Lofrans Airon Windlass - Tripping

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eggagent

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This 1000w horizontal chain windlass with drum is fitted at the bow in an under deck locker on a Rodman 1120. The boat is a 2001 model so presume the windlass and controls are of the same year.

The control box is in the dry by the helm.
We have plenty of power, 2 large batteries for 2 x engine start up and 2 service batteries.
100 amp Carling Breaker.

The gypsy is for 10mm chain. When I bought the boat it had 50m chain and a further 20m warp.

Boat used for fishing at anchor a lot so we took off the original chain, changed the gypsy to 8mm and now use both the drum and gypsy with 10m of 8mm chain and warp arrangement. It is not ideal but other than employ a GRP guy to rework the locker / bow arrangement we manage - for now.

Main problem is the windlass keeps tripping under load. Certainly with the 10mm chain it was hopeless with the breaker tripping all the time which I guess is down to combined weight of the chain and the large Delta anchor.

The rope / chain arrangement we have is working but its a two person job. One at the helm motoring forward while the other works the rope on the drum. Still the windlass trips.

Yesterday I have removed the control box and the 100amp breaker with a view to buying new to see if this would make any difference. The terminals on the motor are well greased and clear of any corrosion. The foot switches are also working fine. I wonder if it is the size of the cable installed. The Rodman wiring diagram I obtained is showing 25mm cable. Not sure if mine is in fact 25mm. The Airon manual shows it needs 35mm 2AWG 100 AMPs. I can't believe Rodman would install a windlass cable that is too small and not fit for purpose.

I took the Lofrans control box apart and the contactors show some signs of wear although not heavily pitted. The Carling breaker appears to be functioning ok.

Any one out there with a Rodman with similar windlass problems?

Any help appreciated.

brgds
Eggagent
 
the size of the cable has nothing to do with your problem imo,
I think that the specs of the breaker might have changed during the years, and due to frequent tripping

I would replace it by a slightly bigger cirquit breaker, 120Amps fe.
or you could asc the Lofrans service dept,
I have a new service contact over there (company is completely reorganised under the new management)
I'll send that later
they promise to give better service now (?)
 
I have exact same windlass in a Rodman 900 with 50m of 10mm chain. I also use for fishing/diving and anchor regularly, windlass has only ever tripped once when I got fouled in a wreck. With all the chain out there is a notable strain on the windlass for the first 10-20m retrieval but I just take it easy and make sure the boat is directly above anchor, it does not trip though.

I have found it an absolute nightmare going from chain to warp, just cannot get the drum to grip the warp sufficiently so I usually try and stick to chain only. If I am anchoring very deep I use a different anchor and use the alderney ring method to retrieve.
 
I had the same problem a few months ago, I have a different boat but tripping a circuit breaker which is situated in the engine bay and is very annoying to have to go down there. Suggest that you check the earthing, as by cleaning all the terminals I got less tripping. It still does it on occasions but it is much better.
 
Thanks for all your replies so far

I've ordered a new 100 amp Carling Breaker and Lofrans control box in the hope one or both is the problem.
I've all Carling breakers on a panel and cannot find a larger 120amp. Is there any others that are the same size that would fit in the panel?

Good to hear is working reasonably fine in another Rodman. We switched to an 8mm gypsy with 10m chain and 100m warp. Free fall on the drop. On the retrieve the warp goes around the chin gypsy in the normal manner then we take a couple turns around the drum, all the time motoring ahead. Its not perfect but much lighter than all chain arrangement and the constant tripping problem mentioned.

To be honest, as a rod and line fisherman who moves and anchors a lot I've never been lucky with windlasses the worst IMO Simpson Lawrence. motors burnt out, tripping etc. Anchorlift worked fine for a while but mechanical parts failed repeatedly and now Lofrans. I guess you can't beat the old drum which is tried and tested but pretty ugly on a sports fisher.

The contacts are not corroded at all although I will take off an clean up when I install the new control box and breaker.

I took the drum, gypsy and shims off the shaft and all well greased. Is there anything else?

I've contacted RBS Marine who will look into this for me.

Will report back as we progress.

Thanks again for any pointers / input

Eggagent
 
eggagent said:
I took the drum, gypsy and shims off the shaft and all well greased. Is there anything else?
Click to expand...

I think ppl are talking about a full dismantle and clean and fill with new oil :D

mine was in a right mess and only took a few evenings work and 15euro in seals to get it back to smooth operation. I've posted a thread on that rebuilt somewhere during winter 2011-12.

cheers

V.
 
It is sitting on the bow getting wet? and some of that wet has got into it, pull it apart and no doubt you find the problem. Usually brushes and bearings knackered if you are lucky, or motor winding's on the way out. The circuit breaker is there to protect motor overload.
 
My Lorams 1000 had similar problem but then stopped altogether. I had the circuits checked and these were fine, problem being within the motor. Was told I needed to replace the motor, cost around £900. Thought I would check it out myself and found the issue. With the Loframs 1000 the solenoids that switch power circuits up or down were working intermittently and are intergrated with the motor housing. When checking the wiring every thing looked fine with good solder joint to the solenoids. I found these solenoid solder joints although looking okey were dry joints causing intermittent contact. I re soldered these joimts and the unit now works perfectly (saved £900). With other Loframs systems I believe the solenoids are located in the control box, however it maybe worth resoldering these joints to see if it cures your problem. Best of luck.
 
omega2 said:
It is sitting on the bow getting wet? and some of that wet has got into it, pull it apart and no doubt you find the problem. Usually brushes and bearings knackered if you are lucky, or motor winding's on the way out. The circuit breaker is there to protect motor overload.
Click to expand...

The windlass is horizontal in an under deck locker and is relatively protected from the weather. The boat is a Rodman 1120, the windlass is bolted to a fore & aft bulkhead in the locker. The windlass motor sits behind this. There is some rusting on the top of the casing due to condense I guess and its of course 12 years old.
I've changed the breaker and the control box and need to test now under load. If I get chance I intend to take the motor off the boat and get it checked for piece of mind.
That looks a lengthy job.
 
Thanks for input. I've a control box/solenoid for this inside the boat. I've just changed this. I did take the box apart to look at the contactors, while these were marked I would have thought they would be still be ok. We shall see once the windlass is put under load again during next fishing trip.
 
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