Is replacing windows this easy .......

[CPD]

This is what mine look like ........



So a one-piece polycarbonate / Perspex / glass (slight curve so not a good idea) cut and drilled using the removed one as a template.



When removing the current one(s), get a handful of new interscrews (as the old ones will probably break on removal) ........



Then it looks like it would be sikaflex (291 ??) then new window then more sikaflex then frame then interscrews then tighten all up ?.

I have seen references to sealing tape - would anyone have a link to this stuff, and is it to be used on the boat/window AND window/frame interfaces ?.

It seems a pretty straightforward job, unless I have missed something.

Then again don't they all.....

Thanks for the advice.

 

[William_H]

Yes replacing windows is quite easy. I replaced the windows on my little sailer about 12 years ago. The original had gone crazed in the sun and finally one got a hole poked in it. Now earlier this week I find that one window has again got a hole poked in it. (unless it has simply collapsed from sun and crazing it seems quite brittle) I have made a patch over the perspex and hope it will survive like that till winter refit next month or may be longer. last time I just took the old windows to a plastics shop and they cut out replacements in this case in a smokey colour. I now wonder if that resulted in more UV damage.
In my case perspex is large than the hole with screws through the perspex and f/g no metal trim. good luck olewill

 

[michael_w]

Look at the Sikaflex manual for the right stuff to use. It's their cleaners and primers that cost a fortune, but don't think of not using them; you only want to do this job once!

http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads/sikaflexmarinehandbook.pdf

 

[MoodySabre]

I did mine last year Alan. The screws were just self tappers that go into inner frames. It was straightforward but I took the frames to Houdini and had them reglazed with tinted toughened glass. No more scratches or crazing. A bit cheaper than Perspex. So I don't know about the DIY bit. Refixed with Arboseal butyl mastic.

I covered the windows with polythene and gaffer tape for a couple of weeks. The worst bit of the whole job was getting the gaffer tape residue of the grp afterwards.

 

[vyv_cox]

I would go with a butyl mastic rather than Sikaflex 295UV. My motorsailer has large perspex windows, leaking badly. We have rebedded the worst one on Arboseal, easy to use and worked perfectly. On the Sadler we have rebedded our framed windows countless times using Sikaflex, usually successful but with a couple of failures and a lot more trouble.

 

[Mistroma]

+1 For Arbosil, can't remember the correct ID number though.

 

[PCUK]

SIlicone is also generally used as it doesn't go as hard as Sikaflex and allows the perspex to expand and contract without cracking.

 

[TSB240]

This is what mine look like ........

View attachment 29242

So a one-piece polycarbonate / Perspex / glass (slight curve so not a good idea) cut and drilled using the removed one as a template.

View attachment 29243

When removing the current one(s), get a handful of new interscrews (as the old ones will probably break on removal) ........

View attachment 29244

Then it looks like it would be sikaflex (291 ??) then new window then more sikaflex then frame then interscrews then tighten all up ?.

I have seen references to sealing tape - would anyone have a link to this stuff, and is it to be used on the boat/window AND window/frame interfaces ?.

It seems a pretty straightforward job, unless I have missed something.

Then again don't they all.....

Thanks for the advice.

It is much easier not using messy sealants go for double sided sealing tape.

http://hadlo-43547-001.dsvr.co.uk/Pages/seals-bedding.html

A happy customer

I have simple plastic unframed windows attached by self tappers onto curved Fibreglass.

Double sided tape works fine just make sure you do a labarynth join.

They will provide advice for best product.

3 years and counting no leaks.

Need to make sure you have clearance holes for screws.

Steve

 

[CPD]

Thanks Steve and others.

Steve, what exactly do you mean by a labarynth joint ?

It is much easier not using messy sealants go for double sided sealing tape.

http://hadlo-43547-001.dsvr.co.uk/Pages/seals-bedding.html

A happy customer

I have simple plastic unframed windows attached by self tappers onto curved Fibreglass.

Double sided tape works fine just make sure you do a labarynth join.

They will provide advice for best product.

3 years and counting no leaks.

Need to make sure you have clearance holes for screws.

Steve

 

[TSB240]

Click on link,click on downloads, click on fitting acrylic windows with scapa 3507.

Robert is a relative.

 

[ianj99]

I used caravan mastic sealant - non setting, easy to remove with white spirit and no leaks from the wheelhouse front windows for over 2 years. (cheap as well!)

 

[aitchem]

I don't like the interscrews idea.
Pictures of my new windows here
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?312163-Interscrews-eradicated

 

[michael_w]

I tried the Arbosil stuff and it didn't work; couldn't cope with the tropics, Sikaflex 295 UV did.

 

[CPD]

Click on link,click on downloads, click on fitting acrylic windows with scapa 3507.

Robert is a relative.

I have a new uncle .

Many thanks - just what I was looking for.

 

[GrahamM376]

+1 For Arbosil, can't remember the correct ID number though.

Arbo 1096