Jabsco Heads Problem

[Summer Solstice]

I have a Jabsco toilet that is just over 18 months old. We were lifted back in last week and since then I have not been able to make the toilet flush correctly. There seems to be a lack of suction to bring the incoming sea water up the pipe as far as the flush handle and into the bowl.

Anyone have have any ideas?

 

[HeadMistress]

If the toilet was left in the dry mode over the winter, that's caused the flapper valve in the pump to become distorted. Replace it, and that should solve your problem.

This is also the time to lubricate the pump. While you have the top off, put a healthy squirt of thick teflon grease--the same thing that was in it when it left the factory--into it...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the pump cylinder wall. That should be all that's needed to keep it pumping smoothly for the whole season without the need for any additional lubrication.

 

[pete]

Hi Same problem on a friends Jabsco Par last weekend,The problem was the big gasket with the flap valves drying out and not sealing after wintering ashore we removed the 6 top screws (into plastic don`t strip the threads) and the hose clip to the bowl, removed top carefully cleaned inspected and wet the flap valves to help them seal and reassembled after a few pumps all was back to normal. Watch the hook/lever goes through gasket when refitting.
I replaced my old Jab/Par toilet with a Lavac a couple of years ago as I was always having to replace cheap plastic bits for it at expensive prices .

Good luck
Pete

 

[steve_cronin]

I'd take the hoses off and knock out any calcification too. Amazing how quickly it can narrow both inlet and outlet hoses and 18 months is about the right time.

These loos require most maintenance than most people realise to remain trouble free.

Steve Cronin

 

[Summer Solstice]

Thank you all for your advice

 

[HeadMistress]

There's an easier way to dissolve mineral buildup: a 12% solution of muriatic (aka sulphuric?) acid flushed through the hoses.

To prevent it, a cupful of white vinegar through the lines once a week.

 

[steve_cronin]

Not when it's as severe as ours gets and "someone" wants the loo NOW!

Steve Cronin /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[tross]

A little tip when replacing the screws, turn them anti-clockwise until they click - or drop down a fraction and then screw them in. This way you will not "re-cut" the thread in the plastic each time

 

[roger]

Muriatic acid

Muriatic acid is Hydrochloric Acid not Sulphuric.

 

[vyv_cox]

Muriatic acid is Hydrochloric. A 12% solution of sulphuric acid would be a powerful oxidiser that may have an unwanted effect on seals and hoses in the installation.

 

[nedmin]

if you do strip the threads all is not lost,get a small nut and bolt .drill thro. the lid and body with the same size hole as in the top part, file the hexagonal bits off the nut off one side so they fit into the recessed bit( where the self tapper went in) then tighten. I used 2BA but had to open the top hole very slightly for clearance.

 

[philip_stevens]

8% Hydrochloric Acid is sold as patio cleaner by B&Q and other diy outlets.

It is 2% less than the Australian gel grp cleaner sold by KH Industries - can you confirm Olewill?? ...and it works wonders!!

 

[nedmin]

if any of you guys out there have got stainless holding tanks I wouldnt want to be putting acid down the heads.

 

[HeadMistress]

[ QUOTE ]
Not when it's as severe as ours gets and "someone" wants the loo NOW!

[/ QUOTE ]

Going through all it takes to pull the hoses off, take 'em onto the dock to knock the minerals out, and put 'em back is faster than just running some muriatic acid through 'em???? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Neither would be necessary if you flush a cupful of white vinegar through the hoses once a week.

Thanks for the correction, Roger...I can never remember what the rest of the world calls it.

A 12% solution is quite safe to put down a loo and into any tank, including stainless or aluminum...no more damaging than vinegar, which is also acid (acidic).) In fact, it's what's called for to remove mineral buildup from the electrode pack in the Raritan Lectra/San, and has been the recommended solution for cleaning engine intake and exhaust hoses for decades. Urine is far worse...it'll turn any metal tank into a collander within about 10 years.

 

[ShipsWoofy]

Do not get the screwdrivers out so fast.....

As a boat that has the ability to dry we sometimes get the same problem with the jabsco bog. It sounds like someone has pumped it a stroke or two (ooer) while she was dry (argh, I'm killin myself with these!).

The only solution, is to pump like a man possessed, pump that sucker, eventually it will take and you will have a flushing bog again. No half hearted efforts, really go for it. Seriously, these bogs need priming and this seems to work and have a chat with the boat yard pumper!

 

[JKay]

we just pull the pipe off the back of the pump head,thumb over the end,work the pump slowly and release the air

there you go Roberts your uncle /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

cheers Joe

 

[Skyva_2]

Try pumping 3 or 4 bowls full of fresh water to get the thing going. Scale build up is unlikely to be a problem after only 18 months unless you are only giving the pump a very few strokes to empty it.

Having said that, some newer pumps than yours have a faulty top gasket (confirmed by Cleghorn Waring and Jabsco, see my post of a few days ago.

HERE

 

[cookjwm]

12 months ago Jabsco told me that the spring they employed to keep flapper valve down was not needed. I've had same problem on mine as yours-and the spare pump assembly I keep because they are so bad, and its clear that the rubber has dried (Why- wrong grade) and it seem that the spring may be needed to push it down again when the rubber dries....what with faulty pump cylinder mouldings -two in succession I wonder what they try to fob us off with.