looking for current info on cruising the Sardinian coast cost tips

trouville

trouville

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The med changes quickly theses days but Italy changes by the second i sometimes think,that is price wise!

In Italy marinas are being built so fast you might leave a free or freeish town key for a day sail only to find a marina with very marina charges when you retern!
bays once free to anchor laid with expensive mooreing bouys.

Im thinking of spending this year in Sardinia to try to recover from my baltic nightmare and get my finances back in shape In Italy they ask nicely for your money in the baltic they steal it and spit in your face

Im looking for villages with free town keys or prices bays that are near villages we have a rather deep draft and will need 1.50m 4.6 feet.Also place not to go due to wash swell or cost!

Has anyone found and or eaten the unique Sardinian cheese including the live wiggiling worms???Is it now legal??

All advise welcome

Merry boxing day to all
 
Carloforte has a free town quay.
Porto Cervo anchorage is quite well sheltered and convenient for supermarket, but gets crowded.
Cala Volpe is very well sheltered, we sat out 50 knots of wind there for four days, but not a lot around there.
Olbia town quay was free but if a big gin palace comes in everybody gets cleared out. Anchoring in the river is possible. Apparently theft has been quite a problem there.
Good anchorage at Villasimius but shops some way away, apart from expensive ones in the marina.
 
I am wintering in Alghero €9 per day 24 hour guard and mooring checked daily.
We arrived ar Stintorno from Corsica then went through Fornelli passage Boat draws 1.7m so just made it.
Information I have received is to avoid the NE coast in season (Costa Smeralda) prices are astro if you can get a place.
Still at planning stage for 2008 but hope to pick up info through the CA med section and use of CA library
 
You are correct that Sardinia is very quickly filling up with marinas and charging town quays. These are the only two places I can recommend:

1. Cagliari town quay. This is free for 'visitors'. Don't know how long they will stretch that definition, I was there for a week and the officials were very friendly. The town is wonderful, not touristy at all, just very real Sardinian and wonderful. You will find this spot inside the eastern breakwater in the inner harbour, moor west of the Coast Guard cutter.

If they chase you off here, I would go to the 'Marina del Sole' which is in the eastern part of the harbour,just east of the yacht club. This is a great family run marina that will give you a great rate if you are a liveaboard and are staying longer periods. The family is extremely friendly and will go out of their way to accomodate you.

2. The second option is the weird one; you can actually stay for free in Puerto Cuervo - 'the Billionaire's Playground'. Yes, anchoring in the bay is very good and sheltered - and it is free! I am sure you would easily make new friends with the megayacht owners and crew in this harbour and you will entertain us no end with your encounters. Go for it!
 
All noted,i hope to be down there by may,late because i have to sort out the mess ive got into in the baltic!

We stayed in Puerto Cuervo for a few weeks during winter some years ago when Porto Ferio was said to be going "pay" again (and it did two years later) we were told if we had enough boats they would open a shop and cafe to serve us perhaps!

I suspect today that has changed as well!

There are a few places to stay about there its the coast further south i dont know at all well but hope to get to know? Includeing that cheese which i have tried but would like to try again at least i think so??Might change my mind when i see it in the flesh again!
 
Sorry trouville, but I don't think you will find any free harbours anymore on the east coast between Puerto Cuervo and Cagliari. There are some nice bays south of Puerto Cuervo where you can anchor, but for the rest there are very few shelters and it is all marinas/harbours with a charge.
 
During our overnight at Villasimius, I got a sense that it would Capo Corbonara might be a good place to anchor, ducking from one side of the cape to the other in order to remain sheltered from the wind.

Only problem was that the town is quite a way inland.
 
Bonjour Trouville
I enjoy your musings so maybe these notes will help you find some more entertainement for us for 2008.

As others have said, the NE of Sardinia is busy and expensive during the height of summer however we found plenty of nice places along the East coast in 2005. During the 2005 season the greatest need was to shelter from the strong Westerly/Nth Westerly winds which come regularly during the summer. Many anchorages do not give a good shelter as the chart might imply because the land is so low in the Nth.

If you remember that the Italians are the masters of predatory (seasonal) pricing you will not be too surprised when you ask for prices - shocked but not surprised. Here are some samples of anchorages and free port walls:

Le Madelana islands are part of a controlled reserve area and many anchorages have mooring boueys for which there is a fee. Even if you don't use the mooring, there is a fee for daily use. You can buy a permit (look it up on the web) or pay a higher daily rate. Unfortunately the rangers don't take your rubbish away when they collect your fee like they do in Croatia. The fee collectors are particularly active in July and August otherwise you may be able to dodge them. One the other hand, we went to La Maddalena Port and were allowed to stay 3hrs during the day for shopping and lunch without paying a fee. The fee is/was for overnight only.

Porto Puddu south of Isola Spargi has wonderful shelter and is mostly quiet. There are two holiday locations nearby and they did make a little noise but not very late at night. No facilities or shops, just good quiet shelter. We returned a couple of time to didge the weather.

Palau. Very busy with ferry traffic to La Maddalena but has good supermarket and market facilities. We anchored off and took the dinghy in. OK if you need something urgently. There is a small boat port but it was jam packed.

Don't miss the disused quarry on Isola S.Stefano, Cala di Villamarina. There you will find a huge unfinished statue to fishermen. You could more there overnight if the weather is right and you keep away from the section of jetty which is in use.

