Just planning a simple shore power installation

King Penguin

King Penguin

Well-Known Member
Joined
9 May 2012
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205
www.penguinsailing.com
Hi everyone,

I'm just in the process of planning to install a simple shorepower system on my Rasmus.

I'm thinking a double socket near the chart table, a double in the saloon and a single socket each in the forecabin and aft cabin.

I'm not initially building in a battery charger and I am unlikely to connect it up to the water heater.

So my questions are.....what kit do I need and what things in particular should I watch out for.

Thanks in advance for any members help and experience.
 
Google is better at searching the forums than the the forum search facility. Specify the site in the search term, like this:

site:ybw.com shore power installation
 
King Penguin said:
Hi everyone,

I'm just in the process of planning to install a simple shorepower system on my Rasmus.

I'm thinking a double socket near the chart table, a double in the saloon and a single socket each in the forecabin and aft cabin.

I'm not initially building in a battery charger and I am unlikely to connect it up to the water heater.

So my questions are.....what kit do I need and what things in particular should I watch out for.

Thanks in advance for any members help and experience.
Click to expand...

A double sockets a single socket and some cable would be a good start :rolleyes: I have a very simple set up, a double socket below the chart table, a cable going back to the cockpit locker with a IP44 plug on the end. It just hangs in the locker and I connect my extn lead to it when in use. I only use shore power occasionally so this does for me.
 
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King Penguin said:
Hi everyone,

I'm just in the process of planning to install a simple shorepower system on my Rasmus.

what kit do I need and what things in particular should I watch out for.
Click to expand...
A connecting cable .... Arctic grade often preferred for its flexibility .. with plug to suit the shorepower supply and connector for the boat inlet.

An inlet connector,

A suitable consumer unit with appropriate IP rating and an RCD and mcbs for the circuits you are proposing. A garage unit may suffice,

A galvanic isolator if you are likely to want to leave the shorepower connected for prolonged periods.

Suitable sockets and boxes

Flexible cable for the wiring .... Do not use house wiring cable

Access to a copy of ISO 13297-2012 which is the International Standard for AC installations in small craft.
 
Tooo easy I suspect.

NOHOH said:
Whats wrong with using one of these?

https://www.towsure.com/product/Camping_Site_Mains_Supply_Unit_3_Outlet

As long as the mains is not integrated (via power supply) into the boat`s own electrical system...then as far as I can see.....you can have the benefits of mains supply without the dangers of corrosion or electrocution....or have I missed something?
Click to expand...
Nothing, in fact I think it a great solution, unlikely to get much endorsement here due to the lack of hard work involved in its installation. We have shore power with only one socket, near the chart table and have never found the need for wiring in more sockets. Admittedly the charger and immersion are wired in too so we have no problem using the bright but power hungry halogen lamps the boat came with.
 
I have installed one of these. I opened it up, and took an output from the "safe" side of the unit. So I now have the three sockets of the unit itself, but also have wired in two sets of remote double sockets. Hence everything is protected by the double pole rcd thingy. It was simple making hole through plastic casing form my output, and also holes to screw unit to wall.

I also broke the orange mainslead and put in a marine grade socket in the cockpit, and a plug on the cable.
 
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OceanSprint said:
I have installed one of these. I opened it up, and took an output from the "safe" side of the unit. So I now have the three sockets of the unit itself, but also have wired in two sets of remote double sockets. Hence everything is protected by the double pole rcd thingy. It was simple making hole through plastic casing form my output, and also holes to screw unit to wall.

I also broke the orange mainslead and put in a marine grade socket in the cockpit, and a plug on the cable.
Click to expand...
Excellent!
 
johnphilip said:
Nothing, in fact I think it a great solution, unlikely to get much endorsement here due to the lack of hard work involved in its installation. We have shore power with only one socket, near the chart table and have never found the need for wiring in more sockets. Admittedly the charger and immersion are wired in too so we have no problem using the bright but power hungry halogen lamps the boat came with.
Click to expand...

If it was all so brilliant, I wonder why not one single boat builder uses this arrangement, and why there is an international standard to cover permanent installations in boats?
 
NOHOH said:
Whats wrong with using one of these?

https://www.towsure.com/product/Camping_Site_Mains_Supply_Unit_3_Outlet

As long as the mains is not integrated (via power supply) into the boat`s own electrical system...then as far as I can see.....you can have the benefits of mains supply without the dangers of corrosion or electrocution....or have I missed something?
Click to expand...

johnphilip said:
Nothing, in fact I think it a great solution, unlikely to get much endorsement here due to the lack of hard work involved in its installation. We have shore power with only one socket, near the chart table and have never found the need for wiring in more sockets. Admittedly the charger and immersion are wired in too so we have no problem using the bright but power hungry halogen lamps the boat came with.
Click to expand...

Tranona said:
If it was all so brilliant, I wonder why not one single boat builder uses this arrangement, and why there is an international standard to cover permanent installations in boats?
Click to expand...

As a temporary arrangemnt possibly quite a good idea.

For a fixed permanent installation the main objections are probably the lack of bonding to the Dc negative etc, which is required by the aforementioned standard, and the lack of a galvanic isolator.

Both of these objections could be overcome though if making one into a permanent installation.
 
^^ so VicS, what you are saying here is one could use this unit and fit the galvanic isolator and bond to Dc negative etc and all would be fine?.

I have looked at using one of these as a permeant rather than buying all the separate bits etc.

Anyone done that please?

I'm thinking of forgetting mains power and simply adding a separate bank of batteries with solar panels to charge them, thinking 350 watts of panels and a couple of 110ah batts, this will run a low amp fridge and maybe 12v TV etc with a BM1 system to show me whats going down. The lights/pumps etc will stay on the current 12v system thats powered by a couple of 110's that are charged off the engine etc.

I feel the above will be more fun to play with and install , and i wont kill myself to death.
 
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daboss_uk said:
^^ so VicS, what you are saying here is one could use this unit and fit the galvanic isolator and bond to Dc negative etc and all would be fine?.
Click to expand...

I cannot think of any reason why not ... in theory.

IIRC Safeshore offer a plug in galvanic isolator which may overcome any practical snags with that.

All that remains is a satisfactory way of adding the earth wire for the bonding. I am sure it wont be difficult.


Be sure you understand the point LW395 makes about male and female connectors at the boat end of the shore cable re live pins etc .
 
VicS said:
As a temporary arrangemnt possibly quite a good idea.

For a fixed permanent installation the main objections are probably the lack of bonding to the Dc negative etc, which is required by the aforementioned standard, and the lack of a galvanic isolator.

Both of these objections could be overcome though if making one into a permanent installation.
Click to expand...
Pity about that standard that requires you to create a problem by connecting to the DC Negative and then buying an isolator to remove the problem it causes.
 
VicS said:
For a fixed permanent installation the main objections are probably the lack of bonding to the Dc negative etc, which is required by the aforementioned standard, and the lack of a galvanic isolator.
Click to expand...

I need to move my existing shore power consumer unit this winter, and in practice "move" will probably become "replace". I think we've discussed this before in the abstract, but I don't remember the details; now I'm actually working on it, would you mind reminding me what the purpose is of connecting the DC negative to (presumably) the AC earth? And am I right in thinking that the galvanic isolator is not necessary if this isn't done?

The current system, as installed by the (EU) builder, doesn't have any visible connection from the AC system to anything else. I'm not sure whether there's an indirect connection via the calorifier or the battery charger.

Thanks,

Pete
 
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