Laminating a Tiller

CliveG

CliveG

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I need to replace the tiller on my new Evolution 25.

I have had a quote from Tony MacKillican.

I fancy having a go at making my own.

Has anyone done this?
I did see an article some years ago in on of the mags but can't find it now.
Any hints?
 
I had to make a new tiller last season and carved it out of a large lump of mahogany (I think) since I had it lying around.

So not a very useful answer really. Sorry, dived into print without properly reading the title of your post.

That causes quite a lot of trouble on here IMO. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Sailing mags prob aren't the best place for those kind of techniques. Toddle along to the local library and look in the cabinetmaking and joinery books.

I assume you want a curved tiller, in which case you will need some fixed blocks to hold the shape, and a lot of cramps. 4-6mm laminations will probably bend OK, and then get 10 different opinions from 10 different people about the glue to use.

Epoxy is good, resorcinol was popular (both 2-pack), and I have been very impressed with the new PU glues - easy to apply, go off v.quickly, waterproof.

Tiller will be a bit stiffer and stronger if you keep the lams horizontal
 
Steam Bending: Just make very sure that the "Gas Can" doesn't contain Gas (or petrol in UK English) or Boooooooom! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
Thanks Jim
I think I will pass on that one.

I am selling the Steam Loco at the minute (on e-bay) and don't fancy building a replacement.

I would like to use different colour layers of wood to give a stripy look to it.
 
Thanks for the link to woodbending, Jim. I've bandsawn out and carved one for my boat but the curve is shallow and so no short grain.
I'd pick laminating and I too would use one of the polyurethane glues. Try some trial bends to see if you can get the curve without any gaps. Might need a lump of chipboard with the female shape out of 4X2 fixed to it so the laminations can be cramped on it.
An advantage of the PUs is that they don't blunt your tools when cleaning up.
The ash/ mahogany sandwiches show up the slightest flaw.
 
Your doing someone out of a job,just think before you launch into this work,can you imagine if everybody started doing things,theres somebody with a family to support,maybe a dog;a mortgage,and think of the mess all that laminating urgh!
 
Tip: cover the worktop and blocks/jig with polythene, and wipe off glue squeeze immediately - it makes much less work later on.

Oak is more durable than ash, and if quarter-sawn is stronger, prettier and has less % movement across the grain.
 
The article in the mags was years ago and a very good one as well with photos. Unfortunately it is the mag archive that still resides at my house that ex is living in.

The technique used a peg board and thin strips epoxied together.

The shape and length of tiller was set by stout "pins" - actually I seem to recall they were BIG nails - hammered into a serious flat wood plank. The "pins" being at the inner point of a bend.

Strips of white and red wood were suitably cut overlength and then one by one fitted into the "frame". Slow setting eppoxy was used to allow generous work time. Each strip being introduced and bent ..
The tiller was built up untill desired number of strips and depth was attained ... then pressed into the curves with further pins inserted to hold while setting.
Once whole is cured ... at least 24 hrs for slow set epoxy ... it was lifted from the "frame" and then shaped .... the white and red wood alternated giving a nice look to the article. Once shaped and sanded - generous coats of Varnish to bring up the grain and natural beauty of the wood.

I have two tillers on my boat made by this system ... one straight emergency job slightly shorter ... normal one with a "crook" in it to raise the handle ... >

best_pal_onboard.jpg


sept-2005-002.jpg


I also have a neat duck-canvas cover in blue that slips over the tiller while moored ... to save the varnish from UV etc.

I would really like to get that article out again ... along with many others ....
 
Best is to shape with power tool to near enough and then finish off with rounding of wood edges.
If you are careful to glue "inside" from the edges - then there is no reason that you should have to cut epoxy.

If you wish - an old modelling trick is :

A line of epoxy glue down through the centre and then pva out to the edges ... once glue has set and all varnished up etc. - you will be surprised at its strength. Or use that old favourite of years gone by - Cascamite ?
 
Tony wanted approximately £120 for what I described to him which was what I could remember of the tiller and a photograph I had sent him.
 
FWIW, Tony Mackillican made me a new tiller from mahogany and ash, quoted me £350 which i thought was a lot at the time, but as the insurance company were paying i went ahead. Very glad i did it was a thing of beauty and will be a joy forever. IMHO dont bother making one yourself, unless you can live with less than perfect. The saving wont be as much as you think. What you have been quoted sounds reasonable. Mine attracts favourable comments all the time.
No connection with Tony, only as a satisfied customer.... :
 
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