Cannigioni. Good shelter from the Westerlies even though gusts still come down from the valley. Plenty of anchoring area at the head of the bay. A number of pontoon style "Marinas" but we anchored off so I can't talk prices. Bottom is weed so be sure to dig in well. There is a public port which was under enlargement work in 06. Maybe they are finished now but free spaces would be unlikely. The town is popular for holiday makers and has supermarkets, restaurants, shops and chandleries.

Porto Cervo. As already advised, extremely expensive for a berth but there is an anchorage area to starboard off the Yacht Club. It can be busy but we enjoyed 2 nights there free of charge and had a reasonably priced dinner in the up-market village at the end of the southern arm.

Cala di Volpe. We didn't stay there but it had the most wonderous collection of boats/ships worth more than the GDP of many countries. Worth a look as you sail past to....

Golfo di Cugnana. Sail past the boats waiting to get into the Marina on Stb to the good anchorage with plenty of space. Another place to dodge the weather. There is a village at the head of the gulf but I cannot report about facilities.

Porto Rotondo. Very artificial but a pleasant place to stroll around, have coffee or a pizza. We anchored off and took the Zodiac in just to be tourists. I have heard that the rates are quite reasonable out of the main season months.

Olbia. Very good shelter. In 2005 there was free mooring to an unused ferry quai behind Is di Mezzo which is on the Port arm of the port when approaching. There were signs implying a new development was planned but as to whether it has proceeded I can't say. Worth a look. The quai at the very head of the bay is used by a large Coast Guard vessel but they tolerate yachts tying up in the corner of the 2 quays. Water was available and soldiers patrolled the area daily/nightly. Expect to tie up alongside with 2 or 3 abreast. The bottom os very soft mud not suitable for anchoring and going sternt to. Many have tried and failed! Plenty of restaurants, supermarket within 5mins walk and an Achen by bus. Olbia is a major regional centre so has many facilities. As another has said there are security issues, particularly if you anchor in the bay/river nearby to this quay. Friends of mine had their boat robbed of all valuable while they were at a restaurant only 100m away. Apparently the thieves swim from the bank on the opposite side and float their "booty" back.

Golfo di Olbia. There is a wondeful small bay near Is. to Porri. Sometimes called Cala Banana. Beautiful sandy beach. Generally very quiet. No facilities but a beach kiosk in season.

This area is dominated by the impressive Is Tavola. There are 3 or 4 restaurants on the spit to the west of the island and the eastern most one is highly recommended. Go early as they are busy. Basic seafood but very enjoyable. Around the coast of these gulfs there are a number of very pretty bays with great anchorages. We liked Porto Della Taverna but there are plenty to choose from.

La Caletta.A regional town with a very well sheltered port. There is a yacht club which accepts visiting yachts if there is room, but there is also a free pontoon ahead and to the left as you enter the port. This had been damaged by weather so users were cautious of allowing too many boats to tie up but there were other spaces further along the left side of the port. Water could be found on the ferry quay on the port side of the breakwater/mole but it was very slow flowing. The town has all the supermarket/restaurant facilites you need. A quiet place and a very strategic stopover on the passage south to Cagliari.

Arbatax. The next main stop on the way south with good shelter. This is a commercial port for fishing and engineering for oil/gas rigs. There is a good shipyard for all types of repairs. We have friends who wintered there and did an engine/saildrive replacement. There may be some free quai space but we arrived in bad weather and decided the marina was a good choice for overnight. Supermarkets etc available as it is a working town.

Porto Corallo. This is a relatively new port development/rework. Very helpful operator and not expensive, perhaps Eu25 for 13m. A Bar/taverna and a nearby camping ground but not much else. The entry is tight and could be difficult in a southerly swell.

Villasimius Marina. Outrageous price so we anchored in a small bay near the entrance with 3 other outraged boats.

Cagliari. We used 'Marina del Sole'because the public quai area was full at the time. It is a bit inconvenient due the distance from the town (3km) but there are food supplies within walking distance and the marina has a car for short term rental (Eu10 per hour??) which was very handy for a big hit at the supermarket. Cagliari is a great city, very interesting and it has some impressive architecture.

Don't miss a side trip to the ancient site of Nora on the Capo Di Pula SW of Cagliari. There are 2 bays to choose for anchorage depending upon the weather.

Bon Voyage,
Ray
 
Porto Cervo is now very restricted because they have placed mooring buoys in the anchorage at €50+ per night. A few yachts can anchor in the corner off the beach but otherwiseits no go. Olbia is €20for a permit to stay as long as you like (?)but there are no facilities.One of the nicest places in the North West is Alghero but there are charges at the public Quay during the summer months.The best place to anchor in the North is Cannigione where the holding is good (in the sandy bits) and there is a nice town a short row away.You also have a good base for cruising the Madallena Islands. Stintino is another nice anchorage and you can nip into the marina if you need water. In general there are lots of terrific anchorages all around the Northern part of Sardinia and although the winds are stronger than other parts of the Med., you can usually find a nice lee where you can drop the hook. Good luck!
 
All noted and copied thanks,with very special thanks to "Gypsy" whos post has been copyed (on a laser printer which prints in water resistant ink) and clipped into my Italian waters pilot first bought in 1986 and updated!

With the exception of porto Cervo i developed a relationship with many Italian ports that i could come in tie up if there was room on the key fill up with water and leave WITHOUT asking for a place for the night saved them time looking, only for me to be devested when they told me the price and leave anyway.
 
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