Is there such a thing as electric conducting lubrication?

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Otter

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We had an electro eliminator fitted this year to connect the hull anode to the shaft, a sort of spring loaded clamp. Trouble is it squeals like a stuck pig as we're sailing - I want to lubricate it but I don't want to loose the electrical connection- any suggestions?
 
Colvic Watson said:
We had an electro eliminator fitted this year to connect the hull anode to the shaft, a sort of spring loaded clamp. Trouble is it squeals like a stuck pig as we're sailing - I want to lubricate it but I don't want to loose the electrical connection- any suggestions?
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This has been gone over before a few months ago, Vaseline will do the trick as well, a lot cheaper! Sorry Tim!
Stu
 
A normal insulating grease or oil will probably be fine.
The oil will prevent oxidation, the connection will still be metal to metal.
There are genuinely conductive grease, try MG Chemicals.
Carbon or silver loaded.
Expensive and messy, but they have their uses.
 
Is COntralube therefore to be used solely as a protective agent, Richard ? I thought it improved connectivity as well.
 
sarabande said:
Is COntralube therefore to be used solely as a protective agent, Richard ? I thought it improved connectivity as well.
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If the connectors are in a good condition, Contralube will prevent oxidation and water/damp. Very useful to put on any new connectors. Although straying from the topic, a classic example of its use was for an open deck light fitting which constantly corroded - after a really good clean and a good dollop of contralube, the bulb/holder connection has stayed Ok for a while now. I think the marketing guys say it improves connectivity as it can prevent corrosion!
 
RichardS said:
Errrrr ..... Contralube is dielectric so the one thing it specialises in is not being the stuff that the OP requests in his thread title. :confused:

Richard
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No need to be confused. Read up about contralube (I mean read ALL of the info from the manufacturer's spec sheet, not just the bits that would support your argument) . You get what you pay for. It does an excellent job; adheres (unlike vaseline that dribbles out with a tiny amount of heat) , stops oxidisation, allows current to pass through it (inspite of the misleading "dielectirc" word.

There is a reason Nigel M used to be so passionate about it. Excellent stuff.
 
sarabande said:
Is COntralube therefore to be used solely as a protective agent, Richard ? I thought it improved connectivity as well.
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As Dipper says, it is effective at preventing moisture and corrosion so does provide long term connectivity but not because it's conductive as it's actually a good insulator. It can be used on battery terminals, as can vaseline, but that's because as the terminal is tightened up the grease is squeezed out from where the metals are in contact so current can flow.

In a situation where there is not a positive tight contact it's a lot more hit and miss as to whether an insulating lubricant will prevent good contact or allow it.

There are electrically conductive greases (not to be confused with thermally conductive greases which are common) but these are used in specialist applications and I have no experience of them. They are usually carbon based I believe and expensive. The obvious problem with these greases is that if they migrate from the original application site they can cause shorting and countless problems, especially in a moving or spinning application where the grease could be accidentally flung in all directions with potentially disasterous results. :(

Richard
 
DipperToo said:
If the connectors are in a good condition, Contralube will prevent oxidation and water/damp. Very useful to put on any new connectors. Although straying from the topic, a classic example of its use was for an open deck light fitting which constantly corroded - after a really good clean and a good dollop of contralube, the bulb/holder connection has stayed Ok for a while now. I think the marketing guys say it improves connectivity as it can prevent corrosion!
Click to expand...

Indeed, your connection should be good for life.

People used to call in "conductive grease" in error, but I have 'temporarily' installed an LED on a mast with a blob of contralube covering positve and neg terminals and 3 years later the LED still works and no corrosion on terminals.

2 cob LEDs installed on my fog lights - to act as heat sinks) (low down, spray, dirt, road salt) again covered with a blob of contralube also lasted and were going strong after 4 years when I sold the car. Vaseline would have dribbled off. An insulator such as silicone would have been ok, BUT only after connections have been made.

Contralube can be applied to spade terminals and once connected, those terminals will never corrode even if left on an open deck. They can be pulled apart and put back together, whereas silicon sealer of hot glue would not allow that (indeed those two substances may trap water inside the terminals)
 
Sailingsaves said:
No need to be confused. Read up about contralube (I mean read ALL of the info from the manufacturer's spec sheet, not just the bits that would support your argument) . You get what you pay for. It does an excellent job; adheres (unlike vaseline that dribbles out with a tiny amount of heat) , stops oxidisation, allows current to pass through it (inspite of the misleading "dielectirc" word.

There is a reason Nigel M used to be so passionate about it. Excellent stuff.
Click to expand...

