Look at the state of my interior woodwork - any ideas ?

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aidancoughlan

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The interior woodwork on my Merlin seems to have not been touched up since the boat was launched.... I'm wondering what is the best way to go about stripping it down. SWMBO tried some Nitromors on a small patch (internal anchor locker hatch) , and apparently it refused to move anything. I've found suggestions that the original Westerly finish around 1985 was acid-cured lacquer from Morrells.... any ideas on how to remove it ?

Since the steps are veneered, is sanding them out of the question ? The bulkheads are also veneered, and in much better condition but also need to be re-coated soon so I am keen to use the steps as a test. Can hardly make them much worse...

I've bought some International Goldspar varnish to re-finish with, but am puzzled about the best way to strip it down/prepare the surface.... any ideas ?



Companionway steps (marine ply, faced with veneer?).....

P1010899.jpg


Galley area, at bottom of companionway...
P1010898.jpg
 
I would try a tungsten carbide scraper, such as the Harris on from screwfix.
with or without hot air gun.
I suspect you should have started in November.
 
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I suspect you should have started in November

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Hmm... methinks you may be correct !

Do you think a scraper /hot air gun will be ok to use on veneer ? The outside veneer looks to be only about 2mm thick as far as I can see.
 
On my Fulmar I stripped the sole with ordinary paint stripper.Two aplications got most of the varnish off and then I washed and lightly sanded it.Doing it on the boat may prove to be a bit messy.I wouldn't sand the veneered areas as it is too agressive.
In your case I would apply Nitromors very liberaly and then rub it off with some wire wool and water.It is important to always go with the grain not across it.
 
If it were mine I would try very carefully with a proper cabinet scraper. A cabinet scraper is a flat piece of stainless steel, normally rectangular in shape. Don't bother with any DIY type scrapers. Sharpen the scraper by holding it in a vice and crossfiling it to produce a slight burr along the edge. I would recommend trying using the scraper on an area which is out of site at first. Be especially careful on any veneered sections. Good luck!
 
Thanks Nuno... I was concerned ok that sanding would go through the veneer ... I tried rubbing a patch with Mildew remover/scothbrite pad on an area of bulkead that seems to have mildew stains and it looks to be damaging the veneer.

[Edit]...
thanks lw395 and David... I'm a bit concerned about using scrapers just yet (more worried about my skill in using it than the danger from the scraper itself!)
Nitromors seems more attractive, but didnt work for SWMBO earlier. Maybe we'll try again with a "liberal" coating of Nitromors - I'm not sure how much SWMBO applied last time.
 
Oh dear it does look bad, but it was probably reflected in the price you paid!
By Westerly Fulmar (1983) was almost as bad.
Take as much home to do as possible ( take all doors off lockers for example)
Yes use stripper, you will need more than one coat. Agitate with wire wool.
Use an orbital sander but not a belt sander, finish by hand .
5 coats of polyurathane gloss varnish ( it doesn't have to be an expensive one from a chandlery.)

Then 2 coats of rubbed effect varnish (sorry I have forgotten who makes this, dutch I think - expensive buy at the chandlery). This si much more tricky to apply well, hence all the main coats are in thecheaper gloss.

The result will be almost as good as the day the boat was sold. Visitors to mine can't believe how old it is !
 
Yes try the paint stripper. The tungsten scraper someone suggested sounds interesting. Might get one myself. Just to clarify this <span style="color:blue"> </span> is what I had in mind.
 
[ QUOTE ]
cabinet scraper

[/ QUOTE ] I would have called it a dumb scraper! The edges should be made true and square with a flat file and an oilstone. A cutting edge is then produced and turned using a ticketer which is a hard round steel rod. The back of a gouge can be used although I use the shank of a screwdriver.

I am sure there must be instructions on line somewher but otherwise see "The Woodworkers Pocket Book" by Charles H Hayward ISBN 0 237 35195 1
 
I think there are many ways to approach the challenge. This is only one.

My way of boating with regard to cosmetics is don't spend too long but make it look alot better than before you started and then go sailing.

Scrape off as much as you can and then use something like Sikkens Cetol light wood coating. This has a colour to it that will take care of all the little bits. As mentioned, the danger is going through the veneer.
 
