Is it best to lead a preventer back to a block/winch/clutch or will an cleat suffice

[Oscarpop]

Off he back of my previous post about well set up, permanently rigged preventers, I am trying to now ascertain whether to use a clutch placed aft on deck , then back to a winch. Or whether a figure of 8 around a cleat will be better.

Pros for the clutch route: can then unload the preventer using a winch.
Cons. 14 holes drilled in deck and the expense.

Views?

 

[laika]

I use a cleat. I think I could undo it quickly enough under load though I've never actually needed to as I don't tend to use a preventer when I might need to tack quickly

 

[pyrojames]

I have only ever used a cleat. A round turn and 8s mean you can unload under load. I usually let the main out a long way, made off the preventer and the. Brought the main sheet in to tension it all. Never had any problems until we ran too long and rolled the boom into the sea. The preventer broke at that point!

 

[alant]

Off he back of my previous post about well set up, permanently rigged preventers, I am trying to now ascertain whether to use a clutch placed aft on deck , then back to a winch. Or whether a figure of 8 around a cleat will be better.

Pros for the clutch route: can then unload the preventer using a winch.
Cons. 14 holes drilled in deck and the expense.

Views?

If you have a suitable cleat, use it, but no locking hitches pls.

 

[vyv_cox]

I take mine from the boom to the midships cleat acting as a turning block. From there back to a cleat on the coachroof.

 

[Toutvabien]

I think that it depends on how big your boat is and where you are using the preventer, up and down the river it probably is fine either way. However on a serious offshore passage, where you may well be running downwind in strong breezes overnight, then I would definitely want the preventer coming through a turning block on deck and back to the cockpit to avoid unnecessary trips to the foredeck in marginal conditions,

 

[laika]

I was taking the "turning block" as read. Actually I loop mine round the forward cleat then back to a (smaller) cleat on the (centre) cockpit combing. I assumed (perhaps wrongly?) the question was about cleat near the cockpit vs. clutch/winch.

 

[Minchsailor]

A block near the bows on the toerail, then back to a cleat. The secret is to tie it down tight, with no shock loads.

 

[KellysEye]

We used cleats it's easiest thing to release.

 

[bedouin]

Another vote for cleat.

Clutches can be hard to release under load and when they do they can let go with a bang. Cleats can be always be released under load and can be eased without being released entirely.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

From the boom end to a snatch block at the bow (attached to the fairlead hole in the gunwale) then back down the deck to a winch on the aft cabin coach roof. On other boats I have used a cleat both at the bow to the beam, or bow to a stern cleat with no issues.

 

[typhoonNige]

We run the preventer through a block and back to a cockpit halliard winch (self tailing) where it stays. This allows easy tensioning and also makes gybing fairly straightforward. It can also be released quickly if required. It works well for us.

 

[LadyInBed]

I run my preventer from the end of the boom, forward through the U in the cap shroud base then back to the free winch.

 

[sailorman]

A block near the bows on the toerail, then back to a cleat. The secret is to tie it down tight, with no shock loads.

in use a "handy billy" to the toerail

 

[dunedin]

From end of boom, through hole in centre of bow mooring cleat then back to stern mooring cleat. All robust and no extra gear. The rope length also gives a degree of shock absorption
On our boat the stern cleats are easily accessible from the cockpit so not an issue releasing if necessary at night
(And I tested this, by hitting the wrong button on the autopilot in the dark - turning neatly hard to starboard and gybing. But that is why we use gybe preventers to ensure oops doesn't turn into a disaster)

 

[temptress]

I have only ever used a cleat. A round turn and 8s mean you can unload under load. I usually let the main out a long way, made off the preventer and the. Brought the main sheet in to tension it all. Never had any problems until we ran too long and rolled the boom into the sea. The preventer broke at that point!

That's how we do it. I have used this method on boats from 20ft to 60ft..... (current boat 47ft). OXO on cleat can be eased under load.

 

[doug748]

Mine go through a clutch. If I get worried I take an additional turn round a cleat.


Size matters.

Always, in all suggestions, questions and answers. Some people here have Silhouettes some 45 footers.

 

[bugs]

I'd consider a boom brake. Having cocked up my preventer through stupidity resulting in a broken boom!
Dissipates the energy slowly when the accidental gybe happens and allows you to gybe back