Knackered veneer - paint over it?

Yngmar

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Back to sanding again. This time the cockpit table, which I'd planned to sand down much like the cockpit trim and then varnish. Alas, it turns out it's made of plywood with teak veneer (both sides) on. Under previous ownership it had been badly neglected and is severely weathered like the rest of the trim on the boat (see photo - before and after sanding).

table_leafs.jpg


While the solid teak fiddles and edging is revivable by sanding it down, the veneer is well and truly dead. It's coming off in strips and there's dark plywood peeking out underneath. I've sanded it a bit and after wetting, more bits come off, and there isn't enough left to sand it down anyways.

What now? I've considered re-veneering, but it would be a pain in the behind because I'd have to remove the fiddles to do it properly, else it won't get in the corners. Replacing the teak veneered ply sections and re-using the old fiddles and edging briefly crossed my mind, but that stopped as soon as I looked up the cost for double-sided teak veneered ply, not to mention it's getting all a bit much work when all I wanted to do was sand and varnish and put my dinner on it.

While sanding some more, a thought crossed my mind. What if I just strip off the knackered veneer, smoothen it a bit with some wood filler and then paint the ply areas only, leaving the solid teak edges bare. Then varnish over both (Le Tonkinois claims to be suitable for varnishing over paint), aiming to achieve this sort of look (but more glossy and UV protected by the varnish):
001.jpg


Now, that's another thing I've never done - what sort of paint do I use, and how do I prepare the ply? I assume with a few layers of varnish it will be protected from UV, but what I don't need is the paint falling off underneath. Is it even a good idea? I'm tending towards a less glaring colour than white for the paint.
 
Cover it with laminate like Formica. That is what I did on a cabin table with a lousy face veneer. it will look like the one in your photo. You could, though use one of the flexible veneers from Robbins - if you can persuade them to sell small bits, or a new table from Howells.
 
I can't help with the technical details but I think the effect could be very nice. It depends what your colour scheme is, but I would think that a lightish grey would be the easiest to choose. I think that once you have cleared it and primed it adhesion shouldn't be a problem. Of course, Blue Peter fans would be using "sticky-backed plastic".
 
… Replacing the teak veneered ply sections and re-using the old fiddles and edging briefly crossed my mind, but that stopped as soon as I looked up the cost for double-sided teak veneered ply, not to mention it's getting all a bit much work when all I wanted to do was sand and varnish and put my dinner on it. ...

You could obtain an offcut of Formica on ply (or some other suitably-faced ply or other substrate) and re-use the old fiddles on that – which would overcome the cost issue with double-sided teak veneered ply, though not of course the work issue. (OK, it would not be marine ply, but I would have thought that the adhesive for the fiddles would adequately protect the edges of the ply.)

Edit: I should of course have said explicitly double-faced ply or other substrate, to ensure protection of the underside.
 
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I've gone a different route with this after all. After checking with the manufacturer (Sheraton), whose prices are relatively sane for teak bits, the replacement would be only £180 (without fittings), and would be solid teak instead of veneer (hooray for realizing and correcting mistakes).

Given that, I didn't want to put too much work in, so I peeled and sanded the dead veneer off and slapped on 4 coats of Ronseal Woodstain (supposedly Teak coloured, but I disagree with that). This did a fair job of covering up the mix of ply, teak and remaining teak veneer and made it all a similar colour, while retaining at least some of the wood grain, unlike paint.

It looks ok and wasn't a big job. Suspect it won't last very long, but at least I can enjoy dinner in the cockpit for now (somewhat marred today by four noisy smokers in an upwind boat - yuck).

table_stained.jpg

table_open.jpg
 
Looks like a good job and to be honest I think the best solution. It would be easier to replace entirely rather than the alternatives.

Sometimes good enough is good enough. There's only so much time and money to go round.......

Exactly. The price of teak veneer would've exceeded the price of an entirely new table, so that was out. Additionally, taking off the fiddles wasn't possible without breaking them to bits, as someone had previously epoxied some of them back on. Without that, getting new veneer or formica on wouldn't have gone well anyways.

This got the job done at the price of a tin of woodstain and a few hours total work and doesn't look terrible. If it doesn't last, I'll just buy the new table next time.

Although if my test piece is any indication, the woodstain isn't so bad. I did a small square of plywood offcut first and used it to rest my tea mug on for a week, regularly washing it with the rest of the dishes. It did put up with that just fine, and with the green side of the dish sponge :)
 
I think that you have done a great job and it looks great.

With the discussion about the throw away society and repairing electrical stuff, then why chop down a hardwood tree just to make a table? That would look no better than this one.
 
Like others j think you have done a brilliant job. If anything i might protect with a clear lacquer.

I have a 23 foot Viking (boat - not a big lad lol!), i replaced my table with with a round one on a pedastal fitting. Having the extra room around the side's works very well.

Alan
 
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