Lofrans Windlass Cleaning / Servicing

[petem]

I suspect my windlass hasn't been cleaned or serviced for many years. What are the basics that I can do to inspect, clean and service it?

I believe it's an Airon (Targa 34). The boat is in the water so I'm obviously reluctant to do anything that might mean losing parts it overboard.

 

[BruceK]

It's fairly basic stuff Pete (I was a bit uncertain myself but was pleasantly surprised). I have the early Airon with the gypsy and drum. It's just a matter of taking it apart and greasing the shaft and cleaning out the muck and any grease in the two clutches and with a bit of fine emery paper smoothing out any scoring. Nothing small that is suddenly going to jump out and roll away and quite doable on the water provided it's calm and you place dismantled parts directly into a bucket.

 

[petem]

Thanks Bruce, I've subsequently found some documentation on the Lofrans web site (https://www.lofrans.com/library) that would seem to confirm that it is indeed quite an easy job.

Interestingly, they say to lubricate with WD40 (which I don't believe I have any onboard the boat) whereas I always thought grease was the best thing to use.

Pete

 

[BruceK]

I read that too. I am very dubious as WD40 is not a lubricant but a water repellent, and where as it's good at that it's effects are short lived. I used a marine grade white grease used for lubing the outdrives and was careful not to apply too much or get it on the clutches. Well I did first time round, but you very soon notice the error. I believe the only real purpose of the grease is to keep the shaft corrosion free so it can be easily dismantled. I have heard that otherwise the spacers and especially the lower clutch can be awkward to remove. Just a thin layer of grease will do.

 

[Andy Bav]

The boat is in the water so I'm obviously reluctant to do anything that might mean losing parts it overboard.

Why not turn it around and service it from the pontoon :encouragement:

 

[jrudge]

The "service" is actually mostly cleaning. When you take it to bits you will most likely find that there is ground up mud in there which has turned solid along with chain swarf ( which is usually what upsets chain counters).

Just undo the top, remove any "forks" that maybe holding the gypsey down and remove it. Other than removing the gearbox and motor ( nothing user serviceable) that is about it.

The bits are quite big and I cant really see bits falling over board. Put an old towel down round the edges and that will catch anything.

Make sure the anchor is connected to something so the chain does not vanish !

If feeling brave fit a chain counter at the same time. Best ever invention.

 

[petem]

Why not turn it around and service it from the pontoon :encouragement:

I think that's a good idea. Would also allow me to put some cable ties on to mark the chain. Might even get the anchor as far as your boat!

 

[jrudge]

I think that's a good idea. Would also allow me to put some cable ties on to mark the chain. Might even get the anchor as far as your boat!

I have not tried the cable tie method, but if you are going to lay out the chain you may as well use spray paint as (a) I suspect cable ties will come off quite quickly ( many could tell me i am wrong on this) and (b) you can see paint from the helm.

you can buy chain fillers in colour, but they seem expensive and if you lay the chain in 10m lengths ( as long as you are not bothered about the multicoulred approach ) spraying it will take seconds and cost a few Euro

 

[petem]

I have not tried the cable tie method, but if you are going to lay out the chain you may as well use spray paint as (a) I suspect cable ties will come off quite quickly ( many could tell me i am wrong on this) and (b) you can see paint from the helm.

you can buy chain fillers in colour, but they seem expensive and if you lay the chain in 10m lengths ( as long as you are not bothered about the multicoulred approach ) spraying it will take seconds and cost a few Euro

Funnily enough, this month's MBY arrived yesterday and the latest 'How to" from John Mendez covers anchoring (which will no doubt lead to some interesting debate) and he suggested using cable ties to mark a chain. I seem to have three packs of different coloured large cable ties on board that I think would do the job well. I might give them a go unless someone says that it's doomed to failure. Obviously on a sports-cruiser (as opposed to F/B), you cannot see the chain when letting it out or retrieving it (not when you're my height anyway)!

 

[jrudge]

I just assume that with cable ties on the chain - as it runs through the winch they will be squashed and fail. The "commercial" product fills in the links with coloured plastic. The advantage of ties or inserts is in theory you can do it without laying out the chain as you dont get paint over spray, but without laying it out I cant see how you can accurately measure 10m to mark it!

Before I had a counter I measured the chain out per revolution ( 37cm) and the number of revolutions in 10 seconds ( mark the gypsey with masking tape) . That then let me calculate that 30 seconds = 10m out which frankly if you dont have a counter and you cant see the chain anyway is probably a simpler way to go!

Wireless counters are £200. Simple to fit, but mine did not like sharing the winch power supply so that was the only complexity.

