KAD44 - What to look for?

[petem]

I'm aware that Turbos for these motors have a limited life and some of the boats that I'm looking at seem to have had these replaced at around the 10 year mark.

I also believe that valve clearances need to be regularly checked.

Any other issues to watch our for? Anything on the exhaust side likely to be problematic on an outdrive boat?

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Exhaust risers

 

[petem]

Exhaust risers

Suspected that might be the case. I've heard the term but I'm ashamed to say I don't exactly understand what they are and how they can fail. I assume they connect the engine to the exhaust system in the drive. How can you spot issues? do they have to be disconnected to ascertain their condtion?

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Actually I was thinking about horns as much as risers. For a bit of light reading about my own battles with dissolving horns, redesigned riser et al may I refer you to my winter refit thread, start at post #653:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...e-UK-for-a-winter-refit&p=5233457#post5233457

 

[petem]

Thanks JTB, I read all that at the time but still slightly in the dark about how horns and risers work and what they do!

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Thanks JTB, I read all that at the time but still slightly in the dark about how horns and risers work and what they do!

Notwithstanding the point that you should be focussing on other matters right now [/injoke] then the short answer is that the riser connects the exhaust output from the turbo to the horn which in turn is connected to the leg. This is how exhaust gases exit the vessel on an outdrive boat. The riser also has a water injection point where the raw water output from the cooling circuit is injected, so that it can similarly exit the vessel.

 

[rlw]

On the KAD 44 the horn is the green 90° elbow that connect to the grey riser on one side and the turbo on the other. The grey risers is bolted to the transom shield. Never replaced risers but if they are corroded the boat would sink. State of the turbo can be measured to check the boost pressure and based on that decided if worth replacing or not.

If its a fairline with fance green covers check the covers and rubbing through the water inlet pipe. Had to replace one of mine as the cover had cut quite deep into the pipe. Less than half the thickness left. As you stated valve clearences need to be done every 200 hours.

Are you talking about the EDC version?

 

[Portofino]

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ka...&hl=en-gb&client=safari#imgrc=zrMxTfjiP4Q5mM:
Here's an elbow I replaced mine @8 y they corrode through -tell take signs are obvious rust spots ,but before that engine temp increases due to internal rust of the water spray thingy inside it .As it rusts away it blocked the water exit holes = engine overheating .
Anything VP coated in Oil is bomb proof ( inside the engine ) -it's the bits bolted on that let then them down -cast cheapo metal that rots away .
So constant merry go round of elbows , riser , inter cooler , turbo , even water pump seals .
Fine at the boat show and first 3-4 years .
Oh then you have the out drive hanging about immersed in sea ,never mind the sea air ----- working on the "bolt on" bits in the E room .
Pete -if you are thinking of doing a "Whitelighter " in the Med -go down the shafty route

 

[alt]

Interesting reading, given that I have a KAD300. Mind, i've been in fresh water since new... externally the engine room is spotless... I assume the fresh water is helping with avoiding these issues?