Jabsco Raw Water Pump Rebuild

[Capt_Scarlet]

I have a Jabsco raw water cooling pump (on Thornycroft T90) and it shows signs of leakage between the bearings (tell-tale hole).

Advice on availability of spares and tips for DIY repair, or of any firm who offers rebuilds would be most welcome.

A new one appears to be about £200. Bugger.

 

[smb]

Can't comment on the Jabsco but cured an identical problem on a VP/Johnson pump last summer.

Took about 3 hours sat at the saloon table with nothing more technical than a hammer, screwdrivers and a couple of handy sized sockets to drve the bearings in with. Replaced two 'c' section lip seals found in a motor factors in Kalamata. Total cost approx 1 euro. Result:- one drip free pump, an immense sense of satisfaction and dirty fingernails.

At £200 a pop for a new one what have you got to lose?

I have an exploded drawing of my pump if it helps, Pm me your email address and I'll send it on.

Steve

 

[Piddy]

Hi Capt_Scarlet

I refurbed a water pump on a T80 last winter which was quite straight forward - 2 new seals (about £2.00 for 5 from RS although they are a standard size so should be available from any bearing supplier) was all it cost.

In my case the shaft wasn't worn so I pushed it out using a vertical drill as a press and refitted with the new seals. All the bearings ran smooth so I didn't bother changing them.
The worst bit was getting it off and on as it is so awkward to get to.
Now it's oil and water leak free.

Cheers

Andy

 

[smb]

Thinking about it, and having just had a look at the drawing, I don't believe I took the bearings out, just gently nudged the shaft out with the hammer. I used the sockets to seat the new seals properly.

The seals themselves had a number printed on them which I first thought was a part No but turned out to be the dimensions. ie 22165 = od 22mm, id 16mm and 5mm thick.

Good luck.

 

[rogerthebodger]

When replacing the lip seals on a water pump. get the seals with the copper spring not the normal steel ones which will rust and cause water to leek in.

If you dont specify the spring type you will be given the "oil" seals.

Most seal suppliers dont know about the copper spring type.

When I did my jabsco raw water pump I took the old springs which were undanaged and fitted to new seal to replace the steel.

Use a magnet to check spring material.

 

[tom52]

When I did my Jabsco ( sorry dont know the number) you cannot tap out the shaft with a hammer. There are circlips.
You need a puller to remove the drive cog ( or improvise ! )
Have a look at http://jabscoshop.co.uk

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
When replacing the lip seals on a water pump. get the seals with the copper spring not the normal steel ones which will rust and cause water to leek in.

[/ QUOTE ]Personally I prefer to use seals with stainless steel springs. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[tangomoon]

Mr Skewes of
Cellar Marine, Porthallow. Cornwall - 01326280214

did my Yanmar pump -new impeller, bearings, seals etc. £90 I think had it back in four days.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Yes that will do as well.

The point I wanted to make is that the normal "oil" seal has a spring that will rust away so to use something better

 

[RobBrown]

For info: Detailed piece by Dick Holness on replacing water pump in this month's Sailing Today, with helpful pics and & some comments on possible recon instead or replacement.

 

[Gordonmc]

I refurbed my T90's Jabsco pump with a kit from ASAP supplies with very little grief. If your pump has twin grease caps is likely the half-inch BSP 4900-200 as well. The number should be stamped on the pump body.
With the impeller cover off and the impeller withdrawn, taking out the woodruff key will let you pull the shaft out after slackening the locking nut and compression nut at the pulley end.
Check the shaft for wear. Unless the brass bushes are completely knacked (one is in the impeller cover) it is probably worth putting everything back together. The kit contains a graphite impregnated bush which is compressed with the hex nut. There are no seals.
Leaks might come from the greasers... I replaced mine.
Short of re-bushing and replacing the shaft (if worn) there is n ut much else to be done. My pump now runs dry with an occasional tweek of the compression nut and the grease caps well filled.