Leaking Water Heater

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Squintstream

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Evening Gents!

Fist post so please go easy and hope somebody can help /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

My father in law has recently purchased a Beneteau boat and it has a Quick BX25 Nautic water heater already fitted.

On switching everything on and filling up the system (after winter) he's noticed a leak around the thermostat.

He wants to investigate further and possibly switch the element gasket, However he's a little unsure of how to remove the thermostat and get to the element. Is it just the case that the thermostat (240v positive and negative feed are located on the front) casing just pulls off? Or is it necessary to remove a screw or un-clip anything?

Many thanks in advance for your help!


Charlie /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Googled and managed to download the users manual, let me know if this is the model and I will PM it to you.

Looks like the thermostat (10) as usual is located in its own pocket (therefore should be no leaks when withdrawn) which forms part of the heating element housing (9) - remove cover/lid (12) and withdraw t'stat (stating the obvious - make certain the electrics are off first) having dissconected the cabling, it should just slide out. See following image:

NauticBX25.jpg


You will need a large immersion heater spanner to remove immersion heater! If the leak is very small try to get hold of some LSX from a plumbers merchant and smear around it. You sometimes find if the system is allowed to heat-up the leak can, due to scaling, sometimes (rare) seal itself back-up, but of course its best to deal with it properly if you can!
 
I have the same manufacture hot water tank in my boat and I am currently replacing my immersion heater. The owners manual states that if the tank is not drained & allowed to freeze, then the heating element will be damaged. In my case I was lucky that the tank (stainless steel) was not ruptured, but there was no leakage. However when I switched the heater on, the RCD blew ! Checking with my megger confirmed that the element was shorted to earth. I had to remove the tank from the boat to gain access. The immersion heater nut was smaller than the regular domestic size but I managed its removal using stilsons (plumbers adjustable spanner). I have a 3/4 drive socket set & if there is a socket with sufficient depth I will use that to install the new element which I hope to pick up from Aladdins Cave today ! BTW The old element did not appear damaged to the naked eye, probably hairline fracture.
 
Thanks all!

I'd found the diagram via their website and had assumed the same, but just wanted to see if anybody had any experience of the unit.

Will tell him to give it a go (what's the worst that can happen /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ).

Does anyone know of any stockists where I can source a new seal/element? Google didn't seem to be too helpful.

PS The tank was drained over the winter. It's since filling the tank after de-winterising.

Thanks again all, much appreciated!


Charlie /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
We have a similar boiler....and a leak too!

The thermostat is just held in by the two spade terminals which feed power to the element. Just wiggle and pull and it will come out.
The heater element requires a 55mm spanner, which is considerably smaller than a domestic immersion heater spanner.
I found it difficult to find a gasket in stock anywhere. Mine had to be ordered through a chandlery, via Unipart Marine (the UK distributor for Quick) who had to get it from Quick in Italy. "Quick" is definitely a mis-nomer!!!

Be careful when replacing the gasket that you do not overtighten. Otherwise it will stretch/distort the gasket.

Having made numerous unsuccessful attempts to repair my leak, which I had assumed was from the element/boiler joint, I am now of the view that the leak is actually from the threaded boss which is welded to the boiler. Am in the process of removing the boiler to get this re-welded.

PS: The leak is not at all related to frost damage
 
If you have minor leaks on gaskets why not just buy some gasket material and make your own!

Also try a dab of LSX on all threads and joints. It's a clear sealer that a very old and experienced (no substitute) plumber told me to use many years ago. You can buy it from most plumbing merchants. When dry its like a thin rubber so does not lock threads but believe me, it does seal really well. I have been using it for many years. It even works if the surfaces are wet! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Picked up my new heating element with assistance of Derek at Aladdins Cave(now Force 4). The price was unbelievably £19.20 !!! was gobsmacked, expected £50 min. It appeared to be of identical manufacture but the thread was excessively tight so had to be dressed with files. The gasket is in fact an O ring & it would have been difficult to judge gasket pressure due to thread friction but I think that with this type O ring seal, housings are designed so that when machined faces meet the pressure on the O ring is correct.. Adjusted the thermostat to 50c (it was on 70) and alls well, no leaks !
 
When I purchased a new element it came with both a flat "rubber"gasket and an O-ring. I contacted the Quick technical people in Italy to check this out since the element/calorifier joint had originally a flat gasket (from new). I was told that there are two types of Quick calorifier and that if there was originally a flat gasket then to use the flat gasket, and not the O-ring
 
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