Joining anchor chain

onenyala said:
The only gypsy on board is me !
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In that case, nothing at all. Despite what you may read here, a galvanised shackle the same nominal size as the chain is considerably weaker than it. Go a size up if you can, i.e. 10 mm shackle in 8 mm chain and use good quality shackles. For greater strength and reliability many stainless steel shackles are far better.
 
joining anchor chain

I would use a bit of climbing/caving kit a Maillon Rapide galv or s/steel epoxy glue the nut or drill and use a roll pin through the nut part of the maillon
 
I know I am going to get shot!

But if you are only pulling it up by hand, why not lay chain side by side and use a couple of bolts, about 3 - 4ins apart. Use 2 nuts on each so you can lock the nuts tight against each other.
But what ever you fit, remember to check the join every time you use it>
I am waiting for the flack!
 
KellysEye said:
Personally I wouldn't do it but if you use shackles don't forget to use seizing wire.
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I use seizing wire on any shackle which goes out of sight ie underwater.
What I cannot understand are all the warnings against using shackles to join, in my case 8mm chain cable when in order to join the cable to the anchor it is necessary to use an 8mm shackle anyway to link the cable to the larger shackle on the shank of the anchor.
Has anyone any technical argument to disprove the logic.
 
I use seizing wire on any shackle in the mooring or anchor chain set-up, whether it's in eyesight or not !

One thing to beware of is that apparently only 'bow' shackles should be used on moorings ( so I suppose the same applies to anchor rodes ) as these are intended for moorings, straight shackles are not; this may affect insurance if anything goes wrong, I read...

Onenyala, not quite sure what you mean about using bolts ?

For chains which have to go over gypsies there are joining links available:

image.php
 
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Seajet said:
I use seizing wire on any shackle in the mooring or anchor chain set-up, whether it's in eyesight or not !

One thing to beware of is that apparently only 'bow' shackles should be used on moorings ( so I suppose the same applies to anchor rodes ) as these are intended for moorings, straight shackles are not; this may affect insurance if anything goes wrong, I read...

Onenyala, not quite sure what you mean about using bolts ?

For chains which have to go over gypsies there are joining links available:

image.php
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Bow shackles ! At last some light on the subject. I can see that bow shackles probably have a certain amount of 'elastic' flexing under load and are probably the way forward.

It was not I who mentioned bolts.

I would have to bring all the chain ashore to pean over the studs on C links (which have a mixed press on this forum). I use Norwegian steam to lift the anchor anyway so gypsys are not an issue.
Thanks for the advice re the bow shackles
 
Normal "D" shackles are perfectly ok where you are are only joining 2 components. Bow shackles are used where 2 or more components are to be joined and is why they are preferred for moorings.
 
A chain ordered from the supplier as an anchor rode should have a large link at the end to allow the use of a larger size shackle onto the anchor. This also helps prevent the joint from folding up on itself and locking into the wrong position. Bow shackles are good for accomodating off-axis loads as they offer greater articulation, such as when the tide turns and the boat swings.

Unfortunately, most chain is sold by chandlers who cut it off a bulk delivery, so no large link is included - except maybe the first one (?) The best you can do is to use the largest shackle whose pin will pass through the chain link. Many anchors are attached with two shackles back-to-back a dee shackle onto the chain and a bow shackle on the anchor, each one the largest size that will fit the chain/anchor.

I prefer to choose a shackle whose thread protrudes when made up fast. I pein the end of the pin over to secure it as well as mousing as that will help hold it if the thread releases as the galvanising is eaten away.

Rob.
 
parsifal said:
Here's one that wasn't!
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Yes, I have a few examples like that. Unfortunately a tensile test doesn't give much guidance regarding the combined effects of corrosion and load. Your example is a typical stress-corrosion cracking fracture, due to a combination of poor materials selection and sometimes cheap manufacturing.

Onenyala: you will always get a 10 mm pin through 8 mm chain links. I tested 10 mm shackles, many of which were weaker than 8 mm chain. See http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Connectors.aspx Sorry about the absence of photos, have not got around to them on that page as yet.
 
Kind of hi-jacking the thread here,for which I appologies, but you guys can probably shed some light on my problem.

We have the Grumpster on a swinging mooring at Dale, and this season we have lost 3...yes THREE..mooring bouys!. The first one we put down to the storms in the spring as a few were lost, but we replaced that and lost that one too. Then we pop down yesterday to find the 3rd ones gone!
My thoughts are a theft as it dries on a big spring, but no-one else seems to have suffered?

A guy yesterday said we may be setting it up wrong, with the swivel shackle in the wrong place?

We have the chain from the anchor point, the riser, going to a big D shackle on which we attached the swivel (which held the bouy). We then have a second D shackle with chain to the pick-up bouy which is then obviously connected to the boats bow.

So in effect, it is riser to 2 D shackles (one to swivel and bouy, one to boat) to chain to boat.

This is, as far as we remember, the set up we aquired when we took the mooring on.

Any ideas guys?

Many thanks....Jeff.
 
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