Lofrans Tigres Windlass: Corrosion around Chain Stripper?

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20 Jun 2007
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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
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Further to this:
[Vas] check the area around the stripper for corrosion.
Yes, it's pretty bad. I'll post photos when I've sorted out the current problems.

Lofrans-Tigres-Chain-Stripper-2_zpsnmb0mpbv.png~original


Lofrans-Tigres-Chain-Stripper%201_zps0fxgobdp.png~original


I'm inclined to get some longer machine screws that will reach the bottom of the thread and fill in the damaged area with epoxy; possibly epoxy adhesive as I don't want to buy a whole pack.

Thoughts?
 
Nigel, that's brand new compared to mine ;)

In my case the whole area had disappeared, I'm not exaggerating!
Stripper was completely missing and one of the holes/threads had gone all the way inside and what was meant to be the gearbox oil was pouring out of the hole...
Took the whole casing to the welder and he cut the rotten/electrolysis damaged part and filled in new alloy and made new holes and threads for my custom stripper. Mind I didn't even know what's the distance between the threads so did my own design.

If you decide to go deeper in the casing, you'll go all the way through the casing. Not sure if that's a good idea. I'd suggest you do all that when you manage to remove the contents of the box and clean it inside out.
It's a typical issue of aluminum vs ss.
Bart's suggestion to wash the windlass with fresh water after each use is probably our best bet.

cheers

V.
 
That looks very much like a composition problem. Aluminium-copper alloys, e.g. LM2, are widely used for diecasting parts for components that do not have to cope with serious corrosion, e.g. automotive and architectural castings. These corrode badly in marine duties, and look just like yours. Well-made marine aluminium castings are in aluminium-magnesium alloys such as LM6 and last almost indefinitely.
 
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