lock washboards inside and out?

[zefender]

For offshore work, I change my normal perspex single washboard for a three piece ply jobbie. I'm told that I need a means of securing the boards (or at least presumably just the top one) with a mechanism operable from both the cockpit and inside the boat. I'm sure I've seen an ad for a company that makes one - but does anyone have a better memory or idea of how to make such a fixing?

 

[tcm]

are you interpreting this a bit too strictly? does it really mean that says a bolt cd be at top inside so no prob inside and/or you cd be outside and operate it by pushing back the hatch a bit and reaching the bolt? I mean, if no reaching in is allowed in cos of RULES or mainly cos sliding hatch jammed somehow... they can't get out anyway without smashing/bashing the top hatch, so best get on with that first?

painting the insides of the three-part things a bit is good to avoid multiple frustrating attempts at fitting.

 

[TigaWave]

As suggested by the surveyor who coded my boat, we had a very simple system, using a small cleat on the inside and outside of the hatch, a thin piece of line was passed through a hole in the top panel, round a small pulley attached to sliding hatch and back to outside cleat.

With the rope/line cleated both sides the hatch could not move, undo either end and it was easy to slide the hatch open.

Wash boards were held with simple pins on lines, and also always attached by a line to the boat, so that in the event of a complete roll, even if somehow they dropped out they would not be lost. We still had a spare piece of heavy ply that was big enough to make a temporary cover for any windows or hatches that may have been broken.

The rope approach seemed very safe, a metal clip or clasp could potentially get bent or broken, (maybe as a mast comes down) trying to un bend a metal clip fixing or turn a lock when the handles been broken off might be difficult.

I was very happy with the surveyors solution, it was also cheap and easy to fix, as well as being easy to remove when not needed.

The surveyor was from Mecal in Plymouth

Neil

 

[TigaWave]

For the MCA code (I dont have a copy in front of me) the complete opening had to be able to be openable from either side but at the same time held securely shut when closed.

Which is kind of what you want really, isn't it?

 

[zefender]

Moi, a pedant? No, the sliding hatch has a lip on it and the washboards sit behind this, so preventing the hatch from sliding/opening when they are in place. But hang on a mo, that can't be right, otherwise I'd never be able to open it. I know... there's a bracket attached to the underside of the hatch which has a hole in it. The (perspex) washboard lock bolt fits through this hole to lock them together. So all I need is to fit another one of these (maybe a stronger version and then use Tigawave's excellent but simple cleat and rope thingie.

Unless anyone else has a better idea....

 

[halcyon]

Our boat has a very simple solution to the problem.
On the back lip of the hatch there pivots two brass plates each side, about 100 mm x 40 mm x 6 mm. These are linked on a common shaft so they move as a pair, at the bottom end is a knob inside and out. With the washboards in, and the hatch shut, they lie either side of the washboards. Stopping the hatch sliding back or forward, and locking in washboards, and can be opened inside or out without tieing knots. When not in use a bungy between the knobs hold the arms horizontal and allows the hatch to slide, they can also lock the hatch forward if you like.

Brian

 

[Evadne]

We have something very similar to TigaWave, which I believe was fitted when new. A length of webbing that goes over the boards and is secured by a twist lock (like you get for securing sprayhoods etc.) at either end. The sliding hatch can close over the top of it if required. If I was sailing offshore very much (or at all) then I'd probably replace the twistlock with something more substantial, but as the most it has to hold is the weight of three small pieces of plywood then it doesn't have to be very big.

 

[iangrant]

A length of "string" attached to the washboard clipped to an "eye" inside the companionway will pass muster with the scrutineer in Las Palmas. For "washboards secured read attached,
cheers

Ian

 

[tcm]

Re: rules in las palmas

so how does it work - y0ou book, sendem the loot, then they inspect the boat and say hah ! no, wrong see, you CAN'T come to the party either here OR in the carbee so har har and all the more beer for us! I mean, surely once booked in, can you "fail"?

 

[iangrant]

Re: rules in las palmas

The rules are based the RORC which are published to all entrants. There is help and "guidance" with prep at Las Palmas in the two weeks prior to the off.

I'm surprised and pleased with the documentation and support so early on.


Ian

 

[peterb]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm sure I've seen an ad for a company that makes one - but does anyone have a better memory or idea of how to make such a fixing?

[/ QUOTE ]

The thing you want is called a "Fastnet Lock". Not sure who makes it, though, and a Google search didn't throw anything up. Try a good chandler!

 

[iangrant]

Sorry just your post properly .. I'll look tommorow at what is on Asterie. It does just that secures from inside and out and when youleave the boat a padlock fits in the ring.

