Log Wheel Servicing?

CaptainBob

CaptainBob

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Joined
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Location
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www.yacht-forum.co.uk
Hi, I keep reading about people removing their log... even read an article on how to do it without getting too much of a leak in the hull (using a mini wall around it to minimise water ingress).

Why might one want to do this? Is it just to remove weed fouling - or something else? What am I missing?
 
I had a cylindrical cofferdam glassed in round mine that drains direct to the bilge. It keeps all the compartments aft of the log dry. I always lift my log when I leave the boat in a marina to stop it fouling.
 
You will get weed and shrimps and stuff that stop it working.

Good way to freak out newbies is to pull the thing out at sea and start screaming "The boats sinking". Or ask a newbie to pull it out without warning him what's going to happen, especially if you say something like pull it out really carefully. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
So the whole thing can pull into the boat through a hole in the hull? I could have sworn my impeller thing was bigger than the hole... I'll have another look next time I'm at my boat.

Cheers for the answers.
 
I assume your impeller is mounted on the bottom of a cylindical tube and that you need to unscrew the retaining ring and then pull the whole thing into the boat. The gush of water that then almost hits you in the face is, I agree, a bit scary. Points: make sure you have a cap to screw on to stem the flow and maybe a tapered wooden bung in reserve; clean the cylinder and lubricate with silicone to give best chance of re-inserting speedily
 
Or have a tennis-ball handy. Pull the plug and pop the tennis-ball over the hole and jam your heel on it while you de-crud the impeller. DO NOT, as I did, blow on it to see of it rotates! I flogged my lip with a Portuguese Man o' War tendril and spoke like Sylvester Stallone for 3 days!
Also- most impellers have a locating notch to make sure they're aligned. Push the plug in till it's aligned, and if you keep your impeller out while you're away from the boat, make sure the blanking-plug is set securely!
 
I bought my boat and could not find the paddle wheel blanking cap. Couple of weeks later I went to the boat show and asked a Ray marine expert where I could acquire one..... "Ah Ah said the expert didn't you know you don't need one....they are self sealing...." I could see the look in his eyes , another newbie boater here was the look. (A boat show speciality)...
Next week on the boat...I checked the paddle wheel...With the thought of self sealing in my mind....carefully unscrewed the impeller. WOW a beautiful Blue fountain of water and nothing to whap over the hole.......And could not pop it back in.....Still and excellent opportunity to give the bilge pump a good long test
 
Don't need a tennis ball, just put your foot over the hole and you've got both hands to clear the impeller. Depends on the water temperature if you wear a sea boot or not.
 
[ QUOTE ]
There's no great drama about the process and I am continuously amazed that people get stressed about doing it.

[/ QUOTE ]
Some peeps like to keep their bilge completely dry - not something I've ever managed to do. Also, some logs (mine included) don't have flaps across the skin fitting to act as a seal when the log is withdrawn.

Anyone know if it's possible to change the skin fitting for a self sealing one without changing the log itself?
 
Depends on what type of log and impeller. I have two, a VDO log with a propellor type sensor that always reads low, gets fishing line and other things caught round it, and needs either a diver or the boat taken out of the water to clean. That was in the boat when I got it. Getting fed up with this, I installed a NASA Target log with a paddle-wheel type sensor. That is fixed in a tube which is bonded to (and through) the hull. To clean it, all you do is unscrew a large plastic nut that keeps it in place and pull it in. There is then a 30mm hole in the hull, which you plug with the temporary cap provided. A bit scary the first time you do it. Especially if you drop the cap into the bilge. Clean the impellor of any wee bits of stuff, living or not, that are preventing it turning, remove the cap and quickly replace the impeller,
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
There's no great drama about the process and I am continuously amazed that people get stressed about doing it.

[/ QUOTE ]
Some peeps like to keep their bilge completely dry - not something I've ever managed to do. Also, some logs (mine included) don't have flaps across the skin fitting to act as a seal when the log is withdrawn.

Anyone know if it's possible to change the skin fitting for a self sealing one without changing the log itself?

[/ QUOTE ]I have heard of people who like to keep their bilges completely dry. How on earth they do it is beyond me. The only time my bilges have been completely dry was when the boat was in a shed. There are always bits of condensation, drips through the naval pipe (we don't have a self draining anchor chain locker - it drains into the bilge) etc etc. I sponge out the water that gets into the boat and often sponge out the deep bilge, but there's usually another few cupfulls after a while.
 
Someone gave me the tip to slide a sponge over the log tube as you remove the log and put the cap on.Very little water squeezes past-more when you replace the log I have found1
 
for someone who owns a yachting forum you ask some pretty elementary questions capt`n. you are not just trying to publicise your site , by any chance ?
 
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