KAD 42 Compressor belt - how to get it over tension pulley

BruceK

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I'll have to check the serial on the belts CR sent, but at the moment, the belts once over the main pulley's has about 10mm free play. It was an effort to get them on. There is no way I can get them over the tensioner pulley (55) as shown and yes I have loosened it and dropped it as low as it will go. Is there a trick to this or would it be obvious I have the wrong belt?
 

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I am sure that the pulley is not loosened. Rather you put a spanner/socket over the nut and force it back against the spring. Slip the belt over and let the tensioner back onto the belt.
 
Can only speak for my engines KAD 43's admittedly, but I thought that they were basically the same.
Never had a problem getting the tensioners on.
1st thing would be to check the new belt against the old one.
 
I am sure that the pulley is not loosened. Rather you put a spanner/socket over the nut and force it back against the spring. Slip the belt over and let the tensioner back onto the belt.

These do not have a spring. The "bolt" terminates with a gear head. This runs through a gearing mechanism when you turn the bolt to raise and lower the pully and a locking nut to hold it in the desired position.
 
I'm sure he get's bothered enough without me pm'ing him. Let someone else be the hero, I'm scratching my head, I'm pretty sure they are wrong belts unless there is a trick to it. Too small is too small :confused:
 
No part number on packaging. As said above I'll need to check against a printed serial number on the belt itself tomorrow. On the invoice from CR it just says replacement belts for KAD42. I suspect in true form they sent the water pump or other belts. If I have 10mm free play off the tensioner and need 50 to 60mm slack minimum to get it on the tensioner at furthest extension slack, then I'm either being incredibly stupid, wouldn't be the first time, or its the wrong belt.
 
These do not have a spring. The "bolt" terminates with a gear head. This runs through a gearing mechanism when you turn the bolt to raise and lower the pulley and a locking nut to hold it in the desired position.

If you have given it as much space as it can the belt should be easy to get over the pulley and there should be quite a bit of slack. Check the belt part# if you don't have the old one and compare to the original part#
 
The tensioner of the crackshaft-waterpump belt can be loosend with the bolt to the left of it. Then you can slide the complete tensioner to the left and fit the belt. Then push the tensioner back by hand and tighten the bolt. Use the tensioner to set the correct tension of the belt. Be aware of rust on the crackshaft pulley. It will eat your new belt in a couple of hours..

The tensioner of the waterpump-compressor can be removed completly before fitting the new belt. There are 2 M8 threads inside the mountingplate so normaly with a new belt you have to use the top one. Make sure the thread is ok and use a little grease to make the next time easier.
 
These are the references for KAD43..... They may be the same VolvoPaul will confirm or otherwise.
Kompressor belt
Contitech ContiV multirib 6PK1200
Gates 6PK1203

Circulation belt
Contitech ContiV multirib 7PK920
Gates 7PK920

Alternator belt ‘V’ belt 12.5 x 990 (VP 977542)

Power steer belt ‘V’ belt 11.9 x 1013 (VP 973487)
 
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