loose shaft anode

[odrisc2]

when adding or replacing anodes on a shaft. so it wont come loose what do people generally do or add? Loctite?

 

[Portofino]

Loctite 243 .
Buy don’t be tempted to nip up later after setting as you will break the grip .
Don,t ask how I found out

 

[odrisc2]

Loctite 243 .
Buy don’t be tempted to nip up later after setting as you will break the grip .
Don,t ask how I found out

what u mean?

you put on loctite then came back to tighten bolts and it had set?

so you tap the 2 halves together with hamner?

just add loctite to threads at end?

 

[vas]

when adding or replacing anodes on a shaft. so it wont come loose what do people generally do or add? Loctite?

what exactly you mean by come loose?
Never happened to me, but what has was eroding shaft anode means that it's not snug on shaft and just hovers about (typically stuffing itself to the cutlass bearing of the P bracket...)

V.

 

[PeterBoater]

Received wisdom seems to be to hammer the two halves together on the shaft but it's important either to hit both halves exactly simultaneously with two equal size hammers, or use one hammer and press a block of concrete or metal, or a large block of heavy wood, firmly on the non-hammer side, to avoid damage to the shaft and bearings. I'm not convinced about this; certainly it enables the bolts to be screwed in some more but with or without hammering the torque/tightness will be the same and consequently the 'grip' of the anode on the shaft will be the same. Loctite or equivalent is a good thing to use in either case. I also placed S/S jubilee clips above and below the anode so that if it did come loose it wouldn't interfere with the cutless bearing in the P bracket and the water flow to it, or in odd circumstances work its way up the shaft and do the same to the gland.

 

[Portofino]

what u mean?

you put on loctite then came back to tighten bolts and it had set?

so you tap the 2 halves together with hamner?

just add loctite to threads at end?

https://imgur.com/a/Kle6R

With my set up the anodes are on the prop bolts .
The port turns anti-clockwise from the midline out .
Yet the anode bolt is normal “ righty tightly / lefty loosey “
So as time goes by and the anode shrinks uniformally it appears a bit loose .
It’s cos I’ve phaffed with my diving kit grabbing it and feeling play .
So as soon as you put a tool on it and wrench it up tight - you break the seal of the 243 .
Then what happens the lo——- ng bolt thank god just works out and when anchored again it’s now even looser .
Stb is fine as it spins it up to the R so constant tightening its self up .

Knack is just leave it ,not be temped to nip it up .

 

[odrisc2]

Received wisdom seems to be to hammer the two halves together on the shaft but it's important either to hit both halves exactly simultaneously with two equal size hammers, or use one hammer and press a block of concrete or metal, or a large block of heavy wood, firmly on the non-hammer side, to avoid damage to the shaft and bearings. I'm not convinced about this; certainly it enables the bolts to be screwed in some more but with or without hammering the torque/tightness will be the same and consequently the 'grip' of the anode on the shaft will be the same. Loctite or equivalent is a good thing to use in either case. I also placed S/S jubilee clips above and below the anode so that if it did come loose it wouldn't interfere with the cutless bearing in the P bracket and the water flow to it, or in odd circumstances work its way up the shaft and do the same to the gland.

jubliee clips good idea. just squeeze them on the shaft on both sides of anode? my shaft is 41mm.. will use MGduff shaft anode.best jubliee clip?

 

[odrisc2]

shaft is 40mm meant to say

 

[Tranona]

Good quality anodes have a steel inner so just the zinc erodes. Whacking them ensures the liner is firmly on the shaft so you can do the fastenings up solidly.

 

[odrisc2]

Good quality anodes have a steel inner so just the zinc erodes. Whacking them ensures the liner is firmly on the shaft so you can do the fastenings up solidly.

cool..
loctite and jubilees clips?

 

[Piers]

Hi. When placing the two parts of each shaft anode on the shaft, press fit first. Then start to screw them together till they bite. then tap with a copper or leather headed hammer and continue tightening / tapping until you can go no more. I then add a stainless jubilee clip on each side, using medium strength Loctite. That's imn case an anode comes loose and drifts to the end of the shaft against the cutlass bearing thereby preventing the water flow through the bearing.

There are two schools of thought on using jubilees. One says no way, and that the differing metals between the shaft and the clip will cause corrosion and damage the shaft, whilst another (like me) says it's worked for years so why stop?

I started using clips when one of the anodes came loose requiring the cutlass to be changed. Clips are cheaper.

 

[john_morris_uk]

I can understand why people use the jubilee clip belt and braces technique but in twenty years of using the two hammer trick I’ve never had a prop shaft anode come loose. I was originally taught the two hammer technique by a boatyard.

 

[odrisc2]

so tap at same time with the 2 hammers and loctite on thread..

 

[john_morris_uk]

so tap at same time with the 2 hammers and loctite on thread..

Works for me.