Contralube is an excellent insulator and will not conduct any DC voltages of the sort we are talking about. It can behave differently with high frequency AC but that is way beyond any application familar to yachtsmen. :)

Richard
 
So funny.

Dielectric grease--and in fact, any good water-proof grease--is suitable for contacts because the contact pressure forces the grease out. The function of the rease is to exclude water, air, and stray current. They do NOT conduct electricity. Specifically, if Contralube conducted grease, it would be the worst thing for spark plugs.

There are mildly conductive greases that can bleed off static. When improperly used around high voltage systems (many anti-seize products are mildly conductive), they often cause faults.

And while we are at it, marine anti-seize is NOT metals loaded or conductive, because products containing metals (copper is common) have been shown to increase galvanic corrosion. So no copper-based anti-seize.

Oh, and graphite on stainless is asking for galvanic corrosion. Not in a marine environment.

So only non-conductive grease on a boat. Dielectric for electronics, waterproof for everything else. My favorite, after doing a bunch of testing for a magazine, is Green Grease by Omni Lubes. Superior wash-off resistance and corrosion protection.
 
thinwater said:
So funny.

Dielectric grease--and in fact, any good water-proof grease--is suitable for contacts because the contact pressure forces the grease out. The function of the rease is to exclude water, air, and stray current. They do NOT conduct electricity. Specifically, if Contralube conducted grease, it would be the worst thing for spark plugs.

There are mildly conductive greases that can bleed off static. When improperly used around high voltage systems (many anti-seize products are mildly conductive), they often cause faults.

And while we are at it, marine anti-seize is NOT metals loaded or conductive, because products containing metals (copper is common) have been shown to increase galvanic corrosion. So no copper-based anti-seize.

Oh, and graphite on stainless is asking for galvanic corrosion. Not in a marine environment.

So only non-conductive grease on a boat. Dielectric for electronics, waterproof for everything else. My favorite, after doing a bunch of testing for a magazine, is Green Grease by Omni Lubes. Superior wash-off resistance and corrosion protection.
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Hi, why is graphite bad for stainless please? I have used molybdenum grease (containing graphite) on my rigging and bottle screws. I know the air will be salt rich but doesn't galvanic corrosion need total immersion in salt water? cheers
 
RichardS said:
What? :confused:

Richard
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In answer to "what?"

Here is a misinformed chap thinking contralube conducts:

https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...threads/contralube-770-for-mod-threads.18247/

other opinions:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?454890-Contralube-Alternative

http://forums.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?453425-Vaseline-contralube

Useful info:

https://www.talkstuff.net/index.php...be770-this-magical-secret-snot-keeps-yo-r1716

https://www.talkstuff.net/index.php...echnology/contralube-770-a-wonder-stuff-r1967

https://www.facebook.com/contralube/

https://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p...ntralube+770+Electrical+Contact+Protector+Gel

https://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/mm5/graphics/contralube/downloads/contralube_facts_and_myths.pdf

http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=38647

https://sailesmarketing.com/shop/accessories/contralube-770/
 
My tuppen'oth:

You actually don't want a lubricant (and it's better not give anything conductive a chance of getting where it shouldn't to my mind as well). Lubricants actually provide a thin barrier (maybe only molecules thick) between the two bearing surfaces and bearing surfaces should never be used to carry current - that's why shafts and engine blocks are often bonded for example. Any contacting surfaces that have a relative motion should be abrasive.and the wear managed by maintenance (e.g. carbon brushes, etc) - that's my attempt at a direct quote from my RAF training circa 1976.

As others have said though, anything that prevents corrosion will help dramatically as long as the two contacting surfaces don't allow it between them - so avoid anything penetrating, such as WD-40. Vaseline is out as well. Possibly OK for battery connections provided you know they will stay cool, otherwise "keep it in the medical cabinet or the bedside cabinet, depending on your inclination" (another 1976 quote). Contralube is fine, it's not conductive nor is it a actually a lubricant - assuming there's meant to be movement between the clamp and the shaft I can't say how effective it will be but I doubt it will do any harm as it's designed to not sit between the contacting surfaces, only around them where there's clear air.

Only other alternative I can think of would be a corrosion-preventative product, one that you know won't get into the actual bearing surface. FWIW Graphite and copper grease aren't particularly conductive and contain said substances for their lubrication properties, not for any electrical reasons at all. You can actually get conductive grease and it's in very common use in industry but it's bloody expensive and meant for things like high current/voltage switches, where a little bit of oxidation will cause a huge problem, it's not fit for use on things in constant motion as far as I know.

In the design phase your problem would be solved be redesigning the bearing, possibly changing the materials or shape of the contacting areas. No idea if that's an option for you now though.
 
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