Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 windlass

[Tranona]

6 years ago I posted on a thread about choosing a windlass that I was disappointed that Bavaria had chosen to fit a Lewmar on new boats rather than the Lofrans that was on my previous one. Now my concerns have proved right as last week it seized solid as I was dropping the hook in Swanage Bay. Fortunately with only 5 metres or so of chain out which I was able to get back in manually - and had enough daylight to get back to my berth in Poole. Not sure what is seized but can only rock it back and forth a little with the manual handle.

Fortunately it is very neatly installed and accessible behind a panel in forecabin so removing and replacing should be straightforward. Part of me says just replace it with the same as nothing else will fit - the moulding is designed specifically for this model - because they are "cheap" - perhaps a reason for the short life, but might have a go at repairing it.

Does anybody have experience of stripping and rebuilding this model?

 

[CJ13]

We were in the same situation with a BAV Factory fitted Pro Series 1000. After fitting 2 replacement motors and a new shaft over 6 years I changed it for a Lofrans Cayman. Should have done it sooner!
The Lewmar is easy to disassemble and replace parts, but in my opinion not suitable for regular anchoring.

 

[Tranona]

Unfortunately on the 33 there is not enough clearance under the locker lid, nor is the platform big enough to take a Cayman. I thought this Lewmar would last longer here as although I anchor a lot by UK standards it is still only 30 or so times a year and rarely more than 20m chain out. In the 6 years roughly 250-300 operations. Good thing no longer in Greece because that would not much more than a year's use!

Perhaps I will take it apart, but a new one is only(?) £660 and that will see me out.

 

[pvb]

Perhaps I will take it apart, but a new one is only(?) £660 and that will see me out.

Don't ever say that! You're just tempting fate.

 

[sailorbenji]

If there's no water ingress, it's most likely the roller bearing clutch that's seized up or sheared....available spare (newer version beefed up).

 

[typhoonNige]

Quite straightforward to work on but I’ve only discovered this because it isn’t very robust or reliable. I fitted a second replacement motor to mine a few weeks ago. To be fair though mine gets a lot of use and it's a cheap option

 

[Tranona]

Just taken it apart. shaft and gypsy are fine but motor seized solid. Just ordered a new so all I have to do now is figure out how to remove it from the housing.

 

[coopec]

Just taken it apart. shaft and gypsy are fine but motor seized solid. Just ordered a new so all I have to do now is figure out how to remove it from the housing.

Is there anything relevant here at all?

 

[typhoonNige]

Just taken it apart. shaft and gypsy are fine but motor seized solid. Just ordered a new so all I have to do now is figure out how to remove it from the housing.

You’ll need 4mm and 5mm Allen keys and some sealant for where the wires exit the casing. My new motor came with grommets for the wires but these are more for chafe protection. Take care not to lose the little spacers that go around the screws when splitting the case. The gasket is also easily damaged but reusable. Good luck!

 

[Tranona]

Thanks. I have the motor out, and discovered the spacers. Ordered new motor. The wires were sealed in and will do the same with the new ones. The main gasket was firmly stuck to the casing so have not disturbed that except to access the third screw holding the motor in. The base gasket was also good so will re-use that.

 

[Tranona]

Is there anything relevant here at all?

Thanks for this. The motor was in the end easy to remove and there are no problems with the rest of the windlass. Mine does not have that free fall mechanism, just a simple clutch to allow the gypsy to run free.