Looking to buy a Jeanneau Sun 2000

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All opinions welcome on the merits or otherwise of a Sun 2000. I sail single handed and am looking at estuary day sailing, weekend coastal cruising and perhaps an annual crossing of the Irish Sea in settled conditions. I want a basic boat that offers shelter overnight and is fairly exciting to sail. I have a 1/2 tide mooring which is fairly exposed so boat must be able to take the ground well. I also want to avoid having to crane out which was a problem with my Hunter 272.
I've read the threads below and wonder if anyone, especially owners, have anything to add. My 1st choice of a Benny 211 has been discounted due to stub keel.
H&D

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119965

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113155

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78081

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215216
 
Only comment I would make is about taking to the ground. I once looked at the same issue and Jeanneau were honest enough to tell me that their yachts were designed as shoal draft but taking to the ground twice ever 24 hrs was another matter. And I have seen other lightly built boats ( its bound to be light at 20ft) actually wear through the hull grounding every tide on mud and sand.
 
Only comment I would make is about taking to the ground. I once looked at the same issue and Jeanneau were honest enough to tell me that their yachts were designed as shoal draft but taking to the ground twice ever 24 hrs was another matter. And I have seen other lightly built boats ( its bound to be light at 20ft) actually wear through the hull grounding every tide on mud and sand.

Thanks -something to consider but I think the boat dries out on its cast iron ballast plate so wearing through shouldn't be a problem. The mooring dries in about 3 knt of tide so the boat lies pretty steady as it dries.
 
Surveyed a number of Sun 2000's none found to have any common issues with the design, but check for stress cracking about the deck fittings and make sure the aperture of the ballast plate is free from debris and the centreboard is checked for operation.
 
Surveyed a number of Sun 2000's none found to have any common issues with the design, but check for stress cracking about the deck fittings and make sure the aperture of the ballast plate is free from debris and the centreboard is checked for operation.

That's very helpful, thank you.
 
I've got one that I keep on a drying mooring. Excellent boat for a 20 footer with big cockpit and surprsingly roomy berths (feels a much bigger boat than the Bene211, which has hopelessly narrow cockpit benches).

As you say all the ballast is in a great big drying plate, so would have thought it would be better than most lifting keel boats for drying out.

I use it for similar purposes to you. Mostly singlehanded and the occasional trip with my family of 5. I can self launch and rig the mast with the demasting kit (although it does take about 3 hours to do everything yourself).

The main downside is that the engine is off centre on the stern so can sometimes pop out of the water. Can also be a bit tender, so you learn to reef quickly. Having said that it is quite well mannered on it's ear, just not comfortable.

Happy to answer any further questions.
 
Many thanks. A few further questions if I may:
1. Can the jib be sheeted in moderate winds (15 knts) without resorting to a winch handle or would you recommend self-tailers?
2. I've read of one boat that leaked between the ballast and the GRP hull - do you have any knowledge of this problem?
3. Do you think a 4HP 4-stroke is enough or would you go larger for marine use? I would have opted for 6HP, which is the same weight, but a couple of boats I'm looking at come with 4s.
Thanks.
 
Many thanks. A few further questions if I may:
1. Can the jib be sheeted in moderate winds (15 knts) without resorting to a winch handle or would you recommend self-tailers?
2. I've read of one boat that leaked between the ballast and the GRP hull - do you have any knowledge of this problem?
3. Do you think a 4HP 4-stroke is enough or would you go larger for marine use? I would have opted for 6HP, which is the same weight, but a couple of boats I'm looking at come with 4s.
Thanks.

1. On the jib it really depends how quick you are to pull it in as to whether you need the winches. Personally never felt the need for self-tailers. If I mess up I usually luff a little to pull it in.

2. I think there was a one off problem published on the S2K site (by the way it's a good resource if you've not seen it, in french though http://sun2k.free.fr/). Mine certainly has not been a problem and not heard of others either.

3. I think 4 hp should be fine, if that is all you can get. When you need the extra horsepower is often when you want the prop more in the water, which usually means you can't have full throttle anyway. I've got a Honda 5hp 4s that seems fine.
 
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