Is 10 hp. too big?

buntline

buntline

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I am tempted to fit a 10hp Nanni 2.4H,( a friend has a re-con. one going cheap) into my 16ft trailer sailer that I am restoring... Make unknown... The boat is GRP,and sound... New bilge keel's fitted...Hull has a full length prominent moulded keel, makeing sterngear fitting easier.

Any advise woul be welcome ?

AsBo.
 
well the price is right so go for it
buntline said:
I am tempted to fit a 10hp Nanni 2.4H,( a friend has a re-con. one going cheap) into my 16ft trailer sailer that I am restoring... Make unknown... The boat is GRP,and sound... New bilge keel's fitted...Hull has a full length prominent moulded keel, makeing sterngear fitting easier.

Any advise woul be welcome ?

AsBo.
Click to expand...
 
Well these marine diesels usually fine at low revs, so assuming the prop is chosen sensibly there should be no difficulty with controllabilty at low speeds. And it is not outrageously over-powered, so fuel consumption should not be an issue.

But what about weight, particularly once you have the fuel tank and other necessary gubbins. Chances are the boat was designed for a small outboard on the stern, will a bigger heavier engine like this, further forward in the boat, totally mess up the trim? And size, will it intrude hugely into the cabin?

And what does it do for practicality as a trailer sailer, assuming you plan to use like that? Does the towing weight become excessive for the vehicle/trailer, does the change in weight distribuition cause you a problem?


Regards,

Rob
 
16 foot trailer sailer

this is a crazy plan

slap an outboard on the back and go sailing

think of the drag from the prop, the extra weight getting it onto and off the water, the engine beds, lining up the drive shaft, fitting a tank, controls, the smell of diesel

and at the end you will have a boat that no-one would want to buy

madness

Dylan
 
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Such installation would mean about 100 kg + fuel... Provided you thing the boat can take it - why not. I knew a boat - some 18', light trailered cabin cruiser, (centreboard, no ballast) with heavier engine, twice heavier.
So possible.
But is it sensible? Depends on boat.
What boat (exactly may not be known, but is she full bodied displacement kind or lightweight hull shape), where the engine will go? Should be placed in stiff place of hull, moulded longkeel sounds good, but make the stringers for engine longer than seem necessary, just to be sure.
If it will be placed aft, say under cockpit - has she enough buoyancy at stern? On boat that already drags her stern down with few people in cockpit may be risky.
 
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buntline said:
How dose one post snaps?

I see from List below that IMG code is on, but when page is opend??????
Click to expand...

Use the insert image tool in the formatting tool bar,

You can upload a picture from your own computer and it will appear as a clickable thumbnail or using a URL if the picture is on another site but uncheck the tick box below the entry box for the URL

Picture from the Nanni website:
N2.10-200.png
 
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Thank's Vic, I do have a print out of said data of Nanni, and have satisfied myself, technically,that (engine weight,position,prop installation etc.) is doable.Though weight/size of engine+fuel+battery etc. Has made me think if it's a tug i'm building.

I have even come to the conclusion, that due to the offset hatch/cabin access,(alowing easyer access around an engine?)including offset cockpit,ie,wider seat's to st'bd.than port, and evidence of a small pluged hole in moulded keel's aft face,which line's up with my proposed engine coupling, at aprox 12deg.tilt, have all spured me on to thinking the hull was made with an inboard in mined. Or maybe the builder could'nt read a rule?

What is at stake here is if I do install, do I turn a, hopefully, nice little sailer, into a slugish drifter. After all, Sailing is a must ,A smelly diesel,no matter how fast, is not .I expect to be staying onboard quite a bit.
 
There would be plenty of people who need to replace a tired inboard and would snatch up your diesel. I'm with Dylan- Stick to a small outboard- 3.5 hp is more than enough, light, easy to maintain, fits in the boot of your car when trailering, tilt up when sailing so no drag, no leaking stuffing box, etc etc...
 
If your boat goes back to the 60s or 70s then it is quite possible that an inboard was - or could be - fitted. However it would have been a petrol such as a Watermota Shrimp or a 1.5hp Stuart Turner which are much smaller and lighter than a modern diesel. Few people fitted such things as they were unreliable and expensive compared with sticking a Seagull on the back. As already suggested a 3.5 or hp outboard is a much better solution. The Nanni will sell very easily as a new one is over £3k. Boats and Outboards and the phone will start ringing as soon as the ad is on line.
 
I think it depends whether you intend to do a lot of motoring.
I used to have an Impala, many of those were converted mostly because motoring across the channel means a lot of petrol with an outboard.
They sometimes motored back after races for work on monday.
It was not nice to motor, very noisy, if I were doing it I would want a flex coupling and soft engine mounts etc to avoid it being like a cement mixer in the cabin.
For my style of sailing, an outboard would be fine, I like to get the sails up ASAP.
But if you are maybe going to use the boat on the river, it might be different for you.
BTW I would want a folding prop, a small boat will really suffer from a 10HP prop.
You would be able to tow things for sure!
All IMHO.
 
Someone here (was it SaltyJohn?) bought a boat of about 25 feet some while back, it may have been a Sadler and it had a petrol engine in it. A 10HP Nanni might be perfect for that.
 
HPIMWarthog.jpg
I thank all for your input.... Will stick to my plan A, that is to get "serena" up, and sailing, dandy like, take a bag of ballast,shift it arround a bit,and see what hapens.

I hope I have uploaded snap of "Serena" ok. This pic. is as it was when I first bougt her.
 
Looking at the photo of the original trailer, I would suggest you also check the weight rating of the axle, bearings and tyres, as an extra 100 kg or so could put you over the limit. Then there is the rules and regs for trailer brakes and the limitations of any tow vehicle.

To add to the constraints, check out the installation dimensions of a similar model -http://www.nannidiesel.com.au/Marine-Engine/Shaft/N2-10.html. You will see there are minimum heights for anti-syphon loops, and you may not have enough height for these loops, which are 50cm above the water line. Keep in mind, it has to be the waterline when the boat is loaded with motor, crew, and whatever.
 
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