That looks like a good sanding will do the trick . I wouldnt bother with anything other than sand paper or scrapers unless i had to . A belt sander would be quicker if you can remove the panels but as said a ROS is safer if you have never used a belt sander . The new style scrapers are great for removing material and far better than the cabinet scrapers with a burr but i agree a cabinet scraper with a burr is better for a good finish , not much in it though .
 
Yes fully agree, proper cabinet scraper.
These should be TOOL steel not SS.
Sharpened true with a fine file by draw-filing,
This gives you 8 cutting edges,
it is useful to grind one end into a slight curve for doing difficilt bits.
Care must be taken that the long edges dont become hollow as you are inclined to sharpen the middle more than the corners.

But get this trick: try a steam wallpaper stripper with a small shoe. 3" x 6" or so. you just heat up a small patch of varnish and scrape it off with the cabinet scraper. Much better than a hot air gun as the steam goes through the paint a bit and releases it from the wood or GRP. I removed ten coats of polyurethane from the whole of a 25ft boat with that. and the varnished wood bits were the easiest.
 
Do that and you will be straight through the veneer. If it is veneer??

I think you may have to go for a completly different finnish. Heavily coloured varnish? trouble here is, you must go darker, or maybe paint.

I'd carry on looking for information, before doing to much. I've got the same problem, but not nearly as bad. It's very tempting whils sanding, even by hand, to see a little bad bit, so sand a bit more. Eventually realising, you have gone through the veneer.
 
This is probably anathema to many, but I would consider going for a more modern, brighter look by getting the paint (rather than varnish) brush out, and painting the large flat (veneered?) areas, while keeping the solid timber (?) edge mouldings varnished - you get a very nice contrast by doing this, and it makes everything down below much brighter.
 
I agree with you. I think the large expanses of varnished plywood seen on so many boats make the interior dark and gloomy; like living inside a cigar box. Also an old boat will have many old fastener holes, dents, scratches which can easily be filled in and then disguised with paint.
 
Agree with the use of scrapers - used VERY carefully. However, I would seriously consider using the lacquer that Westerly originally used. It is fantastic to use, fully touch dries within 1/2 hour and is very hard and durable. My Fulmar looks like it has just been built.

The company used to be called FT Morrel and Co, but I think are now called Morrelco, or something similar. They do different 'finishes' varying from high gloss to matt, and the one Westerly used was a semi-matt as below:

Lacquer: 5103 450 (two pack lacquer) Thinners: 5007 450

The thinners are used to clean brushes/pads and to wipe the woodwork down before applying the lacquer.

As I recall, the minimum quantity you can buy is 5 litres, but this will last (if stored sensibly) for many years and actually works out far cheaper than good varnishes. The problem with the latter is that they are far more easily damaged in my experience and, of course, once you've used a varnish, you can't revert to a lacquer without a massive amount of work.

No connection etc, but this really is an excellent, extremely easy to use product that produces a stunning finish. PM me if you have any queries.




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Quote Scrape off as much as you can and then use something like Sikkens Cetol light wood coating. This has a colour to it that will take care of all the little bits.

Sikkens is a really good product despite the manufactures lack of decent colour samples. From my experience if you don't get all the old stuff off, it will show through. Some people use glass as a scrapper with excellent results.
 
I was very interested to read this thread as I have this to do myself at some stage. Lots of good ideas which I shall be trying, tho I suspect that nothing less than hard work is going to be the key. I suggest you leave out the belt sander. Your veneer, I am sure, is more like 1/2mm than 2mm.
I too like Sikkens, varnish is fine if you like the deep shine of the traditional, I always use it for floors as anything matt/silk always looks so gloomy.
With an eye to resale I would not want to paint it, if it were mine.
 
Veneers on plywood tend to be very thin, so I'd strip with nitromors or similar to get off the existing varnish, then try restoring the colour with a branded colour restorer before sanding lightly to an even colour. Then I'd re-varnish using something that really soaks in to the wood. It'll take a good few coats, but then if you are the sort of weirdo like me who loves varnishing, that'll be the fun part.
 
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