Lithium fusing......

[Kelpie]

Perfect.

I think the take home from this thread is you don't need lots of blue boxes. Also it pays to think about what you intend to use. For example at home the kettle is 2kW. On the boat the little Argos kettle is just 0.8L. Half full is the perfect amount for two mugs of tea, so saves boiling more than needed as does cooking with lids which also helps keep the condensation down and the heat in the pan.

We did look at electric convention ovens running at 1500w and then bought this. At 580w brilliant for cooking and baking.

Pete

This might sound a bit sad but I've taken to measuring our the exact number of mugs of water in to the kettle. And start by pouring what is already in the kettle in to the measuring mug. The time this takes is saved in quicker boiling.

 

[geem]

Perfect.

I think the take home from this thread is you don't need lots of blue boxes. Also it pays to think about what you intend to use. For example at home the kettle is 2kW. On the boat the little Argos kettle is just 0.8L. Half full is the perfect amount for two mugs of tea, so saves boiling more than needed as does cooking with lids which also helps keep the condensation down and the heat in the pan.

We did look at electric convention ovens running at 1500w and then bought this. At 580w brilliant for cooking and baking.

Pete

We drink a lot of tea. Our teapot is a 6 mug job. The kettle also takes 2 litres. Our electric kettle on the boat is 3kw. We don't use it unless on shore power ( almost never) but the kettle on the induction hob is perfect for us.

 

[noelex]

We boil water in an electric vacuum insulated kettle. It is a little over 2kw.

The vacuum insulation was excellent in saving some power, especially as we usually heat the water to 90°C. The kettle can be set to cut off at any temperature between 40°C and 100°C. This tends to make better tea and coffee, saves a little power and perhaps most importantly reduces the amount of steam that is released.

The only issue is that the vacuum insulation failed after about a year of use, hopefully a one off problem.

 

[mattonthesea]

Our induction hob is 2000w. From power settings from 1000-2000w, it goes in 200w steps. Each step matches the power on our energy meter.
Below 1000w the power steps are pulsed so these aren't the actual power of the setting, just an average.
The higher settings are great for boiling the kettle or brings pans to the boil fast. If you are boiling the kettle, with 2000w instead of 1500w, you don't use any more energy with a 2000w hob than a 1500w hob. The 1500w hob just takes longer. If your system can take the higher induction hob loads, then why not?
A boat wired for 24v has no issue with the higher hob rating as for the same lithium BMS, we run it at half the amps.
Our induction hob cost £26 from Aldi about 15 years ago. In tests online, it's still rated as the best portable single ring, induction hob.

Our vacuum cleaner is a shop vac from Toolstation. 700w

Does anyone know about the power delivery from the IKEA 2000W portable induction hob? It's a good product but I'm not sure whether its settings are full on power - full off power, or lower power on-off at the lower settings - as in Geem's description.

The issue is really whether I'll have to buy a new job when I got the inverter.

 

[Pete7]

Does anyone know about the power delivery from the IKEA 2000W portable induction hob? It's a good product but I'm not sure whether its settings are full on power - full off power, or lower power on-off at the lower settings - as in Geem's description.

The issue is really whether I'll have to buy a new job when I got the inverter.

Does this help, there is a section in the manual which shows a power level for each displayed increment:

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/manuals/tillreda-portable-induction-hob-1-zone-white__AA-2234817-4-1.pdf

The actual draw from the batteries will be higher because the inverter will want some power and be 85-90% efficient at best.

 

[Pete7]

Does this help, there is a section in the manual which shows a power level for each displayed increment:

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/manuals/tillreda-portable-induction-hob-1-zone-white__AA-2234817-4-1.pdf

The actual draw from the batteries will be higher because the inverter will want some power and be 85-90% efficient at best.

Might be worth reading this, although its for the double hob: Testing of Ikea dual induction hob - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

 

[Kelpie]

So yesterday at the boat jumble I acquired a rather nice looking combined bus bar and MRBF fuse terminal:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source

I'm about to add a second 280Ah lithium pack, I'm thinking of using this to combine the positives with either a 250A or 300A mrbf fuse for each pack. This will then be followed by a class T, rating to be determined.

Is this overkill?

Also, seeing as each BMS is only rated for 200A, maybe I should keep the fuse rating down nearer that? I'm using 70mm² cable which is rated at 485A but don't anticipate having loads anywhere near that. In fact I don't think I could exceed 220A even with everything turned on.

 

[migs]

'250A or 300A mrbf fuse for each pack'

Surely each BMS must protected with a 200A fuse as anything bigger could overload your 200A BMS. However, if you are pulling 220A and one pack goes down, you will immediately lose the other one. With a 2P4S configuration you will get 1,120A (for 30s) - nice. In this configuration you don't get a spare BMS, but ours were so cheap I keep a couple of extra ones onboard (plus a spare £25 relay).

 

[Kelpie]

'250A or 300A mrbf fuse for each pack'

Surely each BMS must protected with a 200A fuse as anything bigger could overload your 200A BMS. However, if you are pulling 220A and one pack goes down, you will immediately lose the other one. With a 2P4S configuration you will get 1,120A (for 30s) - nice. In this configuration you don't get a spare BMS, but ours were so cheap I keep a couple of extra ones onboard (plus a spare £25 relay).

I think you're right, I should fuse at 200A per pack and maybe 250A for the class T.
The biggest consumer is the 3kva inverter (200A) and even if everything else is running simultaneously there's only about 20A, if that.
I don't really like running these things at full whack, it will very rapidly expose any weaknesses. I've actually got my BMS set up to only delivery 180A, just to give a bit of margin