Is this Propeller Servicable?

[Tim Good]

As you can see I spotted some stress fractures on the prop the other day... is this type of this fixable or am I best just getting a new one? It's a Beneteau First 26 and on a Yanmar 1GM10. you can also see some fairly big chunks out of each blade on the 2nd photo.

 

[robmcg]

Looks like it has had a chew on something. I would probably replace but would look for a better one secondhand first.

 

[jwilson]

Well I wouldn't like to use it ....

 

[johnlilley]

Looks more like dezincification (corrosion) on the tips. Can you break bits off or does the tip of the blade bend if using pliers (little bits only for testing). Corroded tip bits on blades simply break off like dry corn flakes & leave a dull coppery colour edge.Sound bronze will bend.
If dezincified then replace. If not then it can be possible to bronze weld the fracture, but the fracture area also looks suspect with regard to corrosion as well. Does the blade "ring" when tapped with hammer. Corroded blades just have a dull dead noise with hardly any ring.
Ultimately best advice would be to replace as there is too much that needs repair.

John Lilley

 

[sailorman]

As you can see I spotted some stress fractures on the prop the other day... is this type of this fixable or am I best just getting a new one? It's a Beneteau First 26 and on a Yanmar 1GM10. you can also see some fairly big chunks out of each blade on the 2nd photo.

NO
would suggest you also move the anode much closer to the P bracket, that anode is not doing much at all by the appearance of it

 

[david_bagshaw]

Just think what damage that cracked blade might do to the hull if it flew off while going hard astern.

Then ask which is cheaper, repairing the hull damage, and the object you might hit , along with the damage to the p bracket while the one blade prop whirls around.

The chunks out could be repaired, but the crack is at the root, It would be difficult to repair to the base of the crack shown.


Replace, Replace Replace

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

It had it, time for a replacement. However, plenty second hand props around and cheaper than repairing your old one.

 

[Tim Good]

that anode is not doing much at all by the appearance of it

I'd replaced it no longer that about 2 minutes before the photo was taken . Point taken about moving it closer though.

 

[Tim Good]

It had it, time for a replacement. However, plenty second hand props around and cheaper than repairing your old one.

I'm not very experience in prop design nor the correct size or type for a given boat / engine. Any guidance on what I'm looking for? 2 blade or 3? Specific feather angle? Best place for 2nd hand ones?

 

[sailorman]

I'd replaced it no longer that about 2 minutes before the photo was taken . Point taken about moving it closer though.

the McDuff ones with the steel insert are much better with more zinc & they dont come loose either

 

[sailorman]

I'm not very experience in prop design nor the correct size or type for a given boat / engine. Any guidance on what I'm looking for? 2 blade or 3? Specific feather angle? Best place for 2nd hand ones?

the prop dims should be on the aft face of the prop boss or on the boss between the blades

eg - 15 x 10

15 dia
10 pitch

 

[Tranona]

I'm not very experience in prop design nor the correct size or type for a given boat / engine. Any guidance on what I'm looking for? 2 blade or 3? Specific feather angle? Best place for 2nd hand ones?

As sailorman says, the size will be marked on the boss of the prop. If it is not then give your boat/engine/gearbox details to the supplier and they will work out the correct size for you. A simple 2 blade prop just like the one you have will be fine. Extra drag of 3 blade not worth it. You can get props mail order from Sillette Sonic or T Norris.

Bit concerned about the level of dezincification as the anode on the prop does not seem to have eroded. What was the old shaft anode like?

 

[Bilgediver]

As you can see I spotted some stress fractures on the prop the other day... is this type of this fixable or am I best just getting a new one? It's a Beneteau First 26 and on a Yanmar 1GM10. you can also see some fairly big chunks out of each blade on the 2nd photo.

The most serious matter is what looks quite a long crack across the base of one blade. One bladed props run slightly unbalanced


Definitely one for a scrappy!

 

[Colvic Watson]

With that type of performance small cruiser I'd get a feathering Kiwi prop - and no problems with the blade corroding. About £800.

 

[robmcg]

I'm not very experience in prop design nor the correct size or type for a given boat / engine. Any guidance on what I'm looking for? 2 blade or 3? Specific feather angle? Best place for 2nd hand ones?

You could try Woods of Crediton, they seem to have piles of props there. You will need to know the size, pitch and taper though.

 

[Tranona]

With that type of performance small cruiser I'd get a feathering Kiwi prop - and no problems with the blade corroding. About £800.

However, requires a minimum of 20hp to make it work, and the OP only has 9hp from his engine. Nothing wrong with that 2 blade fixed prop for under £300! If he wants drag reduction under sail then a basic 2 blade folder would be the logical choice.

 

[Colvic Watson]

However, requires a minimum of 20hp to make it work, and the OP only has 9hp from his engine. Nothing wrong with that 2 blade fixed prop for under £300! If he wants drag reduction under sail then a basic 2 blade folder would be the logical choice.

Ooops sorry you're right.

 

[Norman_E]

................Bit concerned about the level of dezincification as the anode on the prop does not seem to have eroded. What was the old shaft anode like?

There is no anode on the prop. There should be one that fits onto the nut, which is what you can see, held in place with an Allen screw into the threaded hole in the end of the nut. This sort, sometimes called a Beneteau type. http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/anodes/plastimo/conical-shaft-nut-anodes-1280-128317.bhtml

 

[Tim Good]

There is no anode on the prop. There should be one that fits onto the nut, which is what you can see, held in place with an Allen screw into the threaded hole in the end of the nut. This sort, sometimes called a Beneteau type. http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/anodes/plastimo/conical-shaft-nut-anodes-1280-128317.bhtml

Urrr really? Another that goes on the end other than the shaft anode?

Could be why i have so much play in the P Bracket which could be loose because of dezincification. Different issue that needs sorting.

 

[saltylegs]

I'd replaced it no longer that about 2 minutes before the photo was taken . Point taken about moving it closer though.

Don't move it too close to the P bracket as it will restrict the flow of water through the cutlass bearing. IMHO