Kanzaki km35A gearbox oil level

laika

laika

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The gearbox on my yanmar 3jhr4 is a kanzaki km35a. The yanmar manual tells me to check the level by "reinserting" the dipstick and checking the oil is between the upper and lower marks. Except for two things. Firstly there *is* only one mark, quite low down on the dipstick. I've looked very carefully but can't find an upper mark. Secondly I found a website which cautioned to check the level with the dipstick resting on top of the thread not screwed in:
http://www.yanmarhelp.com/i_box2.htm

It's over 2 years since I last did this and I really can't remember what I did. No I did't look what it was like before I drained it :-(. My manual says the capacity is .65l but the linked web site says .45l. I think I got a bit less than .5l out and have put a bit less than .5l in. Level is above the only mark on the dipstick.

Any advice appreciated....
 
RichardS said:
Don't know if it's any help but my Yanmar gearbox dipstick has to be rested on top of the threads and not screwed in. However mine has two marks so it's quite easy.
Click to expand...

Thanks: this *is* a yanmar gearbox: not sure of the business structure but I think kanzaki are the division of yanmar which does transmission. I'll try mailing yanmar but suspect I won't get a reply until next week and I'd hate to run the gearbox over/under full...
 
laika said:
Thanks: this *is* a yanmar gearbox: not sure of the business structure but I think kanzaki are the division of yanmar which does transmission. I'll try mailing yanmar but suspect I won't get a reply until next week and I'd hate to run the gearbox over/under full...
Click to expand...

The oil level in gearboxes is not actually that important. My saildrive gearbox has a very short stem only a few cms long and the current dealer recommendation is to keep the level on the bottom mark to maximise the air gap and thereby minimise pressure changes due to heat and extend the life of the prop oil seal. I tend to just stick my finger in the filler hole and if I can feel the oil I'm happy.

In the absence of a second mark you will be perfectly safe if you fill the gearbox to the mark on dipstick as that is bound to be either the minimum or the maximum mark and either is fine.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
T
In the absence of a second mark you will be perfectly safe if you fill the gearbox to the mark on dipstick as that is bound to be either the minimum or the maximum mark and either is fine.
Click to expand...

That sounds reasonable but will require me sucking a bit out. The dipstick is about 12cm long with the mark only about 12mm from the bottom. Current oil fill is to about 30mm from the bottom. I did put in a question to Yanmar yesterday. Will post what they say if I get a reply...
 
My dipstick is the same as yours, only one mark, which I assume is the upper fill mark. I check it with the screwed top resting on the casing, not screwed home. It has done 2300 hours like this, still very sweet, so I may have it right.
 
vyv_cox said:
My dipstick is the same as yours, only one mark, which I assume is the upper fill mark. I check it with the screwed top resting on the casing, not screwed home. It has done 2300 hours like this, still very sweet, so I may have it right.
Click to expand...

Brilliant: thanks. So essentially I have overfilled it and need to take it down to that line?
 
laika said:
Brilliant: thanks. So essentially I have overfilled it and need to take it down to that line?
Click to expand...

Probably worth doing that for peace of mind. However, it's an easy job as the filler hole is usually large enough to stick in any old plastic tubing, even a piece of old hosepipe, and just suck out some oil and blow it into a jar. Check level and repeat until correct.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
However, it's an easy job as the filler hole is usually large enough to stick in any old plastic tubing, even a piece of old hosepipe, and just suck out some oil and blow it into a jar.
Click to expand...

Even easier: haven't put away the pela I sucked the old stuff out with yet :-). Thanks to both of you for the advice and I'll update if Yanmar get back to me.
 
Reply received back from Yanmar. Thanks again to Vyv and Richard for correct advice. The mark on the dipstick is the upper level. The bottom of the dipstick is the lower level.
 
S
Foxy said:
Huge caution. Watch out when screwing the dipstick back in that you do t cross threads. The plastic is v v soft and a new one is 40 quid. Ask me how I know.

PAt
Click to expand...

Don't know what plastic they use but it seems to react with hot oil. Mine, and many others, snapped across at the top of the threads. The fracture faces were soft and sticky. A new one is £25! I managed to drill for a couple of self tappers that hold the two parts together nicely.
 
vyv_cox said:
My dipstick is the same as yours, only one mark, which I assume is the upper fill mark. I check it with the screwed top resting on the casing, not screwed home. It has done 2300 hours like this, still very sweet, so I may have it right.
Click to expand...

That is my understanding too.
 
laika said:
Reply received back from Yanmar. Thanks again to Vyv and Richard for correct advice. The mark on the dipstick is the upper level. The bottom of the dipstick is the lower level.
Click to expand...

What does the upper mark on your dipstick look like? I have been pondering the same problem for my 1GM10, on which the dipstick is a thick-walled tube with a transverse hole through it ... I haven't been able to spot a mark, but perhaps I have missed something. The hole?
 
vyv_cox said:
S

Don't know what plastic they use but it seems to react with hot oil. Mine, and many others, snapped across at the top of the threads. The fracture faces were soft and sticky. A new one is £25! I managed to drill for a couple of self tappers that hold the two parts together nicely.
Click to expand...
Because I have come across this problem on a number of Kansaki gearboxes I now use an alternative plug day to day. Cost £3
http://htluk.co.uk/Products/plastic_oil_fill_plug (I actually bought mine off ebay but can't remember the thread size now. I think it's 20mm.)
The genuine plug with dipstick is only brought out of the engine spares box when checking oil level.
 
vyv_cox said:
A circumferential line scribed about 15 mm from the bottom of the tube. I think mine has a hole as well that I assumed was a vent.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Vyv. I shall have a look when I am next at the boat, though I don't recollect a line like that. I think the dipstick may be part of the oil circulation system, with stuff pumped up the middle and emerging from the holes, but I don't have a drawing with which to check this. I can't see any other reason not to have a traditional flat dipstick.
 
vyv_cox said:
A circumferential line scribed about 15 mm from the bottom of the tube. I think mine has a hole as well that I assumed was a vent.
Click to expand...

Yes: I think I measured mine as 12mm from the bottom but it's as vyv describes and deeply scribed, not a faint mark like on the oil dipstick. IIRC there were some very little holes near the top of the dipstick which I wondered if they were involved but clearly they aren't.
 
RichardS said:
The oil level in gearboxes is not actually that important. My saildrive gearbox has a very short stem only a few cms long and the current dealer recommendation is to keep the level on the bottom mark to maximise the air gap and thereby minimise pressure changes due to heat and extend the life of the prop oil seal. I tend to just stick my finger in the filler hole and if I can feel the oil I'm happy.

In the absence of a second mark you will be perfectly safe if you fill the gearbox to the mark on dipstick as that is bound to be either the minimum or the maximum mark and either is fine.

Richard
Click to expand...

My experience is contrary -- that fill level is absolutely critical. Slight overfilling resulted in my Kanzaki's slipping in gear alarmingly; reducing the level corrected it.
 
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