future.
The reason that high or low pressure is an issue is because I installed my hob (brand new about 2 years ago) using one of those premade orange flexiible pipes. It's about 500mm in length. Is this acceptable in with either high or low pressure or indeed both. I'd rather not change it to copper 8mm unless I have to.
There must be some acceptance of flexis as I don't understand how you can have a rigid system in the case of a gimballed cooker for example.

Any guidance would be most welcome.

many thanks in advance

arthor

A gimballed or pull out cooker can have a flexible hose, all othe appliances are to have solid pipe work.

This is a job that should only be carried out by a professional who is suitably experienced/qualified
 

rafiki_

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Hello all,

as the new engine is about to go in my Fjord 27 Selcruiser, I am getting giddy and trying to get the boat through it's BSS inspection. I am redoing the gas system to make it simpler to get at.
My confusion comes from looking at the BSS PDF section 7. It refers to high and low pressure systems. I have no idea which is which or if mine is one or the other. Does it depend upon the gas used? The number of appliances?
I have a two ring hob and will be replacing the instant hot water thingey. Will that mean it is high pressure? If it is just the water heater that will make it so then I am tempted to leave it off altogether as I am thinking of a calorifier in the near future.
The reason that high or low pressure is an issue is because I installed my hob (brand new about 2 years ago) using one of those premade orange flexiible pipes. It's about 500mm in length. Is this acceptable in with either high or low pressure or indeed both. I'd rather not change it to copper 8mm unless I have to.
There must be some acceptance of flexis as I don't understand how you can have a rigid system in the case of a gimballed cooker for example.

Any guidance would be most welcome.

many thanks in advance

arthor

You could try calling Phil at the BSC office. He is very helpful in my experience. Sorry, do not have the number to hand, but a quick Google should find the BSC contacts.
 

prv

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Do you work on your own gas appliances in your home?

Perfectly legal as long as you're competent.

I don't know whether the BSS requires professional work for inland boats like the OP's. It may well do. No legal need for a professional for seagoing boats; possibly not even a specific legal requirement to be competent (I'm not going to go and re-read the GSIURs right now).

Legalities aside, if the OP doesn't know the difference between high and low pressure then it may not be sensible for him to do the work.

Pete
 

Bilgediver

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from my understanding all new installations must be certificated by a Calor gas approved fitter. Speak to your insurers.

What is a Calor Gas Approved fitter. The usual inspection body is Gas Safe who took over from Corgi and it can be difficult to find a Gas Safe fitter who has the necessary certification to inspect not just LPG but LPG on boats. The link below helps your search but look for those companies that list boats!

http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/re...http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/Default.aspx
 

omega2

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What is a Calor Gas Approved fitter. The usual inspection body is Gas Safe who took over from Corgi and it can be difficult to find a Gas Safe fitter who has the necessary certification to inspect not just LPG but LPG on boats. The link below helps your search but look for those companies that list boats!

http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/re...http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/Default.aspx

never mind when Alex has done with you ,the road to England will be shut, then how will we find you?? LOL
 

Danbury

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Perfectly legal as long as you're competent.


For domestic stuff (not boat), I think you'll find that was the 'old' rule... these days, regardless of your competence, you must pay fees to Gas Safe to be legal... this includes even the water side of a gas appliance !! All bonkers I know... especially when you find that you know more than the 'Gas Safe Registered' plumber you just had to pay to do the job !
 

arthor

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many thanks for all your responses.
I'm still not sure what the difference between high and low pressure systems is but I reckon I have to assume mine is high and hard line everything. I think I am competent enough to fit some pipes together, particularly in what appears to be the absence of an official "badging" thing like CORGI for boats.
I get the need to avoid boats (or houses) blowing up willy nilly but it all seems to have become just a money making scheme for someone. I believe something akin exists, or will do soon, for electrics.
My cooker has an 8mm pipe and my water heater has 15mm fittings so I will run 8mm from the cooker to the gas locker and step up to 15 for the water heater branch. I am assuming regulators for the bottle are available with 8mm fittings?
 

Sandyman

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Legalities aside, if the OP doesn't know the difference between high and low pressure then it may not be sensible for him to do the work.