I'll take a picture and give you the name

Ian

 

[tcm]

ah but - rules in las palmas

fair enuf. But with RORC, rules is rules innit. Whereas on the ARCm it's a rally. I think should zefender should do nothing at all, and have the delightful mrs zef look all upset if they say anything slightly untoward, and all the stewards will rush around with cleats and thingys to fix her boat.

 

[iangrant]

Re: ah but - rules in las palmas

I reckon they just about got it sorted, you don't have to take their advice i guess, but me not having crossed an ocean before thinks i'll go along with what is on the paper! safe bet they know a lot more than me..

Of course the bold man could just go across anyway - you take yer choice!

Ian

 

[zefender]

Re: ah but - rules in las palmas

Mrs Zef most likely to biff them on the nose and then me for lack of prep, putting life at risk etc etc.

Thanks Peterb for superb memory bank. Also to Ian - much appreciated. Just got Duogen, new batteries, SSB receiver and watermaker to fit and we're pretty much there!

 

[Guest]

The requirment is to meet the ORC Special Regulations.

Therefore is only mandatory for racing.

Easy to do, all that is rquired is a cupboard door bolt, £1.25 from Wilko's.

You could get a Marine Engineer to do it for lots more.

Suggest you download the regs from the ORC site, you may find lots more that you boat needs to comply with, and maybe some that cannot be achieved, depending on the design.

 

[zefender]

It's for the ARC and they use ISAF Offshore Special Regs as their guiding principle. It applies for the transat trip, whether in cruising or racing divisions.

How can a cupboard door bolt be operable from outside and inside?

 

[tcm]

you cd have lickle hole above the bolt, the reach thru the hole and undo the bolt.

I still don't get why it has to be lockable from both inside and out: if the companionway hatch slides over then that has to be slid back first anyway. Then, once it's slid back, any ole bolt cd be undone from either inside standing on steps or from outside leaning over a teeny bit.

Mind you rules is rules, and it is obvioulsy very important in order to protect against er er what? Flying fish breaking into the saloon and cooking themselves?

 

[zefender]

Flying fish indeed - no it's to help prevent sunburn of course

 

[Ships_Cat]

Here in NZ, NZ registered cruising boats have to meet approx Category 1 before they will be cleared by customs for departure to a foreign port. The following is just one approach but is what we use.

Our hatch lock is a spring loaded ss slam latch which mounts vertically at the top of the top washboard out to one side. The latch is opened by pulling a ring at the bottom of the fitting which has a cam type action pulling the latch open - the bolt part of the latch goes into a striker plate on the bottom rear edge of the hatch.

From the ring is a line that runs through the washboard (drilled at a steep downwards angle so that the line runs freely and so as water does not run in) which you just pull to open the latch from outside.

I have tried to find a photo of the latch itself on the internet but have not been able to. It looks like a barrel with the actuating ring sitting at right angles opposite to the mounting side at one end and a slam latch just like any door latch at the other. If interested I can photograph ours over the weekend - where you would find one over there to buy, I wouldn't have a clue /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

You mention 3 washboards, Cat 1 requires that the companionway be capable of being blocked off (by the washboards) up to the level of the local sheerline and you must still be able to get in and out through the companionway with it so blocked. In our case we worked it with 2 washboards. Furthermore, if you happen to have an open transom then the bottom edge of the companionway itself is not allowed to be lower than the local sheerline.

If you wish to use lanyards to secure the washboards one can drill a hole through the washboard close to one side so that it slopes steeply downwards to the outside (so water does not run down the hole to inside the boat). If the lanyard is passed through that with a stopper knot at each end it can be tied to a saddle (or cleat, we prefer saddles as they do not catch on clothing as you pass by) mounted inside down below the washboard on the side of the companionway (so the washboard is pulled downwards) and also tied to something outside in the cockpit if that is easier (we have a "D" ring for tethers to be clipped to just outside the companionway and low down which we can use). The lanyards have to be long enough so that the boards can be removed and remain tethered to the boat.

Also, if you use lanyards that go through a hole in the washboards then apart from ensuring that the holes they go through are angled downwards towards the outside, make sure that your saddles/cleats inside are placed so that the line can be hung up above the hole in the board they go through when the boards are in but use of the lanyards is not warranted (including when you leave the boat moored). Else you will find that rainwater wicks down the lanyard and runs all over the sole inside the boat - a surprising amount can come in. For the top board, where there is no saddle for the lanyard for a higher board to hang the lanyard through, we hang it through the line from the slam latch referred to above, between the latch and where it passes through the washboard.

Some use barrel bolts, which are also accepted, on the washboards - personally I do not like them as they have to be perfectly aligned and are fiddly with wet cold fingers. They also damage paintwork, etc when the boards are removed.

John