Large Switch For Engine Starting - Ideas

[Deleted member 36384]

I currently have key operated ignition switch for a Perkins 4236. The boat used to have a push button system which was quite hard to push and this was replaced by the current key switch.

The issue is that even the key type is hard to turn against the spring. Its no problem for me but for the kids and wife its difficult to the point of impossible.

I would like to make it easier and I am looking for some sort of large button or spring return type switch. Something like a battery isolator switch but with a spring return.

I have had a search around Google but cant find anything. Any ideas?

Thanks,

BlowingOldBoots

 

[Trundlebug]

How about...

This : http://www.force4.co.uk/4423/Force-4-Push-Button-Switch.html

(Other suppliers are available)

The switch shouldn't have to do any heavy current switching, that's done by ther starter solenoid. Is this what you were looking for?

Have you looked at any of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=starter+switch

Or have you tried lubricating it with a bit of WD40, it may be seizing up a bit?

Replacing with a new one should fix the problem, I've never come across the issue of a key start switch being so hard to turn

 

[prv]

Have a look at RS. You ought to be able to go to the push-button section and then narrow down by current rating. My Yanmar manual quotes something like 25 or 30 amps for the start button, which seems a lot given it only has to switch a relay, but there you go.

Pete

 

[maxi77]

Heres a selection, they seem to be fashionable in cars these days

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/__p...+engine+start+kit&geo_id=21&ff4=228459_228459

 

[rogerthebodger]

My previous boat had a Perkins 4236 and my current has a BLMC engine of similar size and I used an off the shelf multi position key switch most motor factors supply with out any problem. As said above only light current passes through the switch as the solenoid that caries the heavy current

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_n...+switch&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Thanks folks - RS, eBay and Force 4. Obvious (but not to me)! Plenty of choices.

The Force 4 and some of the push buttons in RS look to be just the ticket but some of the ignition panels on eBay look as if they could offer a complete solution as well.

I have tried to clean up the switch and lubricate via the key slot but to no avail. The original push buttons look as if they powered up the starter directly considering the size of them, so perhaps the ignition switch was selected for the same reason, hence a bit heavy duty. The starter relay is an after market thought and I am guessing that the switch was wired to relay starting at a later date.

Many Thanks,

BlowingOldBoots

 

[sarabande]

hmmmm.. Why not take a piece of wood about 8 inches long, and cut a slot in one end, so that anyone with a weak wrist has a lot of leverage to turn the key ?


Could be a good anti-theft device, if the tealeaf can find, or doesn't recognise the significance of a pice of wood sitting on the panels.

 

[Lakesailor]

Or go to the experts. How much choice do you need?

 

[prv]

Or go to the experts. How much choice do you need?

I can't see a rating on that, so I couldn't use it. The manual for my engine specifies a rating of 25 amps for the key switch, and 20 amps (for up to 30 seconds) for the start button.

This was a common problem on lots of sites when I was looking to build a new engine panel, which is why I had to go to RS etc who provide a reasonable amount of information about their products.

Pete

 

[Deleted member 36384]

24 / 12 Volt Compatibility - Current Rating

My electrical system is 24V. If I selected a 12V 30A switch (for example) would that then have a 24V 15A rating, or is there more to it than that?

 

[Lakesailor]

I can't see a rating on that, so I couldn't use it. The manual for my engine specifies a rating of 25 amps for the key switch, and 20 amps (for up to 30 seconds) for the start button.

This was a common problem on lots of sites when I was looking to build a new engine panel, which is why I had to go to RS etc who provide a reasonable amount of information about their products.

Pete

Took me 2 minutes to find the first one on the page is rated at 80/100 amps continuous.
This switch at 40 amps Or this
Although it's a US site the Longacre products are available from most motor sport retailers

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Thanks Lakesailor, I searched around a bit more last night on Google and came across the same push button switch but a different USA supplier. This is the sort of thing I was looking for.

The boat used to have a second push button switch in the engine space to aid bleeding the engine. I'll be reinstating this functionality.

 

[ccscott49]

Jabsco electric toilet switch, just the job, one doing sterling service as my genny starter button.

 

[ean_p]

If your original key switch incorporates the switching for your cold start(glow plugs or what ever)you'll need to factor this into any replacment as this is normally the highest current the switch carries. Ordinarily a diesel key switch is multi stage and has amongst others;
position 0 all off
position 1 auxillary circuits on
position 2(spring return to position 1) Cold start circuit and auxillary circuits
Position 3(spring return to position 1) Starter solenoid and auxillary circuits

as ssuch youll still need an un sprung switch for the pos 1 (if applicable) and a second momentery switch for the cold start system again if applicable.

The aux circuits can be as little as ignition warning light circuit all the way through your engine monitoring instruments/senders and guages to fuel cut off solenoid (if fitted)etc etc etc

If you do infact need all these then the easiest way is a new key switch with a lighter weighting on it and you can still fit the bleeding button by fitting a pb across the starter circuit in order to crank the engine over.