Having been a CORGI reg plumber for many years that would be my concern as well.
Not worth taking a risk, even if you know what the risk is, just to save a few bob.
 

Sandyman

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many thanks for all your responses.
I'm still not sure what the difference between high and low pressure systems is but I reckon I have to assume mine is high and hard line everything. I think I am competent enough to fit some pipes together, particularly in what appears to be the absence of an official "badging" thing like CORGI for boats.
I get the need to avoid boats (or houses) blowing up willy nilly but it all seems to have become just a money making scheme for someone. I believe something akin exists, or will do soon, for electrics.
My cooker has an 8mm pipe and my water heater has 15mm fittings so I will run 8mm from the cooker to the gas locker and step up to 15 for the water heater branch. I am assuming regulators for the bottle are available with 8mm fittings?

Is this a wind-up ? You are joking of course.

If not then let me assure you from your comments you do NOT have the required expertise.
 

Danbury

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many thanks for all your responses.
I'm still not sure what the difference between high and low pressure systems is but I reckon I have to assume mine is high and hard line everything. I think I am competent enough to fit some pipes together, particularly in what appears to be the absence of an official "badging" thing like CORGI for boats.
I get the need to avoid boats (or houses) blowing up willy nilly but it all seems to have become just a money making scheme for someone. I believe something akin exists, or will do soon, for electrics.
My cooker has an 8mm pipe and my water heater has 15mm fittings so I will run 8mm from the cooker to the gas locker and step up to 15 for the water heater branch. I am assuming regulators for the bottle are available with 8mm fittings?

For me, the water heater is scarey stuff...I would want to make sure that it has an adequate supply of gas... you should really calculate the correct pipe sizing. You can learn from books how to do it. In the absence of this, I'd definitely take 15mm pipe from the regulator to the heater, then branch off from there in 8mm. You should find that in operation, when the water heater uses it's full demand of gas, the cooker (using all it's rings and oven etc.) does not get starved of gas. This is all domestic natural gas theory, but I'd apply it as a minimum to LPG. Your regulator should have a kW rating that is higher than the combined heater and cooker ratings (by some distance I'd suggest).
 

aquapower

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There's some scary comments here from people who think they understand LPG who clearly don't. Don't assume as that's the quickest way to kill yourself or someone else.
I have been corgi/gas safe registered for about 20 years now and have witnessed many bodged jobs that people are very lucky to get away with. Its not just a money making exercise its about safety.
To install an appliance correctly there's more to it than just dropping it in and connecting up, you have ventilation to take into account, pipe size, location, and the whole design of the system. The course now takes at least 4 days if you are already experienced, and you can't just do it with out some prior experience.
 

Sandyman

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There's some scary comments here from people who think they understand LPG who clearly don't. Don't assume as that's the quickest way to kill yourself or someone else.
I have been corgi/gas safe registered for about 20 years now and have witnessed many bodged jobs that people are very lucky to get away with. Its not just a money making exercise its about safety.
To install an appliance correctly there's more to it than just dropping it in and connecting up, you have ventilation to take into account, pipe size, location, and the whole design of the system. The course now takes at least 4 days if you are already experienced, and you can't just do it with out some prior experience.


Couldn't agree more. I just hope the OP takes notice of what has been said.
 

dj43

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many thanks for all your responses.
I'm still not sure what the difference between high and low pressure systems is but I reckon I have to assume mine is high and hard line everything. I think I am competent enough to fit some pipes together, particularly in what appears to be the absence of an official "badging" thing like CORGI for boats.
I get the need to avoid boats (or houses) blowing up willy nilly but it all seems to have become just a money making scheme for someone. I believe something akin exists, or will do soon, for electrics.

My cooker has an 8mm pipe and my water heater has 15mm fittings so I will run 8mm from the cooker to the gas locker and step up to 15 for the water heater branch. I am assuming regulators for the bottle are available with 8mm fittings?

No you are not competent, you do not have the expertise or the qualification to carry out this work, for the safety of yourself and other,s get it done professionally, with water you can see a leak not with gas.
 
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