Long keel manoeuvres

[cuppateatime]

I have a 35 foot, 10 tonne, long keel yacht that is an absolute joy to sail, particularly in these 'lumpier' autumn seas. However, recently when I have been returning to my Marina berth, the wind always seems to have positioned itself so as to blow my off my finger pontoon. This is great once securely tied alongside, as the boat just sits nicely off the pontoon, however it is a nightmare manoeuvre! The yacht has a fair bit of windage, so likes to drift sideways as soon as you I start my turn into the berth - unhelpfully pushing me away from the berth. Even trickier was the other afternoon when the wind was just forward of the quarter, so whipped the stern out causing much chaos with ropes franticly being flung to pull the stern back in.

The yacht has a max prop, so you get good kicks of power, and if enough power is used to kick astern, you can counter act her tendency to swing stern to starboard going astern. No fancy bow thruster or the likes though. I have wondered about reversing into the berth as an alternative, maybe giving me more control, however that would need practice on a still day, so are there any more suggestions to make manoeuvres a little more stress free and beat the effects of the wind?

 

[Leighb]

I have wondered about reversing into the berth as an alternative, maybe giving me more control, ?

With a long keeler, you gotta be joking.

Long keels and control going astern don't coexist AFAIK.

 

[Wansworth]

I had a long keel heavy boat and found that the prop paddlewheel effect had to be the major aspect of manuvering.Act with decision and speed drive the boat into the berth and use the astern to pull the stern in and stop the boat.

 

[The engineer]

Get an appropriate spring on ASAP and you have full control, once you get there of course The trick to that, as said, is decisive application of power. Wimp around and you're in trouble.

 

[Simondjuk]

If the boat will stop quickly enough, carrying a little more way through the final turn into your berth will lessen the effect of the wind. Failing that, simply start the turn a little earlier to allow for it.

If the pontoon length and cleat positioning are suitable, without anyone even needing to step off the boat, you can drop a short loop of warp over a pontoon cleat that will end up aft of amidships as you enter, make it off amidships on board, and motor against it to hold the boat up to wind against the pontoon. Once there, keep motoring onto the line and if you find the boat being pivoted around by the wind, putting the helm over to the pontoon will put the bows out, putting the helm away from the pontoon will bring the bows in. Just make sure that the loop is short enough to bring the boat up alongside the finger before the bow strikes the main pontoon ahead.

 

[maby]

What do you have next to you on the other side of the boat? Another yacht?

I always used to worry about exactly the same issue until we crewed for our neighbour on a rather windy day. We came back into the berth and he simply stalled his boat against ours, climbed across our deck with lines and warped his boat over onto his finger pontoon - I took that as permission to do the same when the conditions were reversed. We subsequently did a dayskipper practical course and, once again, were instructed to do it that way if the wind was making it difficult to come in straight onto the pontoon.

 

[The engineer]

If the boat will stop quickly enough, carrying a little more way through the final turn into your berth will lessen the effect of the wind. Failing that, simply start the turn a little earlier to allow for it.

If the pontoon length and cleat positioning are suitable, without anyone even needing to step off the boat, you can drop a short loop of warp over a pontoon cleat that will end up aft of amidships as you enter, make it off amidships on board, and motor against it to hold the boat up to wind against the pontoon. Once there, if you find the boat being pivoted around by the wind, putting the helm over to the pontoon will put the bows out, putting the helm away from the pontoon will bring the bows in. Just make sure that the loop is short enough to bring the boat up alongside the finger before the bow strikes the main pontoon ahead.

+1

 

[Tranona]

Simple answer is to change your berth - as you can't change the handling characteristics of your boat. Try to get a berth that faces the prevailing wind. I have a high windage boat (although good control both forwards and backwards) and my berth faces due west and pontoon straboard side. Prevailing wind is south west so provided I get the boat in at least halfway the wind stops me from hitting the walkway and holds the boat against the pontoon. Two big bumpers on the pontoon and one on the walkway. Ready made shore lines are suspended on a pole - short one to a mid cleat goes on first then bow spring and stern line. Bow lines then attached at leisure. Boat is 37 foot, weighs about 6.5 tonnes and I do this singlehanded.

Speak kindly to the marina management about your requirements.

 

[Sandy]

With a long keeler, you gotta be joking.

Long keels and control going astern don't coexist AFAIK.

I wonder how they get out of the berth, turntable pehaps?

 

[Lady Campanula]

It's difficult to offer helpful suggestions without a clearer picture of the surroundings, but certainly the answers will be found in here:

There are several parts to this series, which is probably obtainable via the PBO excellent Print Service. Certainly Dick Everitt is still around - and the ghost of John Goode, stinky old pipe at the 'present arms', can occasionally be seen haunting boat shows.

The knowhow in these slim volumes is 'gold dust'.

 

[prv]

I wonder how they get out of the berth, turntable pehaps?

"Out of the berth" is a much bigger target.

