linseed oil

[surekandoo]

Is there likely to be a problem if I use boiled linseed oil on the teak slats on my cockpit seating.

Previously they had been varnished but this is now starting to flake and needs sanding off.

I prefer to use some sort of oil finish and have found in the past that teak oil doesn't last.

Advice please.

 

[Tranona]

OK if you want sticky rear end and something that will collect all the dirt.

Teak is best left bare and regularly washed. If you do want a coating, degrease thoroughly and use a porous woodstain such as Sikkens Novatec/top, or a stain that you would use on doors and windows. Will not flake and will give a matt finish

 

[2nd_apprentice]

Woodstain serves a completely different purpose and won't give any sort of protection. Neither would linseed oil remain sticky after drying. I agree however that teak should be best left bare. Oil quickly wears and doesn't offer a great deal of protection, some owners have been very pleased with Deckolje (sp?) though. I'd rather try that than linseed oil.

 

[Tranona]

I have used woodstain of the type I suggested for 15 years on teak, mahogany, iroko, oak and cedar and it provides far superior protection to any varnish or oil. Being porous it does not form a hard film and wears ratherr than flakes as most varnishes do. Think you might be confusing it with stains used to colour wood or enhance grain before varnishing. Completely different things.

Never had much luck with Deks Olje. D1 just evaporates, and despite claims does not soak past the surface and D2 is fine when it is first applied, but once you get the slightest crack in the film it flakes - but not evenly, making it a pig to remove. Did my 35' mast with it many years ago. Lasted 2 years until it started flaking. Sikkens does at least 5 years before needing any touching up.

 

[2nd_apprentice]

According to their data sheet Sikkens is a pigmented woodstain with alkyd binder. Why else would it come in a range of colours? Haven't tried it myself, so I'll have to take your word for it re durability. Fine with me. I've been quite satisfied with Le Tonkinois, "Huile d'Impression" and varnish but haven't used it on teak.

 

[Tintin]

I've used boiled linseed and it is fine. Easy to apply. Not sticky. Doesnt attract crud.

 

[markdj]

We tend to use starbrite teak tropical sealer which looks like a light coloured brown paint but goes on with a cloth to colour the wood a rich freshly sanded look. It does require a full preclean and using oxalic acid or teak brightener before use.

Even in sunlight it does not go black, lasts for about 18 months to 5 years be pending on how wet the decks get but is very easy to reapply.

 

[Tranona]

According to their data sheet Sikkens is a pigmented woodstain with alkyd binder. Why else would it come in a range of colours? Haven't tried it myself, so I'll have to take your word for it re durability. Fine with me. I've been quite satisfied with Le Tonkinois, "Huile d'Impression" and varnish but haven't used it on teak.

You were suggesting it would not give protection when the opposite is the case. You can get very light pigments as it is mixed to order. You don't have to take my word for it - comes out top for longevity, ease of application and cost in the long term tests published in Classic Boat and in PBO. Only negative is that is is not gloss, so if you are looking for a furniture standard finish look elsewhere. If you want durability and protection (as on slats on a cockpit seat) it is worth consideration.

 

[KellysEye]

Linseed oil turns the teak black over time, I supect UV does it. The problem with teak oil is it contains linseed oil but it doesn't say that on the pack. If you want to oil the teak buy pure teak oil but it's not cheap and chandlers don't sell it.