Kicking Strap ideas

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kirielad

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Hello there

As I am just about to replace the mainsail I have been looking over all the gubbins on the boom to see if it could be 'improved'.

The boat is a 24' Feeling 720, 7/8's rig, not raced, etc.

My question is; is there a better way to rig the kicker than the usual jamming block at the base of the mast - i.e is it worth bringing back to the cockpit to a jammer? Just seems a bit of pain to clamber on deck to alter the kicker as it is.

Also another option I'm considering is to fit one of those solid boom lifters and get rid of the topping lift - anyone know anything about these, and wether its worth it on a 'modest' sized boat?

Any suggestions or ideas most appreciated.

Thanks
 
Main gripe with a lot of kickers is insufficient purchase. I would suggest at least 10:1 but make sure your fittings are sound. A rod kicker can have advantages but it's 50:50 for that size of boat. Suggest you look at the Harken Catalogue for ideas. Make sure when it's rigged before you use it for real that the assembly doesn't foul anything when the boom is swung 180 degrees, also make sure if your are leading back that the kicker doesn't tension when you put the boom back or put an unfair pull on the first block.
 
If you are looking for a budget solution, have a look at the Barton strut.

Click http://www.bartonmarine.com/index2.htm and select "boomstrut" and there is a video of it in action.

I converted my kicker line to operate from the cockpit instead of having to make the trip to the mast - easily done and I use it much more often
 
Well worth having

a gas strut.

Most of these come with at least an 8:1 purchase, do away with the need for a topping lift (but don't dispose of it 'cos it remains of use for other needs).

Take the end back to the cockpit, even though you'll usually only tighten it after hoisting the main and slacken after you've dropped it.
 
I have a Sadler 26 on which I have led the kicker aft in the last season to avoid the need when singlehanding to go forward. All that was needed was a turning block, and a jammer or clutch on the coachroof and it works very well.

Also, I installed a Barton Boomstrut at the same time(my boat should have required the mid-length model according to the hull size but I have a tiny boom and therefore main and I needed the very shortest model as it turned out-)

The strut is very good as it gives me good mainsail shape, especially in light airs, and has the added advantage when putting in a reef that the boom isn't bouncing up and down or banging the coachroof(or head!).

I left the topping lift in place as the mainsheet doubles as part of my MOB equipment and the Boomstrut could not possibly support the weight of a person hanging off the end of the boom.

Another benefit is that if the mainsail jams then the Boomstrut design permits the boom to be hoisted high without any delay and thus scavenge the main
 
Kicking strap: mine is led back to cockpit (as is almost everything else for that matter) and is definitely more convenient. I would agree with the advice to watch the geometry: unless you run the line back along the centreline (unlikely) it's quite difficult to eliminate all change of length as the boom swings.

Rod kicker: I went the opposite way; the boat came with one, but I also fitted a 10 mm topping lift which also acts as a spare main halyard. Having both gives the advantage that the sail can always be dropped without worrying about the boom then, after the sail is packed away, the boom can be lifted well above head height using the topping lift.
 
If you get into serious spinnacker sailing (racing) you will need to be able to release the kicker as the boat is overpowered on a reach to let the boom rise and release even more pressure fromhe top of the main.
Actually on my boat I don't have kicker partly because there is not enough room between the cabin top and boom to get any sort of power and also because i have a good wide traveller. I have topping lift (fixed length) but tend to be happy to lay the boom on the cabin top when leaving the boat. There is a lot less wear on the traveller car that way. olewill
 
I have the same problem. Here's a cheapskate solution that occurred to me.

Take your existing (4:1?) kicker, reverse it end for end, remove the jaws/cleat from the block, shorten the line and make an eye.

Now buy a light 4:1 cascade from the swindlery (2 double blocks), attach one end to the eye, the other to the foot of the mast. This can be quite light because the total load on the new cascade is only a quarter of the total load. You now have quite a thin line to lead back to the cockpit.

Comments?
 
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