last eberspacher questions.. ..i promise!

[contessaman]

I realise half the threads on here are eberspacher questions -so sorry! but I need your combined experience once more!

I've got my ebay D1LCc running well now so its time to install it. Had a lot of good advice on here before but I need to clarify a few more details:

1) mounting. manual says it has slight tolerance to angles. obviously I will mount it level with exhaust facing down as god intended. But do I mount it longitudianlly or athwartships? I want to use it while under sail (deck saloon, inside helm) so which way would be most tolerant of angle of heel??

2)Dave of this forum mention that I would need a condesation drain in my exhaust which will push the boundaries of the maximum allowed length. How does this drain work? is it a custom stainless box a little like my vetus exhaust waterlock? is it something I will need to manually empty or will it just blow out wen I start the heater. Cant find reference to a drain in manual, so please let me know how to rig this up..


3)thanks y'all.

 

[pvb]

Download the Marine Installation Manual - it gives good guidance on most aspects of installation. It's specific to Airtronic, but the same principles apply to other Eberspachers.

You don't need a condensate drain in the exhaust. When the heater is running, any condensation boils out.

 

[alahol2]

I fitted a D1LC longitudinally in the cockpit locker. I very rarely use it under sail but when I have, it has been fine.
The exhaust has a swan neck but no drain, it gets so hot in use that I can't imagine condensation being a problem.

 

[David2452]

You don't need a condensate drain in the exhaust. When the heater is running, any condensation boils out.

Trouble for most people is that for 95% of the time it aint running, and in fact the exhaust gasses are at a surprisingly low temperature at the end of most long runs anyway, my probe is 14" (dont) and whilst setting the CO2 I also sample the temperature as a matter of interest.

 

[David2452]

Sorry, you also asked for an explanation of how the drain works, it's a simple coil of very small bore tube on a short exhaust tube coupler that you insert in the exhaust tube at the lowest point, fill it with water by immersing it before fitting and there's an end to the procedure, it works a bit like a U bend.

 

[pvb]

Trouble for most people is that for 95% of the time it aint running, and in fact the exhaust gasses are at a surprisingly low temperature at the end of most long runs anyway, my probe is 14" (dont) and whilst setting the CO2 I also sample the temperature as a matter of interest.

But you don't need a condensate drain - there are squillions of boaty Eberspachers happily working without one.

 

[ukmctc]

no drain on my D3L, its been onboard for over 27 years.
needs a new skin fitting now and exhaust, but hey I live aboard so in the winter its on almost 24/7.

I use Butlerbus, for spares and tech advise, along with info from here in the forum. I would recommend Collins in NI for those over here, who have been good.

 

[David2452]

There are loads of Webos, Ebos Mikunis et all that stray from the correct install spec but are working, but in order to give the things the best chance of working to maxim efficiency and to keep doing so what on earth is wrong with doing the job right and thereafter following the service schedule? Why is it that these things are bunged in a locker, ignored for years and then people get annoyed when they pack up? Exhaust distillation contains corrosives can and does eat through the pipe from the inside, Lord knows I’ve changed enough of them. But I suppose you are right, the people who design and make these things probably just add one to some the kits and sell them as spares for a bit of a laugh and to make a few quid extra

 

[pcatterall]

i wouldnt worry too much about mounting direction, I find the smaller air heaters are quite 'tilt tolerant' though larger ones like the D4s and 5s not so.
The drain is a good idea in a boat installation they do appear on ebay from tim eto time and will be available from such as Eberbasto.
Good luck!

 

[David2452]

Not sure about buying stuff from Eberbasto, some well priced stuff yes but check first, most of the duct fittings and some other stuff is well above officical dealer RRP.

 

[Bosun Higgs]

Well if thats the last Eber question, I'll give you the last Eber answer - scrap it and buy a Mikuni. Then you will have few if any questions or problems

 

[David2452]

As a Mukuni dealer as well as a Webo dealer, I can vouch for the inaccuracy of the last post, there aren't as many about so you don't hear of so many issues but the call out ratio is around the same.

 

[robinwr]

Maybe the last Eber question could be a Webasto question - I had planned to run my D5 on paraffin before it decided not to start and warrant a trip to Collins but a friend has a Webasto and wondered if running it on paraffin would have the same effect as on an Eber - ie a decoke.

 

[Porthandbuoy]

David

Just a quick thank you for the tips and advice you doll out so freely and frequently on the forum.

My D2 is up and running now with combustion air being drawn from the engine bay and heating air from the foot of the quarter berth (always a difficult place from which to eliminate condensation). It took just under an hour to bring the cabin temp up from 0 to 20 degrees this morning, before winding down to tick-over and maintaining a comfortable 18-20 degrees.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Congrats Porthandboy, I don't think Ebers are any less reliable than any other blown heater - they certainly get the cabin nice and toasty. Spares are a bit eye-watering though.

 

[David2452]

Maybe the last Eber question could be a Webasto question - I had planned to run my D5 on paraffin before it decided not to start and warrant a trip to Collins but a friend has a Webasto and wondered if running it on paraffin would have the same effect as on an Eber - ie a decoke.

They are both evaperator heaters (larger models aside) so the answer is yes, but it is not a universal paneacea and works a lot better sometimes than others.

 

[robinwr]

Thanks David - worth having a go then.

 

[contessaman]

Well if thats the last Eber question, I'll give you the last Eber answer - scrap it and buy a Mikuni. Then you will have few if any questions or problems

thanks for that

wow, thats a sweeping statement.

I can't imagine a company that has been making blown air diesel heaters since long before I was born can be that wrong. My questions were relating to trying to make my DIY installation as professional as possible, so are you saying that the Mikuni is so magically wonderful that it does not need to be installed properly?! maybe I can just lift a floorboard, toss it in the bilge and it will install itself?

Even if the ebers are not as good (debaitable) there are far more of them about, so if the one I have breaks I can whip it out and swap it for another whilst leaving the wiring, fuel pump etc all in place.

From what I have seen the best, if I could afford it, would be a wallas heater as they are most frugal on the amps. Mikini seemed to be the worst by that yardstick.

anyway, thanks for your helpful advice!

 

[contessaman]

David

Just a quick thank you for the tips and advice you doll out so freely and frequently on the forum.

+1