Pete

 

[Talulah]

Another option is to mount dock fenders where the bow would hit the pontoon.
You can then keep motoring forwards until the bow is pushed up against the pntoon and turn the wheel so the side of the boat pushes against the finger pontoon.
It helps if you have a marker on the finger pontoon (either real or virtual) so you know how far forwards the boat has to go for the bow to touch.
Once the boat is pushed up against the pontoons it gives sufficient time to get lines attached.
This method works well for singlehanded sailors when returning to their own berth.

 

[Simondjuk]

Whilst sounding elementary, the number of people I see struggling to get a line around a pontoon cleat from onboard a boat makes the following seem worth mentioning as an addition to my previous post.

The very best way to lasso a pontoon cleat, quayside bollard, or whatever is as follows. Take a modest length warp, make one end of it off to the boat's cleat. Coil the remainder in medium sized turns. Take as many turns of this coil as you think you'll need to throw a nice big bight of warp onto the pontoon in one hand, five or seven for example. Lay the excess on deck. Stand on the warp between your coil and the excess. Pass the coil under any guard wires. Split the coil into two similar portions, one in each hand, then drop the middle turn from the larger coil to give some scope between the two coils and allow your hands to move independantly. When your cleat is in range, simply throw your two coils well beyond and one well to each side of your target in a gentle underarm motion - rather like you are ushering chickens. It's very hard not to have your target within the bight of warp now cast out ashore at this point, so simply pick up the warp from under your foot, bring in the slack and take a turn on the cleat where the other end was previously made off. Done, you're secure in a manner that brings the boat under full control if done amidships and motored onto. You really cant miss, no one has to make a wild leap from the boat and it's very simple to deal with the slack as there's only one end to worry about.

 

[Simondjuk]

Another option is to mount dock fenders where the bow would hit the pontoon.
You can then keep motoring forwards until the bow is pushed up against the pntoon and turn the wheel so the side of the boat pushes against the finger pontoon.
It helps if you have a marker on the finger pontoon (either real or virtual) so you know how far forwards the boat has to go for the bow to touch.
Once the boat is pushed up against the pontoons it gives sufficient time to get lines attached.
This method works well for singlehanded sailors when returning to their own berth.

As a matter of routine berthing procedure, I like that idea even less than I like the previously mentioned idea of lying against a neighbouring boat. Why not get in the habit of doing it properly rather than rehearsing sloppy practice?

 

[Tranona]

As a matter of routine berthing procedure, I like that idea even less than I like the previously mentioned idea of lying against a neighbouring boat. Why not get in the habit of doing it properly rather than rehearsing sloppy practice?

Can't see why you consider this "sloppy practice" The objective is to berth the boat safely and without damage. If holding it against the buffer on the walkway works, why not use it? As I explained above I do a similar thing, allowing the boat to rest against the buffers on the pontoon. A pragmatic solution to the problem.

There is no such thing as "doing it properly" - only the way that achieves your objective without causing damage to other peoples' property. agree that lying alongside a neighbour's boat is not ideal, but if good fendering is used it can be effective. Very sensitive for me because my neighbour is a new Southerly 110 with a dark blue hull and varnished cappings you can see your face in. Encourages one to make sure the boat is tight against its own pontoon.

 

[Wansworth]

In the marina in cANGAS IN THR RIA DE VIGO there are boatmen on duty who will come to hel moor up if requested over the radio.The marina actively encourages this as it reduces problems and damage.

 

[westernman]

With a long keeler, you gotta be joking.

Long keels and control going astern don't coexist AFAIK.

I always reverse into my berth as it saves having to bring the bowsprit in.
52 ft LOD + another 16ft bowsprit, 34 tonnes displacement long keel.

While it is true you have no directional control going astern, where it will go (in the one boat length distance we are talking about) is entirely predictable.

 

[Simondjuk]

Tranona,

The skipper who relys on getting his boat into his own berth, with which he's familiar, by having it set up like a soft play area is going to struggle getting into an unknown berth, with no fendering, in a tricky corner, when it's blowing a gale from the wrong direction and it's dark and raining simply because he doesn't practice properly at every opportunity.

The skipper who uses universally applicable techniques as a matter of routine at his home berth will struggle less because he's well practised.

 

[Leighb]

I wonder how they get out of the berth, turntable pehaps?

That would be handy.

However getting out is less of a problem, I usually just push her back making sure that the stern goes the way I want as I step aboard, while SWMBO handles the tiller and gear lever. Sometimes this fails, and she goes the wrong way, but usually we are clear of the berth and can manoeuvre to get out of the marina.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Going astern has been of 'great interest/adventure into the unknown' on my two boats.
The Twister was more easily managed given her 28foot and now the Tradewind at 36foot+ brings about its own challenges.
No matter which way you go about your manoevers, I'd advise plenty of fenders and especially 2 or 3 large ball fenders.
Getting into a tight position is something I usually relish but I must admit that I can now 'cheat', with a bow thruster which makes a huge amount of difference.