Johnson 3.5hp 2-stroke

cmedsailor

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I am thinking of buying a used Johnson 3.5hp to replace my "weak" honda 2hp. Anything in particular that I need to know? Shall I expect the Johnson to push my 2.4m tender much faster than the little honda?
 
I am thinking of buying a used Johnson 3.5hp to replace my "weak" honda 2hp. Anything in particular that I need to know? Shall I expect the Johnson to push my 2.4m tender much faster than the little honda?
I have one & am very happy with it, pushes a 2.4 inflatable very well :encouragement: Mine didn't have a kill cord, just a red push stop so I converted it with a kit from ASAP.
 
I am thinking of buying a used Johnson 3.5hp to replace my "weak" honda 2hp. Anything in particular that I need to know? Shall I expect the Johnson to push my 2.4m tender much faster than the little honda?

You dont say how old or give the model number but presumably from the 2001 to 2005 era in which case ITYWF it is a rebadged Tohatsu.

3.5 hp should be adequate for 2.4m rigid tender. ( 1½ hp Seagull seems to push mine OK)

I believe there may have been a choice of two or three different pitch props so the prop fitted (7½" x 6" being the standard one) might make some difference.

Generally most parts seem to be avaialble
 
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You dont say how old or give the model number but presumably from the 2001 to 2005 era in which case ITYWF it is a rebadged Tohatsu.

3.5 hp should be adequate for 2.4m rigid tender. ( 1½ hp Seagull seems to push mine OK)

I believe there may have been a choice of two or three different pitch props so the prop fitted (7½" x 6" being the standard one) might make some difference.

Generally most parts seem to be avaialble

To be honest I don't know how old it is. It's the model with the black-red stipe if that says anything.
My tender is a Hondawave 2.4, the one with the inflatable floor (and little keel).
 
To be honest I don't know how old it is. It's the model with the black-red stipe if that says anything.
My tender is a Hondawave 2.4, the one with the inflatable floor (and little keel).

Not familiar with the livery although probably on line somewhere. It's the model number that will tell all. You should find it on a plate probably on the port side of the transom clamp. If you buy it make a note of the number as you will probably need to quote it if buying any parts.

Had not realised you were talking about an inflatable when you said tender. That one will take up to a 6hp outboard so I guess its not going to fly with only 3.5
 
it will push that very well. I have one and it will get my seago 260 and all of my 14 stones planing at about 12 knots. Great little engine , only problem I've had is a regularly gunged up float chamber in the carb. Prob through lack of use. Symptoms are not running or starting well and fuel running out of the carb when the tap is opened. Easily fixed as the bowl can be removed without taking off the carb. I also fitted a kill switch. Bought it on ebay for a few pounds.
 
Johnson 3.5 2001 - 2007 does use the Tohatsu powerhead. However, the gearbox is a johnson one and is trickier to drop and refit when changing the impeller. Best design advantage over the Tohatsu, however, is the fact that the hood clips on rather than screws on - much better in that respect.
 
OK, I know now that it's a 2005 model (I have bought it!). What 2-stroke oil do I have to use? The normal 2-stroke oil for gasolines you buy in any petrol station or something "marine" type? Thanks
 
OK, I know now that it's a 2005 model (I have bought it!). What 2-stroke oil do I have to use? The normal 2-stroke oil for gasolines you buy in any petrol station or something "marine" type? Thanks

Tcw3 marine 2 stroke - not scooter oil

Your choice. It will run on either.

A 2 stroke outboard engine oil to TCW 3 spec is the best choice.

Its formulated for water cooled engines, which run cooler than air cooled motor cycle or garden machinery engines. The latest outboard engine oils are also biodegradable, so less polluting ... although you dont use much!

Correct mixture is 50:1

Check, preferably change, the gear case oil. Again an outboard engine gearcase oil is the best choice as it contains inhibitors and emulsifiers to protect the gears in the event of water ingress.
In use the oil should remain "clear and bight". Any milkiness is due to water ingress and indicates that new seals are required.

Check that it does not run too hot.

If there is a tell tale water should run from it all the time the engine is running. Whether or not the is a tell tale you should see some water, maybe no more than a mist or a few drops, blown from the exhaust back pressure relief port on the back of the leg.
 
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