 

[Tranona]

I have not tried the cable tie method, but if you are going to lay out the chain you may as well use spray paint as (a) I suspect cable ties will come off quite quickly ( many could tell me i am wrong on this) and (b) you can see paint from the helm.

you can buy chain fillers in colour, but they seem expensive and if you lay the chain in 10m lengths ( as long as you are not bothered about the multicoulred approach ) spraying it will take seconds and cost a few Euro

Cable ties last surprisingly well if you pull them tightly around a link and cut off the tails. I use a simple method with yellows for 5m and orange for 10m So yellow then orange, then one yellow, one orange, the 2 orange, 2 orange one yellow etc. Pretty idiot proof although you do need to have sight of the chain coming off the gypsy.

 

[matthewriches]

I have just used coloured ties and they've lasted a while. Although now starting to go brittle so I may fit a rode counter but at the same breath, might just buy a few more pretty coloured ties?

 

[Nick_H]

but without laying it out I cant see how you can accurately measure 10m to mark it!

c'mon J, a practical man like you ..!

Cut a piece of string 20m long, thread it through a link in the chain and hold both ends of the string, release anchor chain into the water until the string goes taught, mark that point, then release one end of the string, pull it through and start the process again. You obviously need to be in more than 10m of water for this to work, but you can always do multiples of 5m with 10m string.

Cable ties didn't last long for me, maybe it's gypsy specific. I bought the inserts and used snooker scale, red for 10 etc. You can't buy brown ones so used white for that. Put the whole pack on at each marking point to make it easier to see.

 

[petem]

Cut a piece of string 20m long, thread it through a link in the chain and hold both ends of the string, release anchor chain into the water until the string goes taught, mark that point, then release one end of the string, pull it through and start the process again. You obviously need to be in more than 10m of water for this to work, but you can always do multiples of 5m with 10m string.

I love it but I think it would be a good idea to deploy the whole length of the chain onto the pontoon as I want to check the state of the end of the chain and also the bitter end to check that it is actually rope. Probably also needs a good clean out too. Will clean windlass too.

 

[jrudge]

c'mon J, a practical man like you ..!

Cut a piece of string 20m long, thread it through a link in the chain and hold both ends of the string, release anchor chain into the water until the string goes taught, mark that point, then release one end of the string, pull it through and start the process again. You obviously need to be in more than 10m of water for this to work, but you can always do multiples of 5m with 10m string.

Cable ties didn't last long for me, maybe it's gypsy specific. I bought the inserts and used snooker scale, red for 10 etc. You can't buy brown ones so used white for that. Put the whole pack on at each marking point to make it easier to see.

Made me smile.

Good idea!

 

[simonfraser]

c'mon J, a practical man like you ..!

Cut a piece of string 20m long, thread it through a link in the chain and hold both ends of the string, release anchor chain into the water until the string goes taught, mark that point, then release one end of the string, pull it through and start the process again. You obviously need to be in more than 10m of water for this to work, but you can always do multiples of 5m with 10m string.

Cable ties didn't last long for me, maybe it's gypsy specific. I bought the inserts and used snooker scale, red for 10 etc. You can't buy brown ones so used white for that. Put the whole pack on at each marking point to make it easier to see.

why do you need more than 10m of water for this ?
does your chain float ?

 

[BruceK]

why do you need more than 10m of water for this ?
does your chain float ?

Think about it.

 

[timv]

yesterday I picked up a rope round both props and had to deploy the anchor and wait for assistance from the lifeboat which kindly towed us back to out marina. The depth was 20m when we picked up the rope and being a bit nervous I let nearly all my chain out while waiting for the lifeboat. when I tried the windlass it was too much and the clutch just slipped meaning we had to haul it all in by hand which was bloody hard work in the sun. Back at the marina I sorted out the chain and tried the windlass on just a few meters of chain. It pulled the chain in but slipped trying to pull the anchor over the bow, which it has never done before. My question is, can I tighten the clutch or is it now burnt out -1999 phantom 38
-thanks

 

[BruceK]

yesterday I picked up a rope round both props and had to deploy the anchor and wait for assistance from the lifeboat which kindly towed us back to out marina. The depth was 20m when we picked up the rope and being a bit nervous I let nearly all my chain out while waiting for the lifeboat. when I tried the windlass it was too much and the clutch just slipped meaning we had to haul it all in by hand which was bloody hard work in the sun. Back at the marina I sorted out the chain and tried the windlass on just a few meters of chain. It pulled the chain in but slipped trying to pull the anchor over the bow, which it has never done before. My question is, can I tighten the clutch or is it now burnt out -1999 phantom 38
-thanks

Chances are it needs the clutches cleaned and if necessary a light polishing with emery paper. You can tighten the clutch but unless you loosened it first tightening just masks the problem temporarily

 

[petem]

Think about it.

I had to!