Leaking water pump

[Richard_H]

Did a great job in replacing the impellor on my MD2040 volvo - however on running the engine noticed I have a slight drip from the gap just behind the impellor housing. Probably leaking at a rate of x1 drip every five seconds - can any one advise on how easy a job it is to now relace the seal in the pump - never done this before!
Much advice appreciated - or shall I call in the xperts?

Best wishes

Richard H
Tidecatcher /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[alan]

Very easy to replace the seal on most pumps. Usually located behind the impellor and can be removed with some long-nosed pliers - be careful not to damage the shaft though. There were a few posts on this subject a few months ago, try searching for water pump leaks.

Alan.

 

[Heckler]

its just a simple lip seal, use a thin screw driver down the side of it to distort it and then hook it out, replace (keyparts or volspec) by using a socket of the same diameter as the outside and gently tap it in, i use a bit of blue volvo bullet seal grease fingered into the lip part. i clean this out every year with a cotton bud and put new grease in ( a tip of llyn marine) every winter. the seal i replaced 3 years ago is still going strong.
i think i posted this in some detail on the beneteau site forums (see link below)
stu
www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk

 

[Stemar]

One thing - don't ignore it. If you do you can get crevice corrosion cutting a ring in the shaft. Trust me, you REALLY don't want to know the price of a new shaft.

It brings a whole new meaning to the word shafted /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[10tuskar]

Do you have an old Pump Shaft ?
If so could you PM me as I can make shafts out of 314,316 S.S. I have a lathe and have already made shafts for Yanmar Engines.
P.S. this is just a hobby.
Bill

 

[Stemar]

Thanks for the offer, Bill, but I had acess to a good second hand pump. I will bear you in mind, though, just in case

 

[INKABOAT]

Agreed about the scored ring on the shaft and I believe the repair kit was about £140!!!!! I was able to move the shaft between the two bearings and create a new surface for the lip seal. Nuff said!

 

[jerryat]

The seals are almost certainly available from general seal suppliers. If you can give the OD and ID's (or someone on here can tell you) to the supplier I'm sure they'll sort one for you.

As others have stressed, do NOT delay dealing with the problem as all sorts of evil things will result. Just a tip. Most of this type of little seal have a spring around the insert to 'squeeze' it against the shaft. Most are made of mild steel and therefore happily rust out pretty quickly.

An engineer in the local company where we source our water pump seals, told me a super little trick. When you buy the seal(s) also buy the 'O' ring equivalent of the metal spring. Remove the spring and fit the 'O' ring instead.

Doesn't rust and does the same job ad-infinitum. Secondary 'goodie', is that if you are caught out (with another leak and without a spare seal) you can just put a slightly smaller 'O' in to hold the seal against the shaft as a temporary 'get you home' measure.

 

[Avocet]

Most bearing factors should be able to offer equivalent seals with either stainless or bronze springs in them for a few pence extra compared to the ones with carbon steel springs. I replaced mine a few years ago and I think they were something like £3 - £4 each. The part number may still be visible on the old seal but if not, they are often simple numbers like the first two digits will be the outer diameter of the hole they go in, the second two will be the shaft diameter on which they are supposed to seal and then there will probably be a single digit (the thickness) and maybe a few letters for seal material and spring material. If you take the old seal and / or housing & shaft to your local BSL (or similar) I'll bet they can sort you out for very little money.

 

[jerryat]

Hi Avocet,

Assume your post was directed at Richard H, however I agree that alternatives to mild steel springs might be available, but this is definitely not so in the Factor companies I've tried here in Plymouth.

The 'O' ring mod has worked perfectly for us for 16 years on our current boat, and for many years before that on our others. Because we are usually long term cruising, I tend to buy the things six at a time, and the local chap switches the springs for the 'O' rings before I buy 'em!! Saves time and ensures I get the coorect size.

 

[eebygum]

10tuskar,
Can you do a shaft for a Yanmar 2GM pump ?

If so may need to get in touch as I did a complete rebuild on the pump last year. The shaft looked worn however usable but only ran for 30 mins after replacing.
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
May need to consider replacing this season so may PM you.