Liquid resin for engine mount?

[Caer Urfa]

We have a member who has pulled a bolt out from his engine mount bracket and there 'appears' to be nothing inside the hole and he needs to refit another mounting bolt.

At present we can not see what was holding the bolt in the first place but it was threaded, there is also if you look a small plugged hole on the side and we are not sure if that was to secure the bolt.

One idea is to fill the hole with liquid resin and fit 'all thread' and let it set?? BUT, will it be strong enough?

What have other done and what have they used??
engine is a BMC/Thorneycroft

Mike

 

[sailorman]

drill out the foot & re-tap the bed oversized

 

[daveyw]

Is that "plug" actually a bar with a threaded hole halfway along for the mounting bolt to screw into?

 

[sailorman]

Is that "plug" actually a bar with a threaded hole halfway along for the mounting bolt to screw into?

you are viewing an engine foot with a flexible mount under it. the hole is where a holding down bolt should be

 

[Avocet]

I'm curious along the same lines as Daveyw. There seems to be a pice of bar running across the bearer, more or less under where the hole where the bolt used to be - between the bearer and the photographer's toe. Could that have been drilled and tapped to accept the missing bolt - (a bit like an Ikea flat-pack furniture toggle bolt)?

 

[sailorman]

I'm curious along the same lines as Daveyw. There seems to be a pice of bar running across the bearer, more or less under where the hole where the bolt used to be - between the bearer and the photographer's toe. Could that have been drilled and tapped to accept the missing bolt - (a bit like an Ikea flat-pack furniture toggle bolt)?

you mean the dowel looking thing, it would be of insufficient dia to accept the engine bolt

 

[White Horse]

So you need a machine mount with a stud either side. A decent glue to glue the stud in the hole and to the floor. Lift engine and secure to new stud. The stud in the floor ( Glued In Place ) will stop the engine moving backwards and forwards and the weight of the engine will hold it in the hole. I have found that a mixture of micro balloons ( West Filler Glass ) and 5 minute epoxy will glue most things to every thing.

If you are worried about the glue mix. I repaired the dashboard stalk on my Ford when I managed to snap it in two. I have used it to stick cases back together and repair a badly damaged paper cutter. Try it. The micro balloons are actually glass. With a stiffish mixture it sets like glass. Ones set its a chisel job to remove.

 

[Tradewinds]

you mean the dowel looking thing, it would be of insufficient dia to accept the engine bolt

I'm in an arguementative mood tonight .

Roger, I don't agree. If that's the full dowel diameter we can see there's plenty material in the dowel to take the bolt.

But then, what do I know

 

[sailorman]

I'm in an arguementative mood tonight .

Roger, I don't agree. If that's the full dowel diameter we can see there's plenty material in the dowel to take the bolt.

But then, what do I know

my eye test is due

 

[Dave_Seager]

I would examine the other, similar bolts on the engine mountings to try to understand how it was originally fitted.

 

[sailorman]

I would examine the other, similar bolts on the engine mountings to try to understand how it was originally fitted.

much better to have a s/s plate bonded into the engine bed

 

[White Horse]

One has to ask the question was it ever fitted in the first place of just left to sit there. It would not be the first time that the apprentice failed to fit something

 

[MrCramp]

I would use a piece of fence wire or coat hanger with an "L" shape and push it down the hole and have a routel around and see if you can hear anything moving. I suspect there is a threaded bar down there that has moved. Plan B would be to drill out the dowel thing at the side and see if there is anything there.

If all else fails I would elongate the dowel hole and make a threaded bar insert for the foot to bolt into.

 

[ianat182]

Perhaps the cotter pin can be punched out, and a larger still diameter pin with a thread, as suggested, will do the job without any resin at all needed.

Perhaps the bolt was sheared when unscrewed which would be different proposition for the pin removal; i.e. a new hole drilled slightly smaller than the threaded bolt might enable an Easyout removal bit , or tap of the correct size to remove the remaining 'shell' and a new bolt of the original size to be fitted.

ianat182

 

[gljnr1983]

I would recon the dowel/plug will be a brass or bronze rod that has snapped when cracking the bolt loose,i would try punch it out and get one machined to match.

 

[William_H]

Engine mount

A question which comes to mind is "did this break in service or did it break on trying to remove the bolt".
If it broke in service then presumably this is the mount side that gets lifted from the torque of the engine.
In which case you will need something stronger than the original.
I am thinking of a stud welded to a steel plate perhaps 125 mm long the width of the bearer.
To get the height for the mount correct you would have to grind out the top of the bearer to the thickness of the plate. Now the plate can be bolted down with 2 or more bolts into the bearer. This can be done either by tapping into the hopefully solid f/g resin bearer or by epoxying in studs. Or alternatively the plate with stud welded can be a U channel so that it can be bolted to the bearer sideways with 4 or more screws or even through bolted.

If the stud broke on trying to remove it you might do better to replace as original design ie by replacing the dowel. good luck olewill

 

[Caer Urfa]

Cheers guys for the input it's 'all food for thought' and he will have to investigate further.
Mike