kano kroil to free an aluminium part

simonfraser

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any one used this on aluminium with seals nearby, as in a hydraulic cylinder ?

the seals are weeping so it will have to come apart, but i don't want to make matters worse until the parts have been freed.

i intend to give the screw in joint a regular spray, apply some heat from a hot air gun and hopefully move it with a tool recently donated by a forum member.
 
I have never heard of Kano Kroil and don't recall it ever being mentioned on the Forum previously.

I'm sure that it's very similar to the oft mentioned Plus Gas and there would be no problem in using it on a hydraulic cylinder.

Richard
 
I have found a home brew formula that is said to work better than any commercial penetrating oil, Its a 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. It might be worth a try because it was claimed to be better than Kano Kroil, which itself beat WD40 by some margin.

Scroll down this page on the Audi TT forum to find it http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=150742
 
Depending on where you need to use it, plain old '3 in 1' can be as good as anything. The trick is to add some heat.
It might be worth looking at the safety data of the Kroil, their blurb suggests some rust-eating capability, so it's probably got some phosphoric acid or similar in it?
Rust is one thing, ali corrosion is another.
 
Kroil is brilliant. It takes time to work, like most penetrating oils, so patience is a key tool. If your aluminum part is frozen to steel, you can use heat - to avoid damaging seals, I should think wrapping the aluminum with some cloth rags and using hot water from a kettle might shift it.

Last resort when aluminum oxide has frozen the aluminum is to use ammonia - beware, as ammonia dissolves aluminum oxide AND aluminum. Ammonia was brilliant removing my bicycle's steel pedals from the aluminum cranks.

Harold
(excuse my American English spelling - I'm from the States - it's funny, really, when I was little I could only pronounce it as aluminium)
 
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