Just bought one of these

[sailorman]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...n+thermostat&gclid=CIjPuvixm6wCFcgc4QoddjhI_g

thought it a good idea over the cold weather o/b

 

[Seajet]

Apart from a temperature readout on a nice LCD - which may or may not be calibrated accurate - what's the point ? I thought all heaters had thermostat or froststat cut-out settings these days ?

NB 'for indoor ( presumably house ) use only' doesn't sound like any boat I know in winter !

 

[sailorman]

Apart from a temperature readout on a nice LCD - which may or may not be calibrated accurate - what's the point ? I thought all heaters had thermostat or froststat cut-out settings these days ?

not all heaters, fan heaters do
i use an oil filled rad o/b much safer
this is giving an accurate current reading in the house 21.2c house temp reading from another source 22c

 

[elton]

I fitted a panel mounted thermostat and 13A socket to plug a fan heater in to. The advantage of this, over a fan heater with built-in thermostat, is that my thermostat is 3/4 cabin height off the floor, where it gets a more representative reading of cabin temperature.

 

[sailorman]

I fitted a panel mounted thermostat and 13A socket to plug a fan heater in to. The advantage of this, over a fan heater with built-in thermostat, is that my thermostat is 3/4 cabin height off the floor, where it gets a more representative reading of cabin temperature.

i will not be o/b when the stat is in use

 

[Ammonite]

It's good bit of kit. I have one hooked up to an 180w greenhouse tubular heater I use to heat the boat. This doesn't have a thermostat and it seems stupid to have it running all day when it may only be needed at night. Having said that I think this would be more accurate than your typical radiator thermostat which can easily get knocked, is a pain to callibrate etc (I'm talking about the simple rotary dial types here). You can also place the thermostat away from the heater to give you a more realistic measurement of the average temperature in the boat.

 

[Supine Being]

I bought one of those recently too. I'm using it with a tube heater for when I'm not aboard. I've got it set at 5c to stop the boat freezing and (hopefully) to avoid too much condensation. The plug is in the quarter berth with the heater on the cabin sole, so it should work.

That said, when I'm scraping the car in the mornings I still wonder whether it kicked in.

 

[pyrojames]

I'd be very wary about fitting one of those to run an unattended heater. I have had my suspicions about timer units used for switching lights for a while, but something that is potentially switch a heater is far more dependent on good clean positive contacts.

I use a thermostatically controlled convenction radiator on the boat. Limited connection to fail, not reliant on a fan, or on oil. I have seen both fan heaters and oil filled ones catch fire.

 

[pvb]

I'd be very wary about fitting one of those to run an unattended heater. I have had my suspicions about timer units used for switching lights for a while, but something that is potentially switch a heater is far more dependent on good clean positive contacts.

I use a thermostatically controlled convenction radiator on the boat. Limited connection to fail, not reliant on a fan, or on oil. I have seen both fan heaters and oil filled ones catch fire.

That's maybe an ultra-cautious view. Your thermostatically controlled heater is also dependent on good clean positive contacts.

 

[sailorman]

That's maybe an ultra-cautious view. Your thermostatically controlled heater is also dependent on good clean positive contacts.

Guess wot Pyro does for boat tokens

 

[pvb]

Guess wot Pyro does for boat tokens

Do tell, but I doubt that it'll change my view.

 

[Colvic Watson]

Do tell, but I doubt that it'll change my view.

p-y-r-o

 

[pvb]

p-y-r-o

So? Saying that remote thermostats are dodgy, because of contacts, but supporting the use of heaters with integral thermostats is - to say the least - irrational.

 

[pyrojames]

Two things come to mind. Integral thermostats are normally simple bi-metallic strips, with a minimal quantity of plastic around them. You don't set a temperature, (at least on the one I have). If they fail by arcing you might get a fire, if they fail through a resistive heating fault, there is unlikely to be a fire, if they fail to turn off, you pay a bit more for the extra power you used.

A remote thermostat where you set the temperature, is microchip controlled, set in a nice plastic housing, plugged into a plastic fascia, probably an wooden of combustible panel, and is probably using solid state switching. The electrical loads are high, and as a result I wouldn't use one.

I have investigated several fires that I think were most probably caused by timer units switching on lights, and having a similar device to switch a heater just wouldn't be for me. The risk of a fire is always low, but the consequences are devastating, and I see it 2-3 times a week.

 

[TonyS]

Switch Rating

Just a point on the spec. It is only rated for 400W which is a tubular heater. It won't switch a fan heater or most oil filled rads. It is intended to switch a light but why I don't know. Tony

 

[pvb]

Just a point on the spec. It is only rated for 400W which is a tubular heater. It won't switch a fan heater or most oil filled rads. It is intended to switch a light but why I don't know. Tony

The specification says it will switch a 3kW resistive load.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

I shall be keeping my windows open over Christmas.

 

[sailorman]

I shall be keeping my windows open over Christmas.

keep the gun handy then

 

[Rum_Pirate]

keep the gun handy then

Have security grilles.

 

[sailorman]

Have security grilles.

we dont