Is there such a thing as a bolt holder or socket?

[srah1953]

Hi
I have a deck where the running rigging coming back from the mast is hidden under a moulding which I'd say is sikaflexed to the deck. This doesn't allow any access to the turning blocks. I'd like to find a means whereby the moulding is bolted or otherwise screwed to the deck so that it could be lifted for inspection. I was wondering if there was anything like a bolt holder or socket which could be built into the deck and so could be permanently sealed and not need re-sealing every time the moulding is lifted. Is there such a thing? I regularly come across implements mentioned on the forum which I'd never heard of, so there might be something.
Anyway, many thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Avocet]

It's possible, but not without a lot of work if the boat wasn't built that way to start with. You could have a stainless (or bronze or brass) insert with a female thread, laminated into the deck. It could have a blind hole and would therefore be waterproof.

 

[Lakesailor]

Or bond a stud into the deck and use nuts on the top to secure the moulding.

 

[srah1953]

It's possible, but not without a lot of work if the boat wasn't built that way to start with. You could have a stainless (or bronze or brass) insert with a female thread, laminated into the deck. It could have a blind hole and would therefore be waterproof.

Thanks for the replies. In relation to the above suggestion, would this be something you could buy or would it need to be made up specially?

 

[heart of oak]

I would use a closed end stainless rivnut for something like this.....as long as the load requirements are not too large....
http://www.rivetnut.co.uk/316stainless.htm

Steve

 

[rob2]

I believe there are flanged studs which can be glued to a flat surface, known as Big Heads. That would give you a vertical stud with no leak path. It might be neccessary to adjust the length to suit dome headed nuts to suit. Otherwise, thread inserts could be fitted into the coachroof to accept screws - use a flat head screw design with rubber washers under the head to seal them. To allow occasional access, the mastic between the cover and the coachroof should be butyl, non-setting so that the cover will reseal without replacing the mastic.

http://www.bighead.co.uk/index.html

Rob.

 

[Avocet]

Bighead would be a good place to start. The things I was referring to were made up specially. usually out of hexagonal brass bar, drilled and tapped and with some grooves machined into the outside hexagon to hold it into the fibreglass.

 

[lpdsn]

Thanks for the replies. In relation to the above suggestion, would this be something you could buy or would it need to be made up specially?

I bought some threaded inserts on Amazon a few months ago for a bit of woodwork I was planning. You might have to do a bit of fibreglass work to set them in & ensure there's no leakage through the deck. I guess brass might corrode over time though.

And I'm surprised you have no access to the blocks. My boat has the lines from the mast running below the deck, but there are screw down panels that can be lifted for access to the various blocks. In my case, there are plastic (a very hard plastic) blocks mounted for the panels to be screwed onto.

 

[sailorman]

Thanks for the replies. In relation to the above suggestion, would this be something you could buy or would it need to be made up specially?

how about a photo or class of boat

 

[Stork_III]

Epoxy some of these in the substrate. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5-...ixing_MJ&var=570024622114&hash=item3f0bc80892

 

[srah1953]

Photo attached. The boat is a Sun Odyssey 409. Closer examination shows that the traveller and the sprayhood will need to be removed, in addition to whatever is used to stick the moulding down, to lift up the moulding. In a recent article there was reference to checking sheaves etc to make sure they are not sticking. I was reminded of this when I found the spinlock sheave adjacent to the jib furler was malfunctioning.

 

[William_H]

I am not too sure if there will be enough flange on the cover to bolt down or if bolts need to go through from the top through the rope gap then into the deck top.
In any case I would just drill into the deck top. If it has a soft core then drill a larger hole, scrape out some of the core and fill the hole with resin. Then drill again a hole suitable for a tap to take machine screws to hold the cover down. good luck olewill

 

[cimo]

would an inspection hatch or a hinged flap be more practical perhaps?

 

[srah1953]

would an inspection hatch or a hinged flap be more practical perhaps?

Thinking outside the box. Yes indeed, if I could be sure it could be done neatly.

 

[rogerthebodger]

How about heavy duty Velcro ?

 

[cimo]

Thinking outside the box. Yes indeed, if I could be sure it could be done neatly.

asap do various sizes & styles at reasonable money e.g.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/inspection+hatch/white-plastic-inspection-hatch-814308

 

[srah1953]

asap do various sizes & styles at reasonable money e.g.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/inspection+hatch/white-plastic-inspection-hatch-814308

Excellent